lookforjoe

The wing is nuts! Looks awesome, but just to OTT for me. I wasn't planning on doing the "iCSONONOVE" or the "b", but I'm going to do the door lettering if I can get it produced for a resonable cost in a matching red. did a paper mock up of the lettering also made lexan headlamp covers - I hadn't noticed it at first, but the original version had them Cut from the basic template, then heated and creased the panels (clamped in a vice) for each side. some trimming required after the fact of course four little "L" brackets will retain each panel. Took some small conduit brackets I had laying around & bent them into the required "L", added a M4 rivnut, and primed/painted. ...and chopped an inch of so off the 960 spoiler chin I had melded into the fibreglass version

Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped

I finally decided to make the Dallara stripe templates. I used a couple old pics for reference, as opposed to some of the other repro Dallara. Tagboard to make the templates. The duct area is going to be a nightmare to fit. Some panels are close enough that reversing the template will work, some not so much. Got all the decals cut from the 3M 1080 film. It's one of the new wrap films that are actually porous, so they claim it doesn't bubble when installed. I don't have a great track record with conventional decal material, so we'll see how this goes. Panels are 5.125" deep. They need to ride just over the door crease, not within it, I've seen ones like that & it just looks wrong. Hard to tell if the line is really right - it's not actually straight from front ot back. The front fender forward section has to drop to the headlamp area, but on the actual Dallara it has a bulge in it that tapers in a way I don't like , so I had to make adjustments to the line. I used painters tape to add a slightly bow to the upper line where it comes forward of the wheel arch, then it drops. Hopefully it will look right in the decal. I can always make new ones if not. Deliberated on whether to try & either get the door sections manufactured with the ICSUNONOVE, or try & do it myself. In the end, I decided to not bother. May change my mind down the road, however I'm not racing this thing. Having the type on the sides is kinda like those "MAZDA" or "FORD" banners that ppl put across the windshield, etc., when it's already obvious what the car is. That may not be so true for X1/9's these days, but I still don't think it needs it. Completed the stripes around the car. Still need to redo the left duct area. Had to jack the car up to get a decent working height. Too hard to see what's what at ground level pass duct done. Turned the car around & did the pass front fender sections. The rear section took two attempts. Every decal has some imperfection. Took it out to photo in the sunlight. Looks fine from several feet, can't see the creases .

Very cool. Definitely ID with all the problem solving required. You have taken it all to an awesome level with the CAD development!

Installed the C30 AWD rear Posi - carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump.

Dash & switches done for now. Remade the low side(#10) hose. 135º fitting at compressor, #12 MOR, welded to #10 beadlock hose barb. Nice & relaxed fit now. It's clear of the bulkhead - just looks like it's close Made a modified #8 elbow fitting - didn't need to remake the hose with this. Hopefully it holds vacuum now.

Thanks, Guys! Turned out the flex coupler had not broken, not in the sense I was expecting anyway. The end collar separated from the lining. Perhaps my delicate (for once) weld on that seam was the problem - didn't penetrate to the inner material. So, I pressed it back on & welded it on the inner lip seam. While I was on the exhaust I cut back the tailpipe and welded the RedTail exhaust tip on Finished up the remote adjuster for the balance bar. Made a bracket for the adjuster knob, and a reinforcing plate for the backside of the dash. Threaded the knob plate for M4x.75 screws Bracket installed, cable cut and braised to prevent unwinding. Routed the cable over here to keep potential cable kinks to a minimum. I considered putting it under the driver's side, but it would be in the way. On the inboard side of the PS, it would be in the way of removing the fusebox, so it is what it is. Shouldn't need to be adjusting it while driving anyway. Washed the car yesterday for the first time since I started the k24 work Interior mostly back together swapped out the ambient temp gauge for one that is more legible in sunlight switched to ºF

Put the new wheels on, the old ones don't clear the front brakes without more than 1/2" spacer, so I'm not using them at this point Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on... while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering. No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler. The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks So, I need to get a new one.... After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display Fitted the ambient temp gauge. May need to figure out how to dim it. Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB putting back the cover panels

CEIKA parts with the revised offset came a couple days ago, so I put the front brakes on figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open.

This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements and so... Wirign goes slow. GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there

done. mod the shifter base to clear the housing, didn't want to engage 5th so well Installed the 50º cam gear. Took hours, as I really, really did not want to risk dropping the chain off the crank gear. TDC Remove tensioner cover, then rotate CCW, lock tensioner, rotate back to TDC marker Removed all the cam caps chain tie-wrapped on either side to prevent it dropping Also secured in the middle as per various videos, however this makes no sense, as with it tensioned from above, you can't get the chain off the gear Ditched the brace & center strap. Very fiddly getting the chain off the gear, then getting the cam and gear out of the head. No pics. Transferred PND gear, torqued to 83ft/lb, reinstalled into head. Made sure dots in gears aligned with marker lines I made on chain. Rotated a couple revolutions and checked all markers again Had to redo the OP sender channel - I had made it for 1/8" NPT port, but the correct sender I have is actually M14x1.5, so I redrilled & tapped it & installed the correct sender All back together Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later.... hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet ) Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar. Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good. Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see

GPS for Marshall Speedo will likely go here Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash. M4 rivnuts vinyl cover Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure

I made the brake lines yesterday, and finshed the layout today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes. Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off Blocked off one of the outlets Lines done Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25 Bracket will retain the two junctions Spent a few hours the past couple days trying to find the cause of the P10009 Cam Angle code. As soon as the code is set, the cam stays in the full retard position. I replaced the Cam angle solenoid, and rechecked the filter screen on the side of the head. After that, I looked further in to the software. The basic setting is this one: I set it to 24º, taking these values from the TSX base code. Today, I found the Cam angle map, and replaced the values in that with those for the TSX: I hoped that would fix it, but it did not. What I found was that the other 25º cam angle setup found in the Accord, only had a 20º Cam Angle Limit. Since the map only goes to 20º, I figured that may be why the code is setting, so I reduced the limit to 20º, and that fixed it! Yay! The car ran better off the line with the RSX map, which has higher values lower in the rpm & load ranges, so I will try adding some degrees back in, without exceeding the limit. I'm going to take it for tuning in a couple weeks, now it OK overall. I've also had issues with the idle. Can't get the IACV to operate properly, so I have disabled it for the time being. The problem there is, if a code sets, the engine won't rev nicely, it stumbles & stutters off idle.

Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc., bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forgot) at junction Hose routing or

Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to Worked on the MC mount plate mock up Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid 1.25" offset will be good 3.25" height, 4.5" wide Will add webbing to support mount plate clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster Bushing needs to be 6.375" Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in Welded the brake pivot extension "L" section under the forward edge rear extension With V70 clutch master in place Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height

This is where i'm at: Tried the CompBrake mockup box I don't know how much height clearance there is above the pedal box - however this would need a few inches of clearance to work. Decided I'll be much happier with a setup that with less complexity, so I'm going ahead with building the bias bar off the pedal arm pivot. Have to figure out how to box out the mounting plate I need to make to prevent flex under braking this will be welded here, with that offset I only need to widen the entire assembly by an inch

I certainly expect so ! Temps in the high 30's today, so I pushed the car outside to run it. I modded the RSX tune using the TSX VTEC settings & rpm limits & uploaded to the ECU. After that I ran the motor briefly. Sounds good & AFR's are good. Only obvious problem is high idle now. First up I pulled the IACV & found the crappy seal was cracked, and leaking. With the two ports plugged in the TB, the idle was closer to normal. after that, I ran the motor to normal operating temp - 180 something for the K24, fan cycled. then I sprayed around the TB & intake plenum to check for possible air leaks. I did order a smoke machine - been meaning to get one for some time - but it won't be here for close to a week. I got an idle change when spraying the right side edge of the plenum unbolted the compressor, undid the plenum have to remove the support backet also, all easy to get to with the larger opening Just have to ease the gasket out & new one in I don't see any wear/uneven compression on the one I removed though Put it back together, and it sounded worse! So, I took the plenum off entirely, that wasn't to bad either, just have to drop the alternator to allow removal I found that there is a hole in the welds of the crotch between 1 & 2. I have to take the plenum back to the machine shop, that was one of the tricky areas I had him finish for me. I've also ordered one of the thermal intermediate gaskets (3mm), as I'm not confident that the skinny metal gasket is ever going to seal properly.

Yes, thank goodness that was all it was, as far as that goes. Problem is it doesn't run well at all. Idle surges & AFR's sweep wildly, so I haven't even run it to full warm up yet. Have some work to do to figure out what's going on

Took care of several things today. Finished cleaning up the mats Good enough for another year or so Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder. Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works. With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm. Youtube Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain Drip Drip Drip youtube

Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring secured with one plastic rivet I'll cover it with carpet made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40 Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage all good now Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down. These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.

Engine wouldn't start - no ECU activation. Though it might be an immobilizer issue, but it turned out I missed wired the ECU base feed from the main relay instead of the fuel pump relay switched circuit. added the extra wire from the F/Pump relay feed fuse to E9 circuit, and it's all good! Ran it for just long enough to set the fuel pressure to 50psi and that was about it. https://youtu.be/uY6dsARp0lg Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would stay on the exhaust. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see :D Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that. ODBII port is wired

Finished the 8 pole spade bridge connector only the OBDII port left now. ELD circuit wired to this point. Just need to figure out a feed that is not live in crank reconnected the battery - nothing caught fire or turned itself on, so it's looking good - so much wiring I wasn't sure I wouldn't have an issue reverse lights are fed from the ECU, they work Only thing I see is that I have the trigger for the ECU fan connected to (30) feed instead of (15) - it's not supposed to be live with key off. Have to get some gasoline, check the fluids, and then crank it over & see what's what :)

Worked on figuring out exactly what needs to be altered with the BBK. 14mm pushback on the rotor hub, with the bracket moved to the backside of the spindle mount - with that I can get away with 12mm spacer for the wheel, which works for both style wheels. bracket needs caliper mount holes moved 4mm outward, with bracket mounted inboard. I cut 4mm off the inboard side to achieve that with the existing mount rotor still clears the balljoint & steering arms on the spindle Caliper clears the wheels with 10mm spacer, I can live with that. After that I installed the ELD unit and worked on the spare well relay box & wiring added the ground circuit junction

The latex seems to be working for fixing the mat backing. It's holding the frayed edging nicely. Found I hadn't discarded the driver's mat, so I'm going to try the same for that. I'll add reinforcing webbing to the damaged sections of the backing, and laminate that into the backing. Test fitting the CEIKA brakes. problem is the calipers won't clear either wheel style without 24mm spacing. I need them to redo the brackets and the hubrings to push the calipers back 12mm. I can deal with 12mm spacers, that won't mess with the wheel arch /fender clearance. Worked on the EMS wiring after that. Finished the final connections to the harness. The I/O for the reverse lights & brake input were the last putting it all in place bracket & ECU fan secured ECU in Relay box in Much wiring stuffed into this corner Soon I'll get to this mess

P Thank you :) Still plugging away at the electrical wiring - laying out the EMS harness now that I have the various connections figured out. I made an bridge harness (using the pigtail that came with the motor) between the ECU E, C201, relay box and EMS, so that everything can be unplugged if/when the drivetrain requires removal. Now it's mostly just a question of connecting all the dots. AMP JPT connectors for much of this, simply because I have them from old Volvo harnesses & they can carry reasonable load. Using Yazaki 1.5 & 2.8 for sensors, signal wires, etc. that don't have the same load requirements. 15 to relay box, 15 & 31 for ECU fan and Fuel pump here AC compressor clutch feed ECU fan PWM connection HX 040 series Also putting a couple layers latex on the backside of the remaining Bertone floor mat to help hold it together & create a rubberized layer. Adheres nicely into the mesh grid on the back. Now I wish I had kept the DS mat - I might have been able to save it with this method. Just need it to last another year or so until I'm ready to install the new carpeting & mats from Henk. Got some more of the EMS harness connected - these are all the signal/trigger wires that pass from theater-engine EMS harness through to the cabin via two connectors at that end. I bought these crimpers from Cycle Terminal back when I was doing the C30 AWD swap - to take care of the wiring needs for that. There are issues - I found that I had incorrectly connected a wire on the cabin side of this harness - the one I need for the bay fan thermoswitch I mistakenly connected to the wire intended for the ACfan trigger - which runs all the way to the fusebox instead of terminating in the spare well. I'll have to switch some wires around in the cabin-side connector to address that. Thankfully it's just the that pair. This stuff takes me forever. I've been spending days on making the wiring charts listing the different connectors and all the wiring on each side of every connector. I have to do it multiple ways so I can cross-check each wire as I actually connect it to the appropriate housing. Very time consuming for me. I tend to get dyslexic with this stuff & switch pin numbers/locations in my head or look at the housings from the wrong side when counting pin numbers. The convention seems to be pins are numbered starting top row left, viewed from the wire side of the housing. Some of the sketches I made, I had labelled them viewed from the terminal side or from the male housing, which throws everything off. Fortunately I figured most of that out on paper rather than after doing the wiring itself. I've also been mulling over whether or not to include the ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit Honda builds into the EMS. The ECU controls Alt output based on a load signal from that. If I didn't include it, I would still have to figure out a way to 'fool' it otherwise. I chopped up the Acura fusebox & removed the section that houses the input battery/starter/alt cable attachment, with the ELD module. I considered mounting it in the spare well, which would have been easier, however the unit needs to monitor load before any consumers, or it won't operate correctly, based on what I've read about it. I bent the left tab flat & cut off some extra material to leave two flats I could drill for studs ELD module I/O to be addressed. For the trigger, I'm going to use the wire I had intended for the acfanrelay, since I've already run that from the trunk through to the Fiat fuse panel, so an easy extension out to the frunk from there. Other two are just switched power & ground. it will go between the battery cable & my inline fuse looks like it will be OK. Will need some sort off insulation/isolation on the underside of the left left for safety. I shoved the duct hose into the inner fender, and found that the most I can get is about 14" forward - there is an reinforcing member below the targa sail that intersects with the inner fender & blocks further passage. Should be OK, still will be drawing air coming from either the gas tank well side opening or from the targa sail vent, I reckon