Captain Bondo

That clip-in banjo fitting is the restrictive part in your pictures. Especially with that fitting there, increasing the fuel rail volume is accomplishing nothing. Notice that both my rail and the kpax rail, that fitting is deleted and replaced with a straight-through one. That fitting is the weak link.

If you're going to do that you should probably upgrade to -12 fuel lines while you're at it, since the rail is around 5/8" ID already. Since you seem to think you need 1000hp worth of fuel system for some reason...

That's what I said..

I can imagine the aftermarket rail can be somewhat more useable with the AN fittings instead of the proprietary volvo stuff when building an aftermarket fuel setup.

Extremely simple to just put aluminum AN fittings on an ME7 rail, though.

The ME7 style fuel rail is wide open inside. I can't see how it could be improved, or for that matter why it's need improvement. Mine worked fine with 1000cc injectors and 540whp...

I don't get why people are so bound and determined to run low z injectors to begin with... I guess maybe they're cheap.

Otherwise, form a performance standpoint I see no compelling reason to ever run them instead of a modern set of hi z injectors. The last 2 generations of bosch injectors have been hi z. If low z injectors were really worth bothering with, I think bosch would know... Just MO..

Ive never seen a white block make HP on a dyno graph over 7000rpm no matter what it had done.

Mine did when it had the T67 on it. Power was still climbing at 7500.

Well that's a relief if it's just the valve. On a 90mm stroke there's not much point is exceeding 7600rpm. Regardless of the valve train the piston speeds go past the typically max 25m/s recommended for any sort of street car.

Have you talked to southbend about a clutch? I am sure they'd sell you a 707 pressure plate with a custom disc. Then you could use with a "normal" flat flywheel - either a billet one with a 707 bolt pattern or a stock one with a redrill. Both the 707 and south bend have a good reputation. Mine was nowhere near slipping at 540whp/470ftlb

Just tell me how the f... Company as big as spec missed that little fact that springs can be pushed to far.

Parts they use are some cheap mexican junk . It probably has that globe logo on it.

To me, it looks more like that clutch it meant to be used with a normal flat flywheel. You can't slag Spec for that.

A slipping clutch under accel will not allow an over rev...MissIng a shift (from 4-3 instead of 4-5) will over rev and rev limiter will not stop the transmission from spinning the engine too fast..no matter what.

Absolutely. I don't think that's the scenario being claimed here, however.

Well I guess I'm just stupid then. You still haven't indicated how any rev limiter (on a Motronic ECU) is going to restrict the engine from free- revving if the clutch slips under load as mine did. As far as I can see, there is nothing that will prevent the engine from continuing to rev if the throttle is held open even for an instant once the clutch is no longer engaged..

You've gotta be shitting me. You seriously can't grasp that even free revving, if an engine is revving up, hits 8400rpm, and fuel is cut,

If I remember correctly Motronic uses Spark cut as its rev limiter, maybe fuel cut as a secondary hard limiter. Not sure if thats still the case with TT. I can see that the engine can maybe go 100-200 RPM past that but when spark is cut (and fuel) the engine will not rev higher (unless the fuel self ignites which it shouldn't).

I have three limiters set on MS and they all work and won't let me over rev the engine. I have a soft limiter that retards timing, then spark cut and fuel cut after that. It never gets to the fuel cut limiter.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but thats how I remember Motronic to handle the rev limiter.

Exactly. The flywheel does have some inertia, so in some cases it could be possible to get a 100-200rpm bump post-fuel cut - but it takes actual ENERGY input to accelerate the crankshaft, pistons, etc.In fact it takes energy even to hold them at a constant rpm. When you cut the fuel, it's like switching the key off. The engine speed is not going to continue to rise 1200rpm. I won't call you stupid, but if you actually think that the engine speed could continue to rise that much after cutting the fuel... you definitely don't have your head wrapped around the dynamics involved. 2-step rev limiters don't even cut fuel or spark completely, and they are able to hold an engine at a fixed rpm, they don't way overshoot. That would be ridiculous. Rev limiters in general would be basically pointless. When you cut the fuel, it's like hitting a wall.

That is quite possible, 20 psi on a large turbo + sudden slip of clutch/no connectivity to drivetrain could cause the revs to "teleport" north.

No. Just no. The engine won't "teleport" from 8400rpm to 9600rpm magically. The fact that apparently no one here even grasps what happens when you cut the fuel to an engine... there's just no facepalm that's even sufficient.

stuff T!!! yeah slipping of the clutch would explain the 9600rpm. Spec clutch?

Huh? You can't blame clutch slip for the motor over revving dude. The rev limiter will enforce the rev limit, clutch slip or not. Assuming it is set appropriately, of course.

A bent valve AND bearing issues? I assume that logged 9600rpm is some kind of error. If not, well of course you killed it.

Ick. Here's hoping it's something clutch/flywheel related - would explain the clutch issues and also it's better than an engine fatality. Good luck!

I can see the pics of it. Relatively speaking, that tank is flat. Trust me.

So basically, you have removed the level sensor, installed it inside the frame rail so you can't tell how much is in there at a glance, and made it shallower.

That is a seriously bad combination of mods right there, bud. If it does slosh away while you are accelerating at full boost and you lose methanol flow? What are you going to do about it? The nice thing about having the level sensor is once it's at the "slosh" level. the idtio light flashes when you go around corners, etc.

In your scenario the warning system is another dead piston, i guess....

Weee!

Be sure to put your pickup hose at the rear bottom of the tank so you dont run dry while accelerating. I am sure you know that but just say'in. Cool idea but I am worried you'll find yourself filling that every few days.

Agreed. A shallow, flat tank like that is a bad plan.Once it's 1/2 full or less the meth will tend to "slosh" away from the pick up.

Looks rad, I almost think you could ditch the "grille" in the bottom and just have exposed intercooler.

Great progress!!!

I think those manifolds are going to make you want to run up to 8000

*Cue broken record*

I still don't get why the first order of business is to crank the boost and wind it out to a telephone number.

This thing could have gotten a standalone and proper tune and be making way better numbers, It underperforms and adding more oddball parts is not going to help.

This thing should get a proper baseline tune at 12psi revving to 6500rpm. If it can't break 300whp at 12psi revving to 6500 it's broken.

I'm not trying to downplay the work and cash being invested, but this build is just... wierd... priorites seem way off kilter.

You want the % that it is larger than your existing housing,

so it should be

% difference: 4596.35 - 3959.19 = 637.16 / 3959.19 = 16.09% difference

Also while we're being picky the units are mm^2 not cm^2. ;)

If it's not noticeably richer spraying meth then it's not working. Or whatever wiper fluid you have doesn't have much meth in it.

It will read rich with the meth. Meth is fuel.

I would buy methyl hydrate and mix your own, so you know you are getting a consistent ratio.

What's the story with the ME7 tuning? Some sort of piggyback? Is there a thread on it?

Yep. I would say once you pass 350-375ft/lb it's time to think about using something else. The 707 is awesome.

My R clutch was totally fine at 400whp. It didn't slip at 450whp either but I din't drive it much making that power, as one of the straps on the pressure plate broke due to foreign object damage.