Captain Bondo

Cool, sounds like you're starting to correlate engine load per the maps to actual boost, etc. which is pretty much the key. Yeah 14's at 10psi is pretty lean. I would add fuel and leave the timing advanced.

Afrs are looking pretty solid! What's with the 30.5 degrees of timing over that on stretch? Looks like it's at full boost there, 30.5 degrees doesn't make sense - maybe i'm reading it wrong. Otherwise it looks ok to me. Timing is in the low teens at 18psi for the most part which sounds about right. it's pulling timing mainly in the 4500-5500rpm range which is probably right around peak torque and right where i'd expect it to detonate. I almost think the 3-5 degrees of pull at peak torque there is probably the system doing its job.

Any news? Running better? How's it going?

That solder connection has either been screwed with or overheated. Maybe they had to touch it up at the factory, but that's not how it should look. It should look like the rest of the joints. There shouldn't be brown resin/heat marks all around it. This thread is a comedy of errors it would seem. :D

C16 is obviously burnt...

Yes.

You peak torque is at about 5100rpm. Now that you have a correct load signal you can 100% calculate there peak torque is. (Bonus, eh?). (In case you didn't know, peak torque will be where load/rpm results in the highest number.) This is of course assuming the timing is roughly correct. Also mass flow isn't falling off too hard at 6500. You could probably bump the redline up a bit. stuff can't edit my posts - that should say peak torque is where MASS FLOW/RPM is highest.

Have you re-scaled for the bigger maf housing yet? I'm interested to see how that works. Having fun is the most important, but part of what I find fun is hitting the dyno and getting quantifiable results that tell me if I have made progress or not. I can't wait.

What were the numbers like on Nick's car? I am guessing less than what was hoped, given that no one has been terribly forthcoming with them? I disagree that most cars are tuned without knowing the actual timing. Most tuning systems I know, be they standalones or chip tuners like Hondata, Crome, KPro, DSMlink, etc, allow you to actually command timing values. And any knock controls are adjustable or at the very least knock events can be datalogged with the software. Hopefully this newer TT will allow datalogging as well - if the software can do a map trace it can essentially make a datalog, it's not a major addition in that sense.

Kyle what do you mean appears to have been detonating? None of you guys at the dyno had any form of det cans? I always scratch my head when I hear about people doing dyno pulls without some type of det can setup. Most dyno shops have electronic ones you can clip to the block. Scary, man. JC I know what you're saying, but with no way to actually log knock events or play with the knock sensing routines or get any feedback from the engine with respect to what it is doing to the map, it's hard to see what is happening. The bottom line is the car is down on power to the sum of probably 100whp, and the logged timing and fuel values don't seem to correspond to those in the map, and there's no real indication as to why. That is a fault and should be fixed IMO otherwise the tune is by all accounts, useless. You can buy a too-rich, way under timed map off the shelf and put no time into it.

Hopefully they fix TT so you can actually control the timing while running higher boost levels. You shouldn't be limited to 20psi on a system that is in theory freely adjustable. That said, with everything set up right you should be able to do close to 350whp on 20psi. Over 300 for sure.

If you want to buy a more expensive plug that offers no performance advantage other than longevity, and is difficult to gap, fill your boots. The fact that it's used for OEM means all of absolutely nothing when it comes to tuning the motors to 1.5-2x their original specific output. The pressures temperatures involved, especially if detonation occurs, can be an order of magnitude higher. It will be rare to hear any competent tuner recommend anything but copper for a highly boosted app. Cheap, reliable, consistent, proven.

Having personally seen the aftermath of a platinum electrode breaking off in a combustion chamber, I'll pass. The benefit vs the risk is a terrible wager imo. You're on the right track anyways. Buy cheap copper plugs, gap them, change them when they wear out. It's a project car, not an appliance where the only goal is to pop the good as few times as possible over the course of a year. If you want that, buy platinum plugs and a stock beige toyota corolla to match them. :P

If you plan on less than 20psi I'd gap to around 0.025", if you plan on trying more than that and are having some blowout now I'd gap to around 0.022".

Yep 1 step colder. I'd definitely give them a go. Gap them on the tight side. Nothing worse than having blowout on the dyno.

Platinums are a no-no on any turbo car. I have run BKR7EIX in my car - they're ok. Run them if you don't have any coppers. Honestly BKR7E is the plug to run, though. Hussein how does it feel having timing back in the double digits? Good? EGT's lower?

*cue broken record* Installing a larger maf housing will eliminate the need to re-tune every time you change the boost. You would be saving yourself a lot of work in the long run if you would just put the MAF in a 3 pipe and re-scale everything. My MBC holds boost +/- 1 psi all the way to 7500rpm, from 4psi to 18psi. If you are using some wellfare ebay bleed valve etc then you're doing it wrong.My bet is that is the case. I wouldn't go too mujch further than Eric's tune without a dyno, that said I have about 3-5 more degrees than that at every point. And as far as knock feedback goes, you can make a set of det cans for about 8 bucks...

Absolutely not. There's nothing wrong with a good manual boost controller and in fact for initial setup on the dyno it's actually nice to take one electronic device out of the equation and keep things simple.

No dude, rick spikes when you snap the throttle shut on shifts are normal, every system does it to some degree depending on how the decel fuel cut is programmed. 13:1 is a little lean for 23psi? You are nuts. Not a chance I'd every tune a car for 13:1 at 23psi on pump. You're lucky the timing is so retarded. I wonder if it would advance the timing some more if it was so lean, and probably pinging.

That is why I am saying he should be troubleshooting these inconsistencies, rather than just trying to tune around them.

No I mean changing in your datalog. When the MAF goes to 100%, if you enter say 5 degrees in all of the RPM bins at 100, the timing should stay flat at 5 degrees but it's all over the place. Look at 4500 rpm and 5500rpm. There is a blip in the timing and a corresponding blip in the afr. That should not be happening.

The fact that afr and timing are changing together for no apparent reason is disturbing to me. If you set the whole 100% timing row to 5 degrees, timing should be rock solid. Did you ever figure out if you can log knoclk events? Have you verified the timing with a timing light? IMO it is best to approach this more form a troubleshooting perspective than a tuning perspective at this stage. You're not currently in control of the system.

Missed the question about my own car - I did absolutely nothing. Just a draft tube out of the breather box to atmosphere. No catch can no noting. Worked good. This time around I am going to throw the breather box in the garbage and run lines straight from the block to a catch can vented to atmo under the car and call it a day, just because I hate the breathe rbox. Haha it's leaner with less boost? That is messed up. Does it feel much faster/slower?

Yes 550 has it right. Basically wherever the ptc hose connects to the catch can, remove that hose and install a breather filter. With a filter on the breather there's no way you should have any mess or smell. Even if it isn't the main source of oil in the intake, reburning crank case gases is horrible for a performance app. That oil mist has a very low octane rating and is affecting your detonation threshold. I would just try it temporarily even, see if the amount of oil in the piping decreases.