mdlimy

would be a hell of a lot easier to have the block media blasted...done the wire wheel thing, not too fun.

nice progress, i agree with ben, the ammount of work you get done is outstanding! Nice to see that hackzall worked out, its great for smaller stuff like cutting ecus haha! Whats the deal with the ard ecu for use with the vems? is that so you can piggy back with the vems and not have a cel or have the stock ecu freak out? robbie nice progress, i agree with ben, the ammount of work you get done is outstanding! Nice to see that hackzall worked out, its great for smaller stuff like cutting ecus haha! Whats the deal with the ard ecu for use with the vems? is that so you can piggy back with the vems and not have a cel or have the stock ecu freak out? robbie

can we give you a nickname? how about "etcha sketch" =p i love your diagrams, by far my favorite part about this forum. Looks like you need to bring that wastegate out and up a bit. Robbie

oooooo nathan is making you an intake eh? he does beautiful work, you want me to test it for you? what happened with your manifold you made?

what else is needed? torque and correct gearing. speaking of which, whats the situation with gearing?

Does anyone make stainless valves for out heads? That would be a nice upgrade for you... but damn I can't wait to see the datalog of you winding this thing all the way up to 8500 :lol:

that definetly sucks but you are also very very lucky i would also question the quality of the other valves, and with the head out i would replace every one of them with oem valves once and for all. on a good note, once you get that fixed this thing is gonna scream up top, finally im suprised your not using an oem headgasket, thats about the one thing i never buy aftermarket lol.

i was just curious if others are having the same issue with 4.4 cop tt, not questioning the ipd coils. Have you logged timing to make sure it is the same as before the cop install? get a timing light on it also...

are you the only one running COP m4.4 TT? adjustable dwell?

now thats what we need to see, an RN motor...well kinda lol. time for some real numbers. so jealous of the two oil caps, btcc style!

wow one tooth to make contact, scary. pretty safe to say the cam gear just moved and caused the contact eh? a bit off topic but what is your coolant temp at full operating temp after the RN head swap?

You need to invest in a ac tig welder! With the ammount of soldering you do you would be great in no time ;)

Not sure if you mentioned it but did you rev the motor high at all? Just wondering if maybe the new cams caused some valve float, that is something that could cause the pistons to hit valves but not when turning over by hand. Or something to that extent. I can understand that kenny would think the pistons hitting the valves occured first which then caused the cam gear to move but I really can't see it stripping out the bolts...if the cam gear just moved it would be a different story but the bolts stripping, that is just bizzar. Also are you running heavier valve springs?

Wtf how does a steel hub like that strip, is it pretty thin? So the enem cams worked ok tho? the problem area didn't give any issues?

Lame. This was stock cams with arrons solid cvvt hubs? The 3 bolts that hold the gear to hub are what you are talking about, correct?

another fail point of tt, sorry to hear =[ well good luck, hopefully we see some good news soon.

I was under the impression you were having timing pulled from the knock sensors being to sensitive, if it truely is knock then you just need to completly tone down the ign map and work your way up on a load dyno, you will won't tune that ign map succesfully on the street.

Assuming you are up for the option of disabling the knock sensors what do you think about this.... Removing them completly and or unplugging them will cause the ecu to probally pull timing the whole time, but how about removing both, torque a bolt and nut with washers on both knock sensors to oem torque specs, run a ground wire of course so the ecu thinks they are hooked up then set them out of the way somewhere away from any vibrations and noises they could pick up. Its worth a shot and I would defietly give it a shot if I was in your position, you will instantly see what happens in your timing logs...

What I meant ;)

+1 You need to get on a load dyno that the operator will let you dial into every load cell and tune your ign perfectly, some dynojets can, dynodynamics can and the best would be dynapack(if you can find one it will cost you some money but it is without a doubt the best way to tune), not sure about mustangs, but if you can find one that's only 2wd it would be worth it tune fwd for the time being. Can you disable the knock sensors completly? If you can I would strongly reccomend it, use the detcans you have and start conservative on timing and you will quickly find out what timing your motors likes and doesn't like at every load range, seriously tho get on a load dyno without the knock sensors. Fyi majority of tuners don't ever use knock sensors at all. Also consider running a standalone ems but as a piggy back to your stock ecu to retain your functions you would lose when gutting the stock ecu. I like my new vems unit, it works well, much better unit than megasquirt and you could easily wire into the stock harness with the stock ecu and never know its in the car...just a possibilty. You may not be at the limits of 4.4 yet but don't you think you will reach them eventually?