Tightmopedman9

I've been thinking about a pair of Fostex FE166En 6.5" full range drivers in a backloaded horn enclosure. Any thoughts?

So, after almost 2 months of being away from my baby I finally got back! I've only managed to put 300 miles on the engine so far so I've been keeping the boost limited to 20psi with moderately slow spoolup. I installed an Ostrich, I can't believe it took me this long to do it... I used the bottom half of the Ostrich case and threw away the top which allowed me to rivet the whole shebang to the case and still allow it to close. I plan on changing the oil at 350 miles, at which point I'll start turning up the boost.

He has an EEPROM simulator. Therefore he can make changes on the fly with the car running. So yes.

Was the problem that you were hitting different load cells than what you hit on the street?

Wowza. That ain't right.

I love how at 22psi and 7020RPMs your fuel injectors are only at 67% DC. Why is it that you don't want to try out E85, is it because there is no stations close by?

I just did the standard bleed procedure, moving from lock to lock and holding at each limit position for a few seconds. I had just mentioned that it was groaning because the process took longer than it usually does. Took a few separate tries to get all the air out.

COP! Yeah! It really does improve the idle quite a bit. I used an old TCU harness with an ampseal connector from the ECU and re-used the wiring for the old transmission plug. Wiring isn't loomed yet, but when I'm done it'll look 100% stock. Also, I found a bolt on adjustable FPR. I'm now running 4 bar base fuel pressure, and wondering what sort of maximal fuel pressure the stock lines will handle. I'll put the full details in a separate topic.

Fixed the groaning and headlight, bled the power steering system and buttoned up some other odds and ends. I also smoke tested the intake and found one small leak. I've been having a problem with fueling though. It appears my FPR is no longer operating at 4 bar as tested by two separate fuel pressure gauges. I have a replacement coming tomorrow. I haven't been able to really get into boost since my AFRs are staying too lean for comfort. I'm hoping it is related to the FPR. Anyways I have some pictures left over from the build I thought I'd share Clean pan! A little trick for those filing rings, use a piston with an old 2nd compression ring in the oil groove. Super easy to get your rings fairly deep in the bore and perfectly straight. I filed my rings to .019" and .022". I find that a bit of electrical tape makes it easy to get the rods in the bore without scratching the walls. The real Volvo tool is so much better than the E-bay redbox crap! I'm using a 6 puck Clutch Net clutch, compliments of Boxpin. I can't comment on its power holding ability, but I will say it drives basically like stock. Although, I get terrbile clutch rattle when the clutch is not depressed and cold. Also, I never had the flywheel balanced after I had it lightened, I took it to get lightened and based on the amount of material that was taken out, it looks like it was quite unbalanced. I elected to use ARP ultra torque lube on all torque critical fastners, including my head bolts. I made $50 with this little metal yard run: Got rods? I had a little mishap with my main PCV box. I used worm clamps and didn't properly seat the fitting. Due to this the hose ruptured and I was losing quite a bit of oil. An hour later and I could see the carnage. Two oetiker clams later... I'm leaving on Saturday night, by then I hope to have my fueling figured out and my COP system implemented. I'd like to break 25psi before I leave.

Well, I guess it is possible to install the cam wheel 180º out of phase. I took my cam sensor off and realized that the trigger wheel fits flush in the cam in two positions. I thought I had tested this in the past and found that it was keyed to a specific orientation, but I guess not. Anyways, the car now runs! The engine feels great, but my steering rack is moaning and groaning, the steering is creaking, the tailgate is rattling like hell, the pads are dragging, only one headlight works and over 1 psi of boost the AFRs drop below 10. Ahhh, the joys of modifying a car. I have a bunch of pictures I'll throw up tomorrow.

Ehhh... Ill just rent one. The bummer is that I'm leaving the country for two months in 3 days. Id like to get it running before then so i can have someone drive it once a week.

I just looked through my old pictures and from 2 different engines, with the same gauge i got 110psi, so the gauge is most likely wrong.

Double checked timing and it was fine. Starting fluid didn't do anything. I'm going to try another ECU tomorrow.

100psi on a freshly rebuilt cold engine, I consider that pretty good numbers. Anyways, my gauge might be off, it's read ~110psi on every previous engine I've used it on. I'm running gasoline. I timed it using the genuine Volvo tool and the normal VVT timing procedure. However, when I was tightening the pressure plate bolts I rotated the engine about 15º clockwise (as viewed from the crank) so I may have put a little slack in the VVTs and messed up the timing. Although I rechecked timing right before the engine went in and it was the same as how I had set it. I'll check timing again. I'm going to try some starting fluid and spray it into the IAC junction right before the throttle plate, we'll see if that gets her going.

Gas comes out of the rail at the normal velocity, based on when the car was running in the past. Vacuum line to FPR is hooked up. I re-ran an XRAM dump and the only problem is the TMOT error. I ran logging while trying to start and the coolant temp was at 30ºC which is about the ambient temp. So not sure why I have the error. Conventional ignition now, I didn't want to switch to COP until I had the car running as it had been before. I think I'll grab another ECU and try that.

Ran a compression test and got 100 psi on all cylinders. I have spark at all cylinders. When I pull the plugs I can smell gas in the cylinders. I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in it and didn't change anything. I coasted down a 1/8mile in second gear and it didn't catch. I'm really out of ideas here.

Haha, I re-wrapped the entire wiring harness and must have moved around the exit points a bit. Unfortunately, the rest of my ECUs are 45 minutes away, so I can't swap in another quickly. With that said, I've only ever killed 1 ECU. I think they're amazing robust so I'm not sure the ECU is dying. In other news, it's so close to running. It catches for a cylinder or two, but just won't start. Fuel and spark check out.

What fixed it after that?

CLT as in coolant level? I didn't have any coolant in the car just now, as soon as it started I was planning on backing it out of the garage and running a garden hose through the system. However, I just considered that not having the extra thermal capacity of the water in the block may cause warping even from running for less than 30 seconds. Better safe then sorry, I just filled it up with some tap water for time being.

The cam sensor and IAC were swapped. Fixed it and tried to start her again. Almost caught a few times, but I didn't want to flood the cylinders so I popped the plugs and I'm going to let them air out tonight. I'll throw a little 0W oil in the cylinders tomorrow and try again.

xerflg4.6 error secondary air valve (power amplifier) xerflg6.2 speed error signal generator xerflg6.5 error LMM / HLM / HFM xerflg7.0 error TMOT Damn, there's a laundry list of errors. Not sure what 'speed signal generator is' but I think I may have switched my IAC and camshaft sensor. I'll check the wire colors... Not sure what's up with the MAF, and I guess I have a problem with the coolant temp sensor, or something related. (TMOT = coolant temp)

After two 13 hour days I was able to get my long block without pistons assembled and in the car. Unfortunately, it won't start. The cooling fan is staying on as soon as I switch on the key, and won't turn off until I pull out the ECU. I tried to crank it for 15 or so seconds and it didn't catch; I think the problem with the cooling fan is related to an ECU hardware/software fault, so I didn't want to crank the engine possibly getting excess fuel in the cylinders. I'm going to run an XRAM dump and then go to sleep. Hopefully, I can kiss the minivan goodbye tomorrow!

It's been a while, but about a week ago I started tearing back into the car. This time, I'm committed to doing things right so I can have a reliable 400whp+ vehicle that will last for many years of daily driven abuse. That means properly measuring, cleaning and tolerancing combined with copious amounts of research. I picked up a fresh 2.3L from the local Volvo shop for $150. Based on the block serial it appears to be pre-1999, however it still has the crank windows. It has 139.5mm rods, old school pistons and the heavier crank. I'll be using the same 2005 head that has been on all of these engines. I picked up fresh rods, and had them checked by a machine shop. Although both ends were round, the big ends were .0003" under and the small end were .0002" undersized. Both ends were opened up to spec and the wrist pins were polished. I decided to go with ARP bolts, not so much because I questioned the quality of the CX bolts (which I did), but because ARP actually had torque specifications for their bolts. Based on the suspect wear I saw on the Glyco sputters I decided to go with OEM rod bearings this time. You can see some gouges from the previous spun bearing, but the horizontal banding where the sputter coating came off is what worries me. I was disappointed to see that the OEM bearings are standard bi-metal, when I was under the impression they would be tri-metal sputter bearings. The PN is the same for both the cap and rod side. Knowing this, I would have just gone with either King or Toga simply for the price savings. By the way, he bearings I've pulled from the most recent 2.3 blocks were sputter tri-metal. In order to make sure the crank was in good condition I picked up a set of Mitutoyo dial gauge micrometers. I was also lent a 4 inch micrometer and a bore gauge by MattWebb. Thanks buddy! I measured the cylinders and was within spec for taper and roundness on every cylinder. One cylinder was .0003" tapered (max spec. is .0004") I ball honed the cylinders and am happy with the angle of the cross hatch. A few day of soaking in brake cleaner didn't do much, but when I hit them with a bottle of 'LA's Totally Awesome!' from the dollar store the carbon came right off. Now I'm just waiting on piston rings. I decided to go with Hastings rings, which were actually the first thing I ordered. However, I got them through Amazon and TBH, I don't think they have their lines of supply down right with Hastings and I wouldn't have ever gotten them. I just placed an order through a local Hastings rep today and they'll be in on Wednesday. Barring any unforeseen problems she should be running by late Thursday night.

That's what I thought at first, but you can clearly see the car was already converted to a coupe. I would assumed the mid-engine conversion happened at the same time.