mdlimy

You know how to tune, that is more than 50% of the task at hand. In my opinion you could have that car dialed in making the numbers you want in no time with a real standalone ems. All the tweaking i am seeing you do with m4.4 is much more complicated than the tuning i ever did with megasquirt and vems. I know you have good reasons for not converting to standalone, i just want you to know that i do truly believe it would be a walk in the park for you with all the tuning skills you have developed over these several years. I can come and go from vs over months and years and still always come back to this thread if i want to see real progress

needs more Vems hehe

with all the time and money invested in that setup i think you might have been better off coughing up the money for a nice aeromotive inline and running some nice size fuel lines....but hindsight is always 20-20 Nice work H, you deserved those dyno numbers more than anyone else and i'm glad your back on track, making headway. I'm sure you got a big confidence boost out of it!

Let the fun begin Thanks for the heads up on the rustoleum silver paint, shot my master cylinder with it and its the perfect color, gonna do an etch on the block and spray it!

I'm a strong believer that adjusting the waste gate actuator arm should NEVER be done to adjust the overall level of boost. H is right, you will never be able to make less boost than what the actuator is set to open at.

steering wheel looks great! I bet your iching to drive this thing...its been under the knife for a while now. Now imagine how i feel =p

Hey mister, you have a tig welder now, no more of that brazing shit!

i ran a fairly new euro 850r clutch on my 850 with an hrc 20g at 17psi, 302/405 and not once did it slip, like i said before, it might have something to do with the way other people drive and how well the clutch is broken in.

Nice!

Like H said, check the size of be bolt, even if you used the right one try fitting a longer one, sometimes there is more thread left in the hole and it might be enough. You have two options if the hole is stripped, redrill and tap for larger bolt and drill out the hole in the water pipe or redrill and tap for a helicoil. Job weld won't work. One other option, it's ghetto but it will probally work. Find a bolt that is slightly larger than the current one used, preferably a courser thread, force it into the hole by pushing very hard and wind it in with an air ratchet, this will force it to cut its own threads in the aluminum. It's good for a one time fix normally.

Just so you know for future reference, if you rotated the cam and felt a valve kiss the piston, rotate the cam back slightly and turn the crank slightly, you can keep "shuffling" them until you get the cam in the position you want, you wont hurt a valve by turning the motor over by hand, as long as you go slow and feel for resistance you will be ok, if you really want to be safe just pull the spark plugs then there is no guessing wheather you are feeling compression or a valve, but honestly its kinda hard to NOT know when a valve hits the piston. btw, make sure you install the cvvt hubs properly, per the manual. They can be a real pooper sometimes =p

just turn the cam....it does rotate inside the head ya know....

Can i say i told you so? Keep up the good work!

for anyone in the portland area looking for an R manifold, cheap and no shipping...

sorry its occupied