Johann

Took a while because of all the cleaning but the interior is all black now except for the roof, There was an "850 racing" sticker on the rear panel/firewall which I left in place.... Volvo used a carbon panel with embossed Volvo logo in their BTCC racer and I thought painting the sticker would somewhat mimic that idea .. Wonder if the sticker has been activated by the paint again and wants to shrink. In that case there will be a CY outline in the future.

Some progress, Decided to paint the interior satin black, No picture but halfway painted by now. Also cleaned the ex SD11 M56, And made an attempt stripping the very bad shape R bumper from lots of paint layers,

Next time machine the groove out. Plenty of material left.

It's not a T-5R. Believe it used to be a dark green GLT (NA).

A small update of what is going on at Area 34, A while ago a friend bought an old 850 rally car and dismantled it. The shell remained and the question was what to do with it. The shell is welded through and there's a roll cage in it but all other it looked like a huge mess. Still a pity to crush it so I took it over to save it from destruction. I received the car without the subframe and front suspension. Used some shelved parts to get it on it's wheels again but the rear brakes, converted to hydraulic parking brake, were sticking.. This is where a crane comes in handy, Next up was clearing the mess and removing the stickers, Which revealed a body still being in pretty good shape, Then there was the engine bay .. A bit more of a mess. Before proceeding I decided to remove everything from the car. Tried to keep the wiring intact as much as possible so a minimal loom can be put together later on. Also the dash, After cleaning and some welding to the firewall I painted the engine bay in a darker grey colour. Next up is the interior which takes a bit longer.. After removing the dash, And heater, I'm at this point at the moment, There is a lot of paint in the interior which can't be repainted because it will dissolve in new paint and start to crackle... Lot of cleaning to do. Future plans for this car are not that thrilling. A bare bones car. Engine bay will receive a 2006 B5244S engine using an older GLT header to fit the 850. Haven't decided on intake yet. The ex SD11 5 speed gearbox will be used. No fancy stuff like LSD for now. Need to source driveshafts. The car came with a dual piston boosterless brake setup with a balancer bar fabricated on the stock brake pedal but it was a sloppy setup so I removed it all and welded back in a mounting plate for a stock brake booster with master cylinder. Stock pedal box will go in. No ABS. All other a radiator and a coolant reservoir and that will basically be it. Will try to tuck the wiring as mush as possible. Interior, Driver seat. Passenger seat only on donation basis.. Minimal dash. RPM, Speed, Fuel level. All other, Stock fuel system. Stock brakes preferable 302's. Maybe try some Big Red knockoffs in the future. 17" wheels. Suspension I think will be BC-Racing. Power output estimate somewhere 170-190 HP.

​No spare tire. There's a repair kit with compressor but the tire was to far gone and blew when attempting to repair it.

​For the money I think they are awesome. Performance is somewhat better than cheap lowering springs on stock shocks. Maybe slightly crashy from time to time but less when there is a little load in the car. The durability question remains.

A week in pictures,

It rolls again,

About the JOM suspension, This is after 6 months of usage, After receiving the new DD I didn't drive SD11 that much in the last couple of months. In the last two weeks my oldest son has been using the car a couple of times until yesterday when the coolant light came on and it turned out the radiator was shot. The clutch also needed to be replaced still so I thought it was the right time to take the car apart. Decided to remove the engine and gearbox from the top instead of performing the "by the book" procedure for the simple reason that it basically doesn't take that much longer. Also noticed some oil dripping from the engine and want to add a bracket for better fixing the old style fuel lines which is easier to do with the engine out. Replacement clutch set is a Spec stage 1 with M66 spline organic friction. Should be enough for what I want. The existing 850R PP - S60R friction combo appeared to be in great shape. Guess the slip issue is mostly related to the wrong friction thickness, 9mm instead 0f 8 mm for an 850R friction plate. Also the pressure plate clamp ring is smaller compared to the S60R friction surface, Can be seen by the makings on the friction, Installed, The Spec comes with a wider clamp ring. The Spec friction is more or less the same size as the OEM S60R friction. The oil was nothing more than a couple of drops hanging from the drain plug btw.

I use grey stuff on gearbox casings. Pink stuff on engine stuff. The 12mm hex bolts need to be tightened at 25 Nm. You could stretch that to ~28 Nm and see if it helps. Often the leaking comes from badly cleaned and flattened surfaces.

Thing is, if you put the friction in backwards it will function for a short while. There was mentioning of to little stroke for the TOB which almost sounds like they installed a DM PP of SM flywheel instead of the higher SM PP. (If that is even possible.. ?? )

Hey Koen, Hoe gaat ie? Both the PTT green and the white "SD11" estate use JOM. The green car isn't registered and so far I have driven roughly 15 km with it.. The white SD11 I have been using as a daily driver for nearly 3 months and so far the suspension has done very well. Maybe a tad crude when driving with one person in the car but with a bit of load it runs nice and is also pretty capable. Of course you can't compare to suspension like for instance KW. For the front the JOM setup is installed as delivered. In the rear I didn't use the height adjustment but installed the spring only using the OEM spring lock at the bottom to fix the spring. I also used 18 mm spacers underneath the shock mount, the so called Nivomat spacers. I do have to add that there is no spare tire and no floor panels installed in the rear. Also the trunk lid panel isn't installed which causes the inner window/trunk trim to rattle from time to time which adds to the "crude" impression. For the money it is a very nice set.

This is how I received the brakes February 19 2003, Installed them on SD1 at the time. In 2005 they were transferred to SD2. This is how they came off on Februari 18 2015.. Slightly aged but still functioning very well. glass blasted them and brought them to the painter. Porsche logo's will be replaced with Brembo logo's. After removing the brakes the engine was next,

That's what I meant..

This is with the small intake plenum?

It fits with a ~5'4" in front. My oldest son is ~6'1" and sits in the back behind mom. I'm ~6'3" and my youngest son is ~5'3". I can't have the seat all the way back for him to fit but it is OK.

7c is the commercially advised threshold yes.. Februari 3, This morning Februari 5, Roads are clear now..

In the Netherlands it isn't mandatory. In Germany it is mandatory when snow is to be expected. Since I don't plan to visit Germany any time soon the snow tires aren't needed. During the last weeks the weather had been mild and above freezing during the day but there was some snow during the night in the last week. There are no longer trips planned and as long as the roads are snow free I like to keep the summer tires simply because they perform better. Today temps were near 5 degree C which is good enough for the summer tire. Tomorrow morning some snow is expected but temps will be up again soon after.

And 22 hrs on most snow cleared again...

Decided not to. This was last night two minutes to midnight.

Last Saturday, Thursday, Wednesday, Tonight, Winter tires or not?

Ferrita from factory.

Yes. Sport mode. Here is some flipper action during the break in period, http://youtu.be/Rf0LQh8a6i0

Is't a 6 speed AT with flippers. D-mode and S-mode AT or manual mode through stick or steering flippers when pushing + or - on the stick or touching the flippers. Holding one flipper makes it return back to AT mode. When using the flippers S-mode is always engaged and the exhaust valve will open. http://youtu.be/zhWk5gL5bHE