turbor850

wonderful work !

Ben always gets mad when he's like, "wheres your build Chris?" . . . i say im secret . . .lol

http://zymol.com/shop/item.asp?PID=1385&scID=25

fantastic

wow, looking awesome mark !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

that turbo barely fits in there !

what tuning you going with ?

I can post from work too You laugh in my face.... haha. Well i'm about to leave work, gotta go to turbotrix for my estimate.

Turbotrix =

I got my manifold ported by them, very very good work

VERY VERY IMPRESSIVE FOR N/A

I am extremely impressed, nicely done

May not have time too relocate tonight.

you car will not function right with the horns not attatched..........

J/K !

they will be fine, you just won't have a horn !

should be up there arround 10ish like last year, people roll in slowly but consistently at this event...

should be good times

i need to know where we are meeting ! :angry:

weather permitting Chris, my Saab buddy and myself should be going up from southern CT, we'll pass your area on the way up 84

yessssir

why are you selling all this stuff?

are you gonna buy my car ?

hey I was wonder if any one has come into the same problem I have. I got a 1997 850 turbo AWD, and I have stucka boost gauge and manual boost controller on it this week. It runs fine when I barely turn up the boost from 5 psi, though When I hit about 7 the computer kicks. I am looking to turn it up to about 10 psi and apparently that is safe with the stock ecu programing. There is a solenoid valve near the wastegate that is hooked up to the vacuum lines, so my buddy and I are figuring that it is sensing the over boost and sending the info to the computer and is venting the boost and going to safe boost mode. Which is like 2 psi, which sucks. We are figuring that we should be about to just cheat the system by by passing the solenoid and just watching the boost gauge to make sure there isn't any over boost. If anyone has run into this problem and knows what is safe to do, any info would be greatly appreciated.

Peace,

-Ruckus

ahhh, 850 Turbo AWD , auto or manual ?

I forgot there was no intercooler.

260whp can definately be had for cheaper

I agree. There was a RIP kit though, so makes me wonder what other things were done.

Got an email today about the stage 3 kit from IPD for the 4.3 motronic cars. 18T, down pipe, cat back exhaust and ECU map for $2995->$2595 if you are overwriting your existing set-up. I don't know the projected power #'s yet, anyone else know?

the actual numbers for that car was 267 whp and 296 wtq

so stage 3, i didn't really look at the video too long, but 18T,down pipe,exhaust,rip kit, some other stuff done also yeilded 267 with a MANUAL

maybe with R manifold, intercooler you can get 280 to the wheels with a manual

auto will obviously dyno a tad lower

http://www.ipdusa.biz/dyno/

Edit: Torque is a bit low with 280 ft.lbs. = 380 NM. Mine has 295 ft.lbs. which are also not really very special . But with the automatic transmission you can't tune it to much more. The best i saw here where 420 NM or so for an auto. Manuals should be 420 up to 480... with Chip, 16T, down pipe and exhaust !

is 350 WTQ = 475 NM to the wheels ?

nice job on getting a dyno done

have the graph ? ? ?

until 75MPH.. then the HPT goes, WHEEEEEEEEEE, right on by....

and then we go to the video

silver - LPT

red - HPT

i think both boosting the same, but Joe and Jesse would know best

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/volvo+...e0030f05586.htm

fake dyno readings are the new pegs

i said it!

as long as you tune using the same dyno, and can show differences, i don't think it makes much of a difference

exactly, to show differences using the dyno, yes sounds good, using the dyno to show that you have 400 whp with just a chip and downpipe, then i find that wrong

Actually yes they are hard as well.

Like anything it takes practice.

if people are running unplugged wastegates, who cares, let them, if they feel its fast, let them do it

all dynos aren't created equal, so what if ones higher then the other, we can at least judge then what is a approx. hp rating from the dyno

a fast spooling turbo and sticky tires develop fast 60 foot times

I am ranting and don't car :lol:

theres this 1997 850R for sale I know of

150,000 on odometer, but only 30,000 on engine, 10,000 on trans, and 8,000 on turbo

at 22 psi dynoed at

330 WHP

350 WTQ

and is getting it tuned again in October for more hp (24 or 26 psi)

Suspension and Brakes

Engine Stabilizer Mount

iPD Strut Brace

PBR Pads

Powerslot Rotors

Shocks & Struts by Bilstein

Sport Springs by TME

Zimmerman 302 mm Cross Drilled

Exterior

1998 Volvo V70R Wheels

Blacked Out Grille

Interior

Autometer Boost Gauge

Carbon Fiber Shift Knob And Parking Brake Lever

iPD Pillar Pod

Misc

BFG G-Force T/A KDW

LM-1 Wideband

Magnetic Drain Plug

Scan Gauge

Performance

93 850 N/A Cams

Aquamist 1S Water Injection

ATech 100% Aluminum Intercooler

Catco Catalytic Converter

Eurosport Tuning Ultra Flow Intake

Greddy Profec Type S EBC

Hahn Racecraft Super 20G

HKS SSQV

iPD Sport Exhaust System

Level Ten Stage 2 Shift Kit & Torque Converter

Level Ten Stage 3 Race/Street Transmission

MSD 6A Ignition System

MSD SS Blaster Coil

NGK V-Power Spark Plugs

O.E. Bougicord Wires

Samco Black Turbo Hoses

T-Bolt Clamps

TurboTrix Ported And Polished Stage 2 Exhaust Manifold

Upsolute Tuned ECU

Volvo S60/V70 R Green Injectors

Volvomotorsports High Performance Motor

Walbro 255 Liter Fuel Pump

also comes with 7 Volans and 4 steelies with some 20G parts

pm me to make an offer lolzzzzz

But, 600AWHP is not ALL turbo. There is an engine on there too. For example, my 18T makes roughly 300WHP on my car @ 20 PSI. But if you put a turbo kit consisting of my 18T on a Ferrari Enzo, It would be over 600WHP even on 5 PSI.

I recently boosted 22 PSI => 20 PSI from MBC by stretching spring + WG rod shortened 3 times.

I bent a rod and 5 hydraulic lifters AS SOON as I did this. Not cool. BUT, my timing was also advanced and it could have helped bend them.

Be safe guys. Instead of getting another 20 (twenty) WHP on your car, thus bending a rod and lifters, just lighten your car by 200 Pounds and get the same results.

Recap: 20 PSI is fine, but 22 is the danger zone.

that engine would out flow the turbo at just 5 psi after 3000 rpm, do some compressor map calculating

any dyno graphs on 18T at 20 psi so I can compare to the other 18T done by Marco?

Realistically, how much could you safetly boost into a s70 glt engine which is the 2.4 lpt? And roughly how much hp are those blocks good for? Im new, srry if this is a dumb question...

Realistically,

13G - 19 psi

15G - 18 psi

20G - 13 psi

GT35R - 10 psi

and the blocks are good for 550, but the rods and pistons aren't good for it

all jokes aside,

what do you want to do with your car? hp wise . . .

You can weld the gate shut, but partial throttle surging would be a sob.

and run an external ? welding the gate shut wouldn't be the brightest idea, unless you were joking, then :lol:

I always thought they were 7... The TD04HL have bigger turbine exducer than regular TD04/TD04H also.

http://www.melett.com/newPDFs/MHI/TD04.pdf...sing%20A%2FR%22

That's a list that mentions all of the FWD Volvos (except some 2.0 liter versions and for some reason the 1998 S70?) as 7 cm2 housings. Go figure...

Cool little PDF you got there. Well I heard that just some are 7 and others 6. But either way, 300 whp with a bigger turbo.

6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R

7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R

8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R

9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R

10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R

11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R

12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R

I thought they were 6 cm 2 housing ? :unsure:

Actually, Joe... I'd be willing to bet that a turbo with a larger turbine helping produce more efficient boost and potentially a bit more lag will help our rods out with higher hp goals.

You are right on Joe.Take for instance the .41 A/R housing (stock volvo). Changing turbine A/R has many effects. By going to a larger turbine A/R, the turbo comes up on boost at a higher engine speed, the flow capacity of the turbine is increased and less flow is wastegated, there is less engine backpressure, and engine volumetric efficiency is increased resulting in more overall power. The .41 A/R is able to create the pressure differential at a much lower engine rpm, giving the compressor ability to make its maximum rpm speed sooner, why the 15G and all others spool very quickly. As the engine rpm climbs, the pressure differential is lowered due to the physical volume of the housing size becoming a restriction on the post turbine side - volvo turbine housing suck !. As the housing size is increased, it take greater engine rpm speed (greater exhaust energy) to spool up the turbine, but the pressure differential is less effected by the physical volume of the housing. If you are after maximum midrange gains smaller housings are essentially (15G,16T,18T), if top end gains are essential larger housing are essential(16G,20G,3071R, 28R).