Tightmopedman9

I hate how the engine always rotates when using the harbor freight support straight across the engine. That's a good idea for the center support. Where'd you get it?

Why not use the ACT disc? That's what I used and it is a much beefier disc than the SD693. 

Same thing on my injectors, I lowered my rail about 1/4" with new stand offs.

19 hours ago, cruzer555 said:

Nice build! Hows that clutch setup holding up? Considering doing the same to my S60R... Oh and how much did the machine shop charge to re-pin for the 707?

Its a good setup. Its never slipped and since it's a full face organic it is easy to drive and has a wide engagement point. The pedal is really stiff though.

I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.

10 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

Those are some tall tires! It seems you aren't running fender liners - right? I'd imagine tritons (7.5" wide and a heavy wheel) with those tires ride much different than 17" TDRs...

I don't want to make driving the car a chore so I didn't go for super skinny tires. Their a good enough compromise. 

I was on 215's with the TDRs, so the grip is more, but the handling characteristics feel about the same. 

The DW900 injectors I'm using sit just a touch deeper in the fuel rail than the stock injectors, so the o-ring didn't fully seat in the manifold. I cut the stock mounting tabs off and welded some new ones to drop it about 1/4". Not exactly show car quality, but it was free and took me 15 minutes...

On the right is the injector o-ring before lowering the rail, on the left is after. 

I also got some new wheels.

Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250. They're not the most aggressive street tire, but the ride is comfortable, the slip predictable and the grip good, and for the price I couldn't say no.

I had to decommission my TDRs, which was unfortunate since I spent 15+ hours prepping and fixing them, and $180 on paint. I realized every wheel had a significant hop in it, even the wheel which I had only been running for 1 year and had never curbed. Also, I found 3 cracks on the inner rim on one wheel after painting and had already fixed two cracked spokes on another, only for them to re-break just a week after putting them on. I guess that's the price you pay for running 17lb wheels... I'm going to try and re-fix the spokes and keep them for some track days. 

Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year. 

Last time I put the valve cover back together it was after taking it off 4 times in the span of a week and I didn't do the best job sealing it up, not to mention I used Permatex's anaerobic sealant (which I haven't had good luck with even when taking my time). I was losing about a quart every 800 miles, so I decided to take it back apart, do it right, and while I was in there add some free power.

I measured 2 sets of cams from some heads I had in the shop and measured their lift.

Intake - 30637410 - 8.38mm, 259°

Exhaust - 8642712 - 9.04mm, 291°

Duration was measured at .005", which I know isn't a standard anyone uses, so just take the measurements for the sake of comparison. One set was from an '04 R, the other from an '05 R and they turned out to be identical. 

I was hoping that the cams in my head were less aggressive, being that the head was originally from an '05 LPT engine, but they turned out to be the same. 

Not wanting to seal up the valve cover without doing anything performance related I decided to swap out my intake cam for an exhaust cam. In order to time the cam correctly I fabricated a new cam locking tool which would hold both cams in the same relative position to the Volvo 'base' position. I measured the peak lift on the intake cam relative to the base position for the tool and then rotated the exhaust cam to the same location and welded up a new locking tool. 

On the left is the angle from the base position to maximum lift on the intake cam, on the right is the exhaust cam in the intake cam's base position using the cam locking tool.

Luckily my cam locking tool cam with two additional pieces that fit into the back of the cams, so I just welded one onto some 1/2" steel plate at the correct angle.

Since I'm also controlling the VVT solenoids with M4.4 I swapped an intake VVT cam hub onto the exhaust cam. I measured the exhaust VVT hub as having 16.8º of range and the intake VVT hub at 28.3º. The VVT unit only advances the cam from its' base position, and knowing that I could now advance both cams almost 30º I decided to add 8º more static retard to the cams. With this much retard the engine had almost 0 compression until the VVT units pumped up. After some experimenting I decided that this was too much retard and wan't producing any more power so I set them back to their normal base position. 

At idle I fully advance both cams and the car idles very smoothly. I can actually reduce the idle speed to 700RPM without much degradation in idle quality as well. 

Based on the calibrated butt dyno V1.03 I measured a 18.437298445WHP increase in power from the cam and VVT hub swap. Seriously though, the difference was noticeable. 

My Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump died on me, which may have been due to the fuel filter element I was using. The fuel filter I bought only has cellulose filter media available which is not compatible with E85, so the filter had become very clogged, which I think led to the early demise of the pump. I'm currently looking for a 10 micron stainless element fuel filter, but haven't had much luck. I replaced the Aermotive with a Walbro 460LPH in tank and redid the wiring to 12AWG. I also redid the fuel pump wiring entry into the tank with a purpose made fuel cell bulkhead fitting. 

I used a 6 pin Deutsch DT series connector and split the power wires into four at the connector to negate any contact resistance. I know it was overkill, but I had a problem with melting the wiring on the Aeromotive and I didn't want to deal with that again.

I'm working on adding the SAS pump to my crankcase breather system, turning on above a set load threshold and sucking through the catch can. I'm not sure it will do anything beneficial, but it won't take much work to implement so I figured why not.

Next up is an intake manifold which I should be done fabricating in a week or so. 

'V40 1K'

Love it!

any details on that hose connector? Did you weld it or just press fit?

Innovate's MTX-L gauge is shit. It was poorly engineered in many ways, one of them being that they pulse the heater circuit too slowly, causing large temperature swings of the sensing element, leading to premature failure.

The new AEM X-series are worlds better, not in terms of response time and accuracy, but also sensor life. 

Which pump is that?

Just re do the lines, the stock 5/16" lines won't cut it with the 7064

Not extremely happy about the dyno results considering the condition of the car and the modification list. However, I did make some adjustments to the boost and ignition shortly after the dyno session that would I think would have netted an additional ~10WHP and 10WTQ. 

12 hours ago, dougy said:

with what turbo is that ?  

and headers? or r mani? 

Dougy, why don't you just read my sig? 

EFR7064, R manifold

6 hours ago, apeacock said:

3.5 or 4" MAF with this?  Currently going with 3.5 based on what's been recommended.  

 

1300kg would be awesome, I want to say that's abput where Steve is at with his.  

4" MAF, I'm at 1700kg/hr which is 4.19V. 

When I had a 20G I used that same Jaguar box and fit the largest filter I could in there, and it was still quite a small filter. I wouldn't recommend it...

The filter I use is the AEM 21-3059DK which is 6.5" in diameter and 9" long. I think that filter is almost the same size as the Jag canister itself. Granted I don't have a pre-turbo pressure sensor, but I wouldn't want to use any smaller of an air filter.

Yes, much better. Those PLX devices are pieces of crap. 

Have you found an AFR target of 12.3 to be best for power, or just a good middle road for conservative fueling? I aim for 12.4 on my setup currently. 

18 hours ago, apeacock said:

Is there any trick to moving the cable's or the tray? My clutch line is properly routed through the air tray holder. I can't remember off hand if it comes out without any fuss. 

In talking with Hussein about how his was setup, I'm considering trying my hand at making an intake setup to rejoin it with the air box I used to have. Though maybe it really won't make any difference?  

Biggest concern with that is if the aluminum intake piping needs to be welded or can it just be brazed together? I'm thinking this would be a great project for this winter. 

Of course! Goes faster that way anyways! I'm normally just making grammatical errors and ranting on. I use the thread to both show the work and kind of make a journal for myself. 

I don't run a battery tray in the bay, I used a simple rubber cushinon steel screw on clamp and just secured it to the side of the engine bay using an existing tapped hole/nut.

You could braze AL, but this is a car... and it would look like shit. I can make you a copy of my intake setup if you want. 

On 7/15/2016 at 1:37 PM, JaredR1 said:

If I'm using a dual VVT RN engine, wouldn't that already have the ME7 cam wheels?  Getting rid of the distributor is no problem; I'm planning on using your setup for that.  (I'd want go CoP even without this project...love the smooth idle in my dad's '99)

Good thought on the load signal.

I wasn't talking about physically having the sensors on the engine, but rather dealing with the fact that the output from the ME7 cam wheel/sensor ≠ the output from the stock cam wheel.

The ME7 cam wheel has three unequal length notches, which allows the ECU to determine where the cam is within a fine range (I'm not exactly sure the exact resolution, but I think it is accurate to 1º). The M4.3/M4.4 cam wheel only has one notch, 180º in length. If you built a VVT circuit you would need to emulate this binary signal from the ME7 wheel.

You might be able to do VVT control with the binary M4.X wheel, but I think control would be limited quite a bit in resolution. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBOSMART-TS-0203-1261-BPV-Kompact-re-circ-Borg-Warner-Volvo-Porsche997-KKK-EFR-/281852736024?hash=item419fbb7218:g:cmYAAOSwTZ1XnM4M&vxp=mtr

I got mine for 134 three months ago, maybe you can do best offer and get the same price.

Nice, that fitting looks very low profile. Are you going with the dual port wastegate and 4 port solenoid?

I replaced the CBV on mine with the turbo smart as well; it didn't do anything for performance but the stock CBV made this super annoying (I thought) whine at light throttle.

He is using a precision, but Steveo and Ryan Carey are using a 7064. 

I welded a 3/4"ID drain above the oil level on a pan for Junies (modman), that worked well.

For the VVT controller, remember that you'll need to retrofit the multiphase cam wheel from ME7 on both cams. To do this you will have to get rid of the distributor and emulate the stock cam signal. Use the load output signal originally designed for output to the auto trans, I think it would be more suitable than tapping into the MAF. 

Basic cam control is possible, send me an email and I'll tell you about it.