lookforjoe

I got the relays wired, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit 6 pin Sumitomo TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin JPT for the power/ground feeds Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired. Need to do the same & have it removable with about 2' of harness coming off it. Much easier to do this part at my dining table than squatting in the freezing garage Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use. Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections. left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid. About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds. Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86. I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85. plastic-welding the duct support - outside - the vapors really smells bad I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well primed and painted the bracket EPDM hose I bought from McMasterCarr years ago Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through Fan PWM controller finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place. top of plate tucks under vacuum cannister support bracket

AWD Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear Quaife 11J LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash. He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep

There is an aluminum slat panel that covers all that, so yes, one cannot see it once it's covered :) Thank you - it is enjoyable, making stuff :D Finally had a breakthough in terms of having a direction for the ECU, bus bars & relay box layout. Slow day at work, so I did some sketching to figure it out. Was thinking along these lines (in the left cavity, vertical strip on the right being the left frame rail): played around with some cardboard, and then made the aluminum version (used the neighborhood watch sign). Recessed to keep the ECU as far in the fender well as possible. Bolted to inner wheel arch and taillamp support. Then I figured out the support for the relay box, and the bus bars template: cut & folded, rivnuts to secure the relay box & bus bar. Pos bar will go to the right anchor at the base - using the bolt that also secures the exhaust hanger plate Now I can get on with the actual wiring, once I get back from visiting my daughter & grandchildren in Orlando.

Made a bracket that mounts underneath on the block - wasn't happy with the idea of a side brace. The factory elbow bolts to that, and then a SS tab will be welded to the header collector had to add a vertical section for the upper securing bolt of the elbow bracket. Bolts are welded on the backside. Honda bracket goes thus, with the header bracket on the other side All bolts are easy enough to access, nothing fiddly here Header has to be installed through the exhaust bay.... I cut up the Acura swaybar end links and used them to make the upper support brackets for the heat shield drilled a new hole at the base, and transferred the isolating collar from the old lower section. Had to drill one side off & then silver solder it back in place Have to make & weld a tab to the collector for that. Lastly, I started laying out the heat shield divider for crossmemember area. Probably going to drill & install a series of SS M4 rivnuts & use SS M4 hardware to secure it. Stainless Works (2.5" 4"x8"x14" body chambered "Turbo") muffler arrived this morning. I had emailed them on Thursday when it didn't show as shipped (they said 2 weeks from time of order to ship), and they said they were a couple weeks behind (!) and that I might see it by New Years. I replied indicating I really wasn't happy with that outcome, and if they had indicated at the time of order that delivery could take around a month I may well have looked elsewhere. To their credit, I got a shipping notice Friday morning. Got it welded to the I/O pipes I had made for the Magnaflow muffler, with a little adaption due to the difference in muffler dimensions. Seem to have good clearances all around. I'll see what happens when it's operating on the road. Have to cut the tailpipe & add the RedTail SS tip. Not going to do that until the car is down & level so I can be sure the extension/offset is right. the fact that it's not level is somewhat of a bother - however, not enough to compel me to rework it. With that out of the way , I started in on all the wiring that needs to happen. Took care of all the rear deck wiring Next I'll do the relay wiring in here for the starter & bay fan, then move to the trunk for the ECU /EMS management wiring. Not really looking forward to that. Problem is I don't have a concrete plan on how best to lay it out.

Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it

Still building the exhaust. Finished up the water passage outlet, V70 t/stat neck Finshed the adaptor housing and Volvo C30 t/stat housing install Quaife arrived for the C30 rear end. Waitng for the spare rear diff to chop up

So.... We had some snow & ice, and I took it out to see what's what. With DSTC turned off, it's quite nice- but.... since these have no rear posi like the old P80's (cheap Ford bastards) the rear pushes right when it looses traction. I'm getting a Quaife QDF11J (AustinV70R on SwedeSpeed posted a howto). It is a fucked up install, since the ring gear is welded to the diff, but it needs to be done. More work on the exhaust. Got the tailpipe/resonator laid out & tacked after some back & forth. Since the Magnaflow's are loud, I'm adding a resonator I cut off the S40 AWD exhaust :D After that, I started on the exhaust hanger setup - left side. Volvo hangers of course. welded heavy wahers to the muffler pins to prevent the hanger walking sideways Right side Clearances all seem ok - has enough wiggle to not hit the chassis May need another hanger on the left front of the muffler or the rear side of the tailpipe, to keep the exhaust from rocking. The flex coupler allows a subtantial amount of tilt and twist. Not much clearance off the planned floor pan - may have to raise it RedTail (2.5"x3.5"x4") L exhaust tip - will be going on the SW chambered muffler/open tailpipe setup. I'm not expecting to leave the Magnaflow on. Have to figure out the header support - going to cut the ear off the old manifold, make an brace from that to the block or the rear MWB mount bracket to the header collector, whichever works. O2 sensor will go about here. Glad I didn't drill on the otherside where I was going to put it- that has insufficient clearance from the muffler now WBO2 sensor will go around here, probably at 12 o'clock, if it will clear the floor OK, don't want it inline with the other O2 After that I started on the replacement water passage - cut the flanges off more cleanly than the previous. Heater pipe welded - that went better than last time also. Rad hose outlet ('00 V70 :D) will be something like this - have to remove the old one first to confirm placement

Thank you. I haven't had bad weather to really check it out yet. The kinds of driving where the AWD shone was on the Parkway I commute on - it's 2 lane greenway divided, and floods really badly on the edge of the fast lane, perfect conditions for telling if the AWD is doing it's job. In dry driving, it really makes a difference in higher speed ramp driving & long sweeping uphills where you can feel the rear pushing in a good way. I'm really happy with it. Annoying stuff is the software - I haven't got really agressive with it & you do have to remember to turn off the DSTC or you just get front wheel spin. Since I'm relying on Hilton for tuning, I really doubt I will ever go beyond the K16, but you never know.... The X1/9 will be fun, since it's gonna be around 220WHP in a chassis that weighs maybe 2000lbs :) The funky business with that is I have to raise & lower the car onto the drivetrain, no other way to install it.

AWD has been functional since June, using the Gen 3 controller, so I didn't go further with a Arduino controller. May still investigate that once I'm done with the X1/9 work. I'd add pics in the C30 thread I had, but it's archived & no one responded to my unlocking requests.

You can use the S60R complete clutch & flywheel setup. Or hybrid like oblark. Sounds like the diff axle splines are wrong on the Diesel M66 though...

Unfortunately I can't give you much in specifics, I'm relying on someone who knows WTF they are doing to help me with schematics. Another C30Crew member who did the AWD conversion & has the non-functioning Haldex issue found this thread. That's what we are working off. That, and a couple videos to figure out wiring from: Here and Here

Pretty sure I still have a couple. I can check. Do you have the PN/ Casting # off yours for reference? Splines are good on mine.

Worked on the finish welds for the intake, built most of the header, and chopped up the parts car to make the test bed for K24 motor & custom dash projects Cone engineering merge collector & collector Blacked out the headlamps on the C30, and fitting Morimoto Bi-Xenon projectors. Just waiting for the SKBOWE kits for final install wetsanded and polished the lenses, not perfect but much better Modified housing & added extra socket so all wiring goes out with factory look Also gathering parts for the AWD conversion. M66 AWD with Quaife getting ready Broke down & bought the Volvo left axle puller. Going to build a Haldex controller, in the probable event the Gen3 controller doesn't work as it should

You know, I forgot about the axle :D - doesn't the '00 XC axle fit though? The R axle has different diff splines, that was the issue you had, correct?

Because the '99 AG sits further to the right, and the '00 DP & AG are offset further to the left so will hit the '99 AG unless modified.

Looks good! Side note, you could use a '00 AG in a '99, you'd just need the '00 right axle. Doesn't work the other way around (without additional mod), since the DP would be in the way.

Fixing Pic links

Congratulations, Matt!

Yeah, ain't that a bitch :(

Working on fixing the pics - starting from the beginning.

I have a B5234T short block from C70 of that vintage :D Bought from Maciek back then. Don't recall mileage precisely , my recollection is that it was 75K range. coated bores with grease 3 years ago when I stashed it after parting out the XR - I was going to use it.

Messy TIG. I don't have clean seams / junctions to weld here, and the thickness is on the upside of my machine's AMP rating, that's my rationale for the fugly welds, anyway :D

Bumping in case of Archive feature :D Any new developments?

The K24 has a longer runner 2-part (RBB) manifold - lower part with plenum visible here. Built for low & mid range torque, of which it has plenty. I want to maintain that. Some people swap a K20 head (and cams setup), PRB intake & run 9K redline to get max HP. I'd rather have the torque where I can use it for DD. Since the car only weighs 2000lbs (maybe less with all the steel I cut away), the power -to-weight ratio is pretty decent even with the stock 210BHP. The upper half has a sophisticated CC breather setup, akin to the RNC, just not at the head. I want to save that. This runner section is about 6". No room to add a large enough plenum directly to this, so I needed to tuck the plenum underneath. Overall length is just a little shorter than the stock arrangement.

Adding pics back into the thread, working backwards. My PB account is gone, along with any pics that were left in it. Hello Andy! I'm going to be using K-Tuner to set it up, so DTR I could add a turbo, etc., if I choose. The AWD dyno guy I used to use for the XR is a Honda Tuner, so he can dyno tune the K24 when I get to that place. I did have to make a major revison to the RBB intake in order for the TB setup to work. Fabricating water pipes to fit the X1/9 body side cooling setup - Using a C30 T/stat housing (bottom left) off a custom adaptor and a V70 T/stat cover welded to the upper housing (upper right) to replace the Honda bits...