NEU
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Everything posted by NEU
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How does the cutout work? Were you having issues before?
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Was wondering if this was coming together before Carlisle.
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In for another decade of Carlisle... And Caravan from NoVa... Anyone want to tag along?
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They are all the same... I have one left over from my 240 that's the same as my v70R. Same design same gasket... Personally I'd run the Super Stant cause its a better design but IDK if they come in 82.
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Stant 13918 180/82 temp thermostat
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In my folks old '71 w108 Mercedes, that I restored dad in High School. I ran 80/100w H4 and 100w H1 e-Code quad headlights with 100w h3 fogs. I was able to run both high and low beam in the H4s too, a total of 760 watts! That was the best lighting I EVER had with Halogen... I think your right high beams are H9 some places say it's 9005. The lows are H11. I have some HID bulbs and they have h11/8/9 on them so they are all kinda interchangeable. Like you show in your pic the center pin is the biggest difference and the base is slightly different but they will work. I have a stash of leftover bulbs halogen and HID from the vR as I upgrade to the Jewels so I've just grab what ever I need from them in a pinch. Have you upgrade any of the exterior or interior bulbs to LED? I did my running lights in the headlights (inner most light by the grill and amber ones in the outer corners). I also did the licenses which are a oh yeah! to do! That connector falls apart! I saw someone makes a complete lens LED replacement but I managed to get the connector to work. Interior lights I've done the dome front and rear but the ones I used for the fronts are a bit too bright and blinding at night, but so crisp and white, I might find some dimmer LEDs. I kept the map light as is so I can use that if I need a dim light while driving I thought about replacing those with red. I need to replace bulb for the HVAC temp control as ones burned out and would like to replace all the dash lights to red LED like I did on the vR.
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Mine are the Hella Optilux Extreme Yellow XY H11 55w I got from Pepboys, they were on sale for $19 with a web coupon. They are more orange (amber) than yellow. I had a set of cheap h8 35w yellow bulbs off Amazon that had a better color but the output wasn't nearly as bright as the h11. But one blew within 2 months... I have a set of yellow 100w h11 that I was going to put in the high beams, but I'm afraid they'll melt something... Have you had anyone high beam you for having 65w? I haven't had anyone complain about my upgraded fogs yet... And I drive with them on all the time.
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Never had an issue with the vR and HID ballast or bulbs in the 7-8 years I've run them and my headlight wipers worked. I do notice that my current ones on the cR do have a bit of warm up time now with it being cold, but by the time the car is warmed up it's not an issue. I do a lot of early morning and night driving and need the extra light with my "old eyes". I just prefer the crisp light output of the HID @ 5k. Whether it was the stock p80 lens, e-code, jewels or the stock c30 projectors. Halogens are just are too dim. And the cR stock 35w fogs was a joke too. Nice touch with the relay remembering that you had your fogs on. That would be nice if it was that way stock like on the p80. I'd prefer that over having them on with low beam.
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Thanks for the P/N I'll ask my friend that runs a Volvo service dept. if he can get his hands on it, but like I said I doubt we can in the US. And I'm very aware of the PWM voltage. I was blowing them on a weekly basis for the headlights and fogs till I got Canbus canceler/ Anti flicker modules for the headlight HID. Haven't blown one since I added them 5months ago.
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I'm not a big fan of these new electronics too. Had issues with mine. Thought it was a DIM, then CEM had them both sent to Xemodex and it came back fine, turned out to be a bad power steering controller unit. It was causing the car to stall and all kinds of fault codes that were unrelated. Dealer thought it was a bad ECU, replaced that and still had issues. Then finally traced it to the power steering. Thankfully they didn't charge me for the ECU. This car def has it's advantages over the p80, but traction in the snow is not one of them. I tried to find the software to have fogs on while my high beams were on but can't find it. I'm sure some of the Euros could tell me it if I dug deep enough, we probably can't get it here... I also had my DRL disabled after I added 55w HIDs. I need to shut my headlights off when I enter my bases checkpoint. Its odd Volvo lets the fogs stay on when you shut the headlights off to parking lights... I upgraded mine fog light bulbs from the 35w h8 to 55w h11. Had HID in for a bit but keep killing the ballasts and when I switch the high beams on and off I'd notice they'd take a bit to come up in brightness so halogen was a much better solution. And you can get the h11 in amber much easier and cheaper then the h8... Interesting about The Belgium light mods. Not sure I dig the twin rear fogs. That always irked me as others might think it's brakes. But that could be a good thing... LOL!
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Was never in the Navy I work for them now... And yes I still get sea sick... Glad my job is mostly on the land. Dramamine does nothing for me, sea sickness patch (scopolamine) works but I get super dopey on it, it's the "truth serum" drug you would see in old movies. The only thing that works in the sea sickness watch, it's basically a tens unit on your wrist and "shocks" you nerves in your wrist to keep you from puking... I usually keep in at 1-2 on normal rides, but the sea state 6 I had it at 5! it would make my hand ball up out of my control... I use to play a game "Who can take it at 5" and nobody make it past 3 without dropping it... Mighty Servant 3 sunk and they salvaged it (the first photo I posted of it under water) cause they are so expensive to rebuild, and all it needs is s good cleaning and partial rebuild. The second post where the Mighty Servant 1 is partially under water is how they load, is submerges to load cargo, the floats it up. There are some videos on YouTube to show how they work.
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Yep, they are... They submerge to load payload. Oil rigs, ships, etc... I was part of a series of tests were we used them to load and unload Navy supply ships using LCACs (bottom two pix). And don't get me started on sea sickness! I've gotten sick in the Gulf of Mexico, off the coast of Norfolk, Key West, Panama City, Puget Sound, San Diego and the English Channel off of Normandy France... The worst was Normandy, our port was landlocked at low tide and I was stuck out there for 12hrs. It was so bad I puked everything out of my stomach and couldn't see straight and the next day I was still dizzy. I was shooting video and looking thru my view finder most of that day before it started, worst part about it I was on video joking about it before it happened...
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I've been in a storm in the Gulf of Mexico that was sea state 6 (20ft waves) on this thing. The Mighty Servant 3 which is a heavy lift ship. It was pretty bad, I was located on the main deck in a connex box for living quarters. Folks on the upper decks had it much worse as it's 7 stories up, furniture was rolling down the hallways. I ended up spending 3 days in my bunk and I get sea sick pretty bad, but never puked! I use an electronic sea sickness watch that I had cranked up on full power for the entire time. I've been in some bad storms but this was the worst! I was compounded by the fact that the Mighty Servant 3 had sank before and they had photos of it all over the place just as a reminder that the ship was under water...
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Get it you won't regret it unless you poke it up some how... I loved the '11 XT but the ex has it now. I like that car more than my R and just as much as I do the cR... My buddies' has '03 xt, that he has the sti trans in. He had a motor built for it and blew it. 10.5:1 cr and 5lbs of boost with a big turbo on e85 before it blew, cause the company that built it did the rings wrong and wouldn't warranty the work! So it's been sitting the last couple years till he could afford to have it done again.
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Is that Elevate tune stage 2 tune and DP but still stock muffler. I see you have all the larger intercooler piping, ported intake runners installed. What about the 70mm throttle, are you running that too? Did you notice any hit in torque? I've heard the intake manifold you loose a bit of torque, they were referring to the Anembo, which seems a lot bigger. I want to make mine just a bit better but don't want to loose any of the torque. I keep thinking about a stage1 and exhaust, maybe a DP but don't want to loose MPG. I did see a slight drop since I installed Kristians turbo inlet, but that could be I'm harder on it that I was before. BTW what torque mount are you running? I've got the factory upgrade with the R but I'm considering the E-Focus or harder Powerflex insert. But I hear with the AW55 softer is less vibration.
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I thought installed the k16 and most of the goodies that you got a while ago. So what are you running on the now?
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I was looking forward to more c30 updates...
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I think the RS and ST are different when it comes to brakes suspension, I'm not 100% sure on that... (edit... Found some new info they are the same ST to RS upgrade) I was referring to the Mk3 ST, which has a revised Mk2/p1 suspension with different geometry, different axles, knuckles and bearings and used the same 320mm (12.6"). Ford has upgraded them to 332mm (13.1") I converted it wrong, it's not 336mm. You can swap the p1 to the Mk3 ST for better steering response, better caster/camber and a better bearing design. ST 12.6 to 13.1" brakes The rears upgrade is using a Volvo p3 rear 300mm rotors with a Mazda 5 bracket and you reuses the same caliper. The thing I noticed is the ST uses 271mm rears and the c30 uses 280mm, so it's a slightly bigger upgrade for the ST guys. And apparently the RS uses this similar set up (edit... Not 300mm, 302mm I must need some caffeine.) ST 300mm rear upgrade. Both these upgrades are as easy as the 302 p80 upgrade.
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I love my P1! Such an easy Volvo to mod (compared to my 245 and my p80R) with all the Mazda/Ford factory and aftermarket parts to choose from. I'm not sure how different the AWD rear suspension but my cars handling def benefited from a rear swaybar. I'm currently looking at upgrading to larger 300mm rear brakes after I install my 320mm for the fronts. The '14-15 Focus ST has a 336mm upgrade that uses the same caliper as the 320 but a different bracket, similar to the p80 302 bracket. From what I've read all the US facelifted c30 R-designs came with Midir in 7.5" wide and the 8" only came on the c70 R-design. I'm sure you all had much more options that we do. I have the Nav too, but have never used it since I got my car earlier this summer, best part about is that you get the Premium stereo system. Look forward to what you guys do next with it...
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Are you running KYB front and rear? How do you like them with the Eibachs? Are they still comfortable and how hard do you have the KYB set?
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Back in the saddle again. Rode my cheap Nashbar Alpha 5000 that I've upgraded to moustache bars, peddles and saddle only. Almost everything is stock or how the last owner left it 10+ years ago. Rode more miles on this than I ever have in the past decade. Did several rides along the Potomac and had my last ride cut short by Rolling Thunder.
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Just preventing someone from googling "tin snip porn" and getting sorely disappointed. Except for Mike.
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Tin snips and dykes are two different tools. And it's called "dikes" cause they are diagonal cutters, not lesbians.
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^ Couldn't agree more. I did the same.
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I'm going to make that my next car too. Why not just use the one in your car?
