Johann

No. What you were saying is that if Hussein would have used a standalone management system he would have had 700 HP about a year ago. But then Hussein explained that number crunching the M4.4 is part of his game. Added to that with the incomplete information gathered from reverse engineering the M4.4 sometimes revisions need to be made. Keeping the OEM motormanagement in the car has some advantages over a standalone management.

Some pics from the WWW, Yes I thought about it and a lot of time went in to the car but the fact remains that he needs to learn how to drive anyway. A Volvo is a bit safer in case things go wrong. My son has a bit of a crush for the VW Caddy, I told him the day he turns 18 he can go get his caddy. And a new home..

I only asked how long he had planned to enjoy the T-5R bumper. Message was clear, point taken. My son still needs to drive with a coach for the coming 6 months because he is 17. The appointed coaches are his mom and dad. The day he turns 18 he can drive on his own. Something else, Today I managed to get the D1 up and running using an MS3-Pro motormanagement. Had some USB issues at first. Using an HP 6910p laptop running Windows 7. The MS3-Pro came with a TunerStudio license. All new to me. Wiring was pretty straight forward. Using all the OEM sensors. A Fenix 5.2 loom in this case since the car is a 10v. Used a Volvo wiring diagram for reference. There were slight differences in the way some sensors are grounded but all appears to work OK except for the idle valve. Will check later. OEM stuff connected, CLT IAT IAC, 2 wire for the 10v. Having issues still. TPS Knock x 2 Injectors x5, Sequential. Spark x1, OEM distributer setup. Pre wired for COP. Fan, using relay to toggle ground wire when ECU powers down. Explained in earlier post. Fuel pump, needs a quick fix because OEM relay is PWM operated. Tacho out. Crank trigger sensor Cam trigger sensor Zeitronix wideband will be connected soon. Currently used as gauge only.

The "P"60 is a replacement for the IS. The SD11 is basically the replacement for the S60R. 700 miles so far. Yesterday my oldest son drove the T-5R for the first time after receiving his driver license.

Sold the S60R today,

Happy 2015 all! Some minor updates. SD11 has been decommissioned from DD duty. It is a fun car to drive except for the clutch which didn't work as intended. The thicker S60R friction probably kept the pressure plate from reaching full clamp force. The result was that anything boost beyond 0.5 bar the clutch couldn't hold. Only a few instances where the full potential of the 2.4 engine could be experienced. The there is the D1, the green one. Suspended and without insurance the car had been standing outside for months and had lost some shine. Battery was near dead also. After charging the battery to 75% or so the engine started without to much fuzz. A bit noisy on the valves at first but ran fine once warmed up. Drove the car to the carwash and left the engine running but when I wanted to drive back the engine sputtered and died. Don't know what happened but at first the engine didn't start at all. Phoned a friend for help which took 10-15 minutes and when he arrived to help tow the car back I tried to start the car again and after some sputtery behaviour the engine slowly started running normal again.. After the hickup I/we drove the car back on it's own power. Could have been anything. Checked some things and all appeared to be OK. The car is a 10v. Not using a MAF but MAP and IAT. Gave it some thought and decided to do some testing with this car and it's current engine. Most of the engine plans for this car went in to the SD11. Had some more plans one being convert the car to standalone for future plans. Two choices. Link G4 Xtreme or MS3-Pro. Decided to try the MS3-Pro. Last week I started rewiring the car, Similar approach as the former red "SD-C" 850. ECU in or below the glovebox. Connect the loom inside the ECU box. With the red car I left the loom at full length so it could be used in another car at a later time but with this setup I left less length in the loom. All OEM sensors are used for now. Two quick fixes are needed for the fuel pump which uses a PWM relay with the OEM ECU and the fan which receives both the high and low level power straight from the battery while the MS3 likes to see the low level power being switched to keep it from staying powered on when the engine/ECU is shut off. The 850 fan relay draws it's low level power internally from the high power line. Hope to make more progress in the coming week. And last there's the new DD. It was a long wait.

Respect ..

Yes you all have a point but the thing is that when running a GT2871 at moderate to medium boost levels it won't do better than a K24 which as I understand is currently being used. A 3076 will respond slower or lazier compared to a 3071 (T3 A/R .63) btw. A 3071 should give good spool near 3K rpm.

Use a 3071 instead. 2871 is to restricted.

All up to you. Changed the title for the time being until you make up your mind.

What title do you want?

Newer Oil Pan W/Oil Cooler on a weekly basis..

Congrats

Now that you ask.. Not sure if it is MY2000. It is a B5234T3 canister. Posted about it >here.

Should be possible to get it functioning again. I believe there is a wiring difference between AT and MT and a clutch switch is needed. Had an issue with the speedometer. The former M56 had a speed sensor, the M66 not. Applied the VSS mod by rerouting the the speed sensor wires to the driver side ABS sensor. Thought I had done a neat job only to discover that it didn't work. Once the car started rolling the engine died. With the new engine an M4.4 ECU was used with modified software for this setup to get going. Swapped the ECU for an M4.3 containing OEM T-5R software and everything worked like it should. Tried several other ECU's including M4.4's and all worked well except the one which initially was in the car. Received another M4.4 ECU today with the same modified software and all it working OK now. Have driven some 30-40 miles with the car so far with and without the speedometer working and want to put some more miles on it first before making more modifications. Most of the goals have been met for the time being. Some minor fixes and improvement still need to be done but basically the setup is OK for now. A small sum of parts, Car: 1994 Volvo 855 2.0 T5 MT. Base engine: 2005+ B5244T5 including long neck K24 turbo OEM mounted. Base gearbox: M66 P2 version. Engine mods, MY2000 B5244S fixed exhaust cam MY2003 B5234T3 fixed intake cam. Intake and exhaust VVT blocking plates. MY1995 B5234FT intake plenum RN port matched. MY2000 crank ventilation canister. MY1995 vent hose to head. Slightly modified B5244T5 PTC hose/pipe to MY1995 PTC MY1994 B5254S throttle body (Including plastic lump) DO88.se silicone coupler to fit TB to late style turbo plumbing. Modified late style turbo to IC pipe to align with K24 neck. - cut, repositioned and welded turbo side hose flange. OEM B5204FT fuel rail including FPR. OEM B5244T5 Blue injectors installed. MY1999-2000 front engine mount. Home made rear engine/M66 mount. TTV-racing lightened single mass flywheel. S60R friction to fit M66 spline - 850R pressure plate. (The verdict still out.. Don't think this is the way to go. Wait and see.) MY1995 accessory bracket holding MY1995 steering pump and alternator. AC pump removed. Short route multi belt. B5244T5 crank pulley. (1 bolt hole of the bracket doesn't align to engine btw) Intake pipe, K24 turbo side, MY1995 850 LMM side. 2.5" alloy pipe in between. (Temporary) Gearbox mods, Shifter pins on gearbox changed to MY1995 850 style 8 mm pins. Modified cable bracket to fit MY1995 850 shifter cables. Quaife LSD. OEM MY1999 C70 2.5T downpipe/converter. OEM IC, AC condensor removed. M4.4 ECU (reflashed)

No pictures taken? I didn't sell cool Volvo things back then. About the swap, Last Friday had the engine up and running mainly because of the voluntary help of a good friend... Early Friday morning I picked up the Trex wheels and TDR rims from the tire guy. Mounted the rear wheels and started adding some parts to the engine bay. Put the radiator back in the car and mounted most of the coolant system hoses and some vacuum stuff. Can't say it was a joy. It was pretty cold in the workplace and didn't feel very excited to work on the car. Sometimes this happens when there is no pressure. Had to bring the 6 wheeler for annual inspection. This was more of a pre inspection. If all turned out OK it could have been certified right away but I knew there were some issues. About an hour later I was back at the shop and it was time for coffee. The doorbell rang, my friend came by and also thought it was time for coffee. He had taken the day off and it looked like he had time to kill.. Little later some visitors came by but when I came back in the canteen my friend wasn't there but his car still parked outside. Went in to the shop to discover huge progress in the engine bay of the SD.. My friend really had time to kill.. Shifter cables, clutch bleeding, driveshafts, exhaust and accessory stuff had already been done earlier in the week but there still was the vacuum puzzle and the intake. The airbox didn't fit above the M66 without modification. We decided to use an open filter for the time being and look at the airbox at a later point. Fuel lines needed to be secured. Some B5244T5's do not have all the bolt holes present for mounting the fuel line mounting brackets. For now we tie wrapped the return line to the feed line which sits pretty secure over the engine. Then there was the intake pipe. About half an hour fiddling with a K24 pipe, a 15G pipe, an alloy pipe, a burner and two hose clamps later there was a provisional intake pipe to mount the 850 LMM. After that it was time to start. And the engine started without fuzz. Pretty disappointing actually. Turned the key and the engine started like it had never been out of the car. No smoke, no sputter, no drama . Idling was OK at first but ran higher a bit later. Turned off the engine and started again and if gave a throttle blip. Could see the throttle cable being pulled without touching the throttle pedal. This had something to do with the CC so we removed the linkage at the throttle pedal to get rid of it. The CC was disabled on this car and apparently enabled again during the rebuild.. Need to check if it's broken or connected wrong. Can be done at a later point. Saturday morning I added the last parts to the car and went for a short test drive. The ECU has been re-flashed with a temporary tune which incorporates the blue injectors and the K24 at lower boost setting. Tried to keep the engine out of boost at this first drive which it managed very well. The engine responds very well to throttle input. The K24 made a slight whistling noise, nothing alarming. Think I must have driven 3 or 4 miles in total. The M66 shifts better than the original setup. Shifter position is OK. Maybe with the reverse at the far right it might have been positioned a bit more to the left. Nothing leaking after the test drive. Yesterday morning I wanted to mount some closed covers under the headlamps. Removed the headlight wipers and had two white covers without the wiper holes but the white color was a huge mismatch so I mounted the original ones again. Also made an attempt to reshape the distribution belt cover to it will fit behind the old accessory belt tensioner. Don't want to drive the car without the cover. To much rain in the coming days and do not want to have it all smudged. Left for a Volvo meeting in the country later in the day so didn't work on the car anymore. Hope to do some more today and have the car back on the road as a DD again.

Engine up and running using M4.3,

Yes. that color doesn't belong on that generation.

Has been discussed on this forum. Blue's are 395 CC at 3.8 bar. At 3 bar they do closer to 360 CC. White's are 350 CC at 3 bar. Had a set of 5 blue's cleaned and tested at 3 bar and the report said they averaged at 363 CC.

Installed crank ventilation and intake plenum. Changed the injectors to blue's. Wanted to do some more today but the steering pump of the T-5R decided to crap out. Exchanged it for better functioning one this afternoon.

Temperature is psychological. A the moment it's freaking "water" cold out here. 7 degree C. Roughly 100 miles east from Amsterdam. Only an office building for rent at the moment. Sorry.

That is a nice offer. I would be willing to try at a later point. Are you using ME7 cops or the older 960 with external ignitors? I want to have the car up and running sometime next week. For this to happen the stock management setup will be used. AC has been removed from the car so basically there is no conversion needed to run either 4.3 or 4.4. I'm using all the sensors from the stock setup. Stock fuel rail with 395 injectors (@3 bar), 850 style intake with a 20V NA throttle body. Stock idle valve. This style conversion has been done before and works.

Not in an 850. M4.3 or M4.4 will be used for now. Maybe standalone at a later point. Rotor is good enough. Reason for using this setup is because M4.X is being used.

New setup in, Shifter is functioning like it should. Still missing a downpipe but I hope to pick up an OEM pipe tomorrow. Will have to do for now.

Removed the engine today, T-5R has been promoted to DD for now.