NEU

Wagons are way better for sleeping in @ Carlisle... Plus you know where it's coming from and what's been done. Pull the trigger before the 23rd.

It's call a Flower car. I can't post the pic, but here's a NICE '59.

The gasping had me...

I got one of these found it in the junkyard. Other then the plug and play harness, it's nothing special...

Are you running an upgraded alt? I've been toying with the idea of getting a newer higher output alt, out of the later p2 cars, or seeing if there was a way of adjusting the voltage reg (like the older style alt. with the external reg.)... In my 245 I had one that I set to 14.7v.

My y22 rattles like crazy.

Sorry been busy with work travel. Howard came up with zero for both those # on his master online search at his dealership. He's got no other cars that he can cross reference them too. Poly bushings are stiffer, and my transmitt viberation and noise. But the flex less and don't deform like rubber under loads. I had a 245 with all poly suspension bushings (and other bits) and it was amazing to drive, and fairly comfortable, on a 9hr drive from DC to Indy my friend commented how nice it was. Not harsh. But the roads really depend on how much you'll like them. I love a stiff suspension car so I'm in favor of them. Also poly are easy to replace once you torched out the old oem bushings. Delrin and aluminum bushing will be noisier and transmitt a lot of vibration. My delrin subframe bushings are brutal but I love them.

I know Brandon! Will sends me these photos last week and my jaw was on the floor! Funny thing I was thinking of polishing my lower control arms.. As I told Will this info about the poly bushing Superpro as SPF2012K couldn't have tome at a better time, some of mine are dead and need to go soon. The LCA mystery bushing... 9157319 or 9157318, I'll see if Howard can track down anything with these #s. I've got used low mileage XC LCA that I'm using. Now the toerods, or trackstays, IIRC the XC bushing and AWD bushing were different cause of the XC ride height. I thought they had different bushings to account for the different range in tow. I had CJ ajustable toe rods on mine before my bushings started to go, I may add those back into the mix with new poly. Thanks Will, and keep this post updated with your progress!

I upgraded to CJ's delrin subframe mounts. I noticed handling "uncertainty" on my stock 180K bushings in high speed cornering too. I could feel the bushings give, I also noticed it under hard braking in turns and high speed dips. With delrin it goes where I point it. The word I'd use to describe the steering is "crisp". I have a lot of motor vibration but that is due to motor mounts of stiff poly or OEM mounts encased in poly caulk.

Agreed, I know zero about it, but I'd be a faster learner rather then shelling out $$$$ to folks that are not local and can't dial it in perfect. Not that I'm complaining about my Speedtuning tune, it's been great and I've had zero issues with it. Self tune would give me the abilty to upgrade without going for a retune... That's all... Have you looked into Steve-O? He's been doing custom tunes for some of thos CT guys... I have my stock ECU that I could send him to "work with..." You planning on upgrading turbo parts like CBV and WGA?

I used to get a little overboost issue when I had my 3"dp and no tune. IIRC it was inbetween shifts though, because of the lack of back pressure... So do you plan on getting a OTS tune or trying to do a self tune? Lots of stuff floating around that sounds like we'lll have that option VERY soon...

That is a sweet ride. Any plans to lower it? And what tune are you running?

My wife's previous car had dark (illegal) tint. She got a ticket from Fedreal Park Police in Va on a parkway. I said F-it will just pay it and not pull the tint. About a month later, she got a speeding ticket from Va State Police and they got her again for the tint. After that I grabbed the steamer and started pulling fistfulls of tint. I only did the sides as the rears of here car wasn't meterable. Va is a $90 fine too. IIRC they don't even give you a "fix it" ticket. We can only have 50% for the front sides, and 35% for the rears on a "car" For SUV or trucks it what every you want. On my car I've got 35% front and 20% which was legal when I was in MD but is illegal VA, but I've never gotten a ticket for it, just speeding. My Forester is 35% front and darker then 35% rear, as it came with factory dark tint so it's closer to 15-20%. And I know as of last night they only gave her a speeding ticket too. Nothing for tint...

Not in Virginia. Anything over the limit is gonna get you a ticket. Also some cheaper tint fades over time, so trying to match up a newly tinted window to an older one may look different if it's faded.

Welcome to my world.

In Maryland you don't take a "road test" it's all done in a parking lot. I believe for the quaility of our road system, that the majority of US drivers are aweful. Our standards are way too low and that makes it easy for the morans to get behind the wheel and on the roads. The fact that it varies from state to state is a joke too. It should be a standard country wide. Everyone should have to pass the same high level of tests cause they might not drive in that state excusively... I'd like to know what is the hardest and easiest state to get a licence and why. The example of Germany is perfect, they have to jump thru hurdles to get a licence. My friend in High School was a German exchange student, he got his licence in the US vs Germany casue it was easier and shocker he passed the test... It was a joke to him how easy it was compared to if he tried to get it at home. The unfortunate thing is we can't ramp up the standards as the genie is out of the bottle. But wouldn't it be nice one day to get on the hiways and not have to worry about some retard driving slow in the left hand lane? Or worry about distracted drivers, texting/on the phone/eating/putting on make up, etc. etc. Some day right??? Maybe we should just make the cars smarter since we can't make the drivers smarter...

ME-WOW!

If you are just building a bar beater, no need to drop money on it. Does it get you from point A - B? Then it's job is done. But if you want to drop $$$$ on a carbon fiber bike take you to the bars, you can worry about it being stolen while you are getting your drink on... I've got a beater that I'm building too, only $$ I'm sinking into it is new tire, tubes and grips... Everything else I've got sitting on a shelf that's been waiting to get recyled. It's heavy and old as f*uck but I'll never have to worry about someone walking off with it when I'm in the store.

Matt was so right about you...

My Rockhopper is 15", but I'm 5'6", and then it was a little on the small side, but fun to throw around. I've upgraded to a longer stem and maxed out seatpost. My Trek y22 is a small frame too. That bike might work maybe with longer stem and seatpost.

Also for new, maybe look for last years model? I know my one and only new bike (Rockhopper A1 FS Comp) I got around this time of year, previous years model and saved about $200. But that was a looong time ago.

It could I remember Jan had mentioned there were other ways he could do it, maybe he has some flash loader... Or I know Oliver at Speedtuning cloned my original ECU and tuned the clone. So it can be done if you unsolder the chip. Keep us in the loop if you find anything out.

You just have to ship him your ECU or get it cloned.

THIS!^ (fixed) And THIS!^