Johann

By advising people to pull the wastegate connection? That is really the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Then we learn a chip doesn't do anything.. Come on man, I feel sorry for you, really. If you want to prove yourself come up with some useable advice instead of these bogus remarks. To get to your level, stock T5 level? Your Supra talk simply has no place on thise forum. You could look at it as the inability to properly tune a Volvo so you go the easy way. Just buy the proven of the shelf Supra bolt on tuning parts and you are done, nothing special, totally not impressed.

Thanks. Gives a clear view of your level of tuning and understanding.. :rolleyes:

Mostly cooling issues. 19T setups with larger IC will hit 285-290 without to much effort but stock IC setups will suffer. On the street this is a different matter. Often the amount of boost reach on the street vs dyno says enough.

I think there is a topic in Showroom with pictures of a bursted AT box. Personally I think the diff's are really the weak spot for the manual. The AT's worst enemy is temperature but so far I didn't really encounter a "blown because of the tuning" AT. Some AT's simply break behind a stock engine, some do behind a tuned engine. Always easy to say it was because of the tuning.

Heat wrap the remote filter lines.. They are pretty close to the downpipe IMO.

I5 ? Naah. Looking great. :tup:

Was the line running like this? I would suggest to reroute to the outside away from the manifold. There's teflon inside the braided line. It can withstand heat but only so much.

What about the oil return? Make sure it is above the oil level in the crank pan else it will block the flow. also the diameter should at least be 14 to 16 mm (~0.55-0.63")

Some have 2... As a backup plan you can install an angled flange 13G/16T/18T/19T. The only thing you need is revised oil and water plumbing.

You can read it? --- 854T5 Swedespeed Member, I am selling a stock S60 V70 R Turbo that would bolt right up with the right flange. Let me know. --- 854T5 has access level Normal User. Profile Information Email Address » teknicktion@aol.com I think he visits VS. ;)

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=64259 Halfway the thread.. ;)

With modern CNC machinery I think it is easier than making a mould for a cast iron block... What is the problem with the Darton sleeves you think?

Can't you make a one piece/5 sleeve plus deck design to fit the original outer casting? MORE LIKE A DARTON SLEEVE BUT WITH 5 CYLINDERS INSTEAD OF ONE? (Sorry for the caps)

I think I can do 12's on a US downhill track. :rolleyes:

B)--> QUOTE(Steve B @ Aug 24 2006, 11:23 PM) ←The engine in the V70 AWD is described as a low pressure turbo. It was done specifically to keep the hp down and not stress the viscous drive coupling. I am sure Volvo did not want to ruin its reputation for longevity by producing a 300 hp wagon. You may notice a number of warnings about hopping up that particular pwr plant and it all pertains to the viscous drive coupling. That drive coupling is entirely dependent on relative tire circumferences. If the computer reads relative differences in circumferences it supplies power to the appropriate wheels to bring the reading back into tolerance. Uneven wear patterns on tires, different makes of tires among the set, or even short distances with the space saver can do quick and ugly damage to one of these units. A bad strut or shock at one of the corners would ruin a unit by trashing a tire much faster than the other three. If one tire goes bad, you buy a complete new set. I've taken nails thru sidewalls on 2 separate occasions and had to replace 2 complete sets but it's either that or 3 to 4 times that for the new coupling. But, it's also done its job just fine in the snow when called for. Steve, The R has been available as an AWD version since 1998. Both manual and AT. The first manual had the 250 bhp R engine. The later R 265 bhp. (Euro spec.) All had similar AWD setup.

Weak because they are part of a very weird driveline. The visco mid diff activates when the front and rear wheels have different speeds. When the front tires wear to much compared to the rear tires the visco is engaged slightly and will put a load on the angle gear under normal operation, lets say highway cruising. Because of this there will be a lot of heat in the angle gear and as far as I know this wasn't intended. The angle gears will start to leak and eventually run dry. With the newer models the angle gear isn't that much different but thye visco has been replaced with an electronically controleld visco which only activates when wheelspin under certain circumstances is detected. There isn't any load under normal driving. Neverteless the newer angle gears show the same leaking problems. Many angle gears on new R models have been replaced either under warranty or customer paid. In some cases twice on the same car. The other weak part is a spline ring between the angle gear and the gearbox btw. Maybe with some cooling and a solution for the leaking problem, mostly through the vent nipple, I think they will hold some longer. With the spline ring it is important that it is absolutely free of play when mounted else it will eat itself away and the metal shavings will cause the input shaft of the angle gear and the output shaft of the gearbox to be destroyed in the process.

Is this XD16 plus LC1? I read a lot of negative info on the LC1, appears to be not so reliable.

Had a V70 OEM "Sport kit" on my former V70T5 GT and it was dramatic, horrible, the biggest bogus I have ever driven. Better would have been to ship a few solid rods to replace the shocks.

Wish you all the luck with the new job Kevin!

Pull a loom and an ECU from a wrecker M4.3. Shouldn't be to hard to make it work.

Getting a bit sentimental here.. :rolleyes:

In the Netherlands if you have the plates already you can basically mod everything inside the sheet metal as long as the noise stays within the limits. Also some parts of the suspension aren't allowed to be modded, things like subframe's are officially forbidden to weld on. After the plates we only have an anual check called APK, sort of CARB, but for pre '77 vehicles the emissions aren't that strict. Basically any EFI modified pre '77 car will do 500% better than allowed when closed loop. No Kat needed also. Then there is one rule which say that 40% more than stock HP needs a recertification but no power is measured during the anual checkup.. :rolleyes:

Great car. Stance is perfect also! :tup:

Need a correct VIN number. Or Detailed images of the dash, seats and some parts of the block. For an S70R AT the difference isn't that good to see because the AT version is basically a souped up T5.

The AXX is the posters VIN is incorrect. Kibim's car is a '98 manual R. ;)