mojojo

i saw pretty solid gaines by matching the N manifold to the RN gasket. surely you picked some up too.

RIP

Looks awesome!

If its alright with John, I can just pick mine up from him. Or, for the sake of keeping things simple, I can go along with the shipping prefferences of the majority. Either way, I've yet to send final payment for shipping. I'm assuming you'll pm me with details when its necessary. Thanks again for your hardwork!

I understand. No hurry from me - take your time. Life is important, too.

I would like mine to be switchable please. option #3

Wow. I'm with the other jealous guy.

I would just reseal the pump. I wouldn't worry about replacing timing components either. I've been fighting a leak in the same vicinity lately... I may have it resolved, but I need to take the car in for alignment before I drive much on the new tires. Do the job on a cold engine, Jack up just the passenger side, and I would think most oil should gravitate to the opposite side, spilling very little... At least that would beat covering the car in oil. I've been really concerned with contaminating the rubber in the right side mount, causing premature failure... Shared you get the hose for the oil lines?

This is my life right now. When I had the pan off to replace the sump o-rings in my car, I pinched the o-ring for the oil thermostat ever so slightly. This wasn't enough of a leak to drip, but it did wet the bottom of the pan. Like you, I also replaced the front crank seal, and the oil wasn't that high up, so I went back to the thermostat. I did notice when removing one of the two fasteners for the thermostat, there was oil on the threads of the bolt. Because the fasteners are placed outside the o-ring, the presence of oil there confirmed the oil leak's location. Initially, I coated the o-ring in grease, but it must have shifted slightly during installation. On the next attempt, I let the car sit overnight with the thermostat off the car - allowing any oil to drain. Then I cleaned the area thoroughly and coated the o-ring in a tacky layer of RTV sealant... thinking this would better hold it in place. So far so good... with the oil leak anyways. LOL!

I'm very interested as well. Add me to the list, please.

What a great feeling it must be, to complete all of those repairs at once. ...and of course, now you get to focus on what's left. Eh. I have had really strange no-start issues with faulty fuel pump relays. Usually, its after a good drive and restart, that the car won't start. After the first time, I disassembled the relay and found faulty solder joints. I repaired the relay and keep it in the car now, along with a handful of other failed (and repaired) electrical parts... lol.

Too bad about the evaporator. I just wrapped up a heater core job on my 850. I installed new hoses, a Behr heater core, and new firewall junction. My Behr heater core did not come with new o-rings. I was able to get them locally, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good source close to me. If I was ordering on line, I'd order extras just in case.

Yes, you are correct. I don't know how I was mixed up with that...

Rule of thumb, is normally, loose valves cause noise (as the tappet comes off the cam/rocker arm). However, I have had personal experience with tight valves causing noise (though, not on a Volvo engine). With that, I'll give you some maybe-not-so-necessary advice. Try to get your hands on a stethoscope. You will use it now, and forever, when attempting to diagnose a noise. When I'm hunting a noise, one thing that I observe is the pace of the noise. The faster pace (because camshafts turn faster than crankshafts) points in one direction, and vice versa. Since you're into the top-end of your engine, I'll assume you've heard what a loose valve sounds like. Is the noise similar? Usually, when my ears hear a top-end noise, I would describe it as a clank. When I hear a bottom-end failure, I would use the word clunk - there's more metal behind the noise.

Fwiw, whenever I've had to install keepers (in any head - including these), I've found it pretty easy using a small, thin flat blade screw driver and dipping the tip of the screw driver in a bit of assembly lubricant (something with a grease like consistency) and just letting that hold the keeper. Like this, I've never actually lost a keeper, in a head. Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope, to hopefully, get a more accurate location on the sound?