mojojo

i saw pretty solid gaines by matching the N manifold to the RN gasket. surely you picked some up too.

RIP

Looks awesome!

On 5/5/2016 at 11:17 PM, bob82pigdog said:

The black ones give you more powah!

If its alright with John, I can just pick mine up from him.  

Or, for the sake of keeping things simple, I can go along with the shipping prefferences of the majority.

Either way, I've yet to send final payment for shipping.  I'm assuming you'll pm me with details when its necessary.

Thanks again for your hardwork!

I understand.

No hurry from me - take your time.  Life is important, too.

I would like mine to be switchable please.

option #3

Wow.

I'm with the other jealous guy.

I would just reseal the pump.  I wouldn't worry about replacing timing components either.

I've been fighting a leak in the same vicinity lately... I may have it resolved, but I need to take the car in for alignment before I drive much on the new tires.

Do the job on a cold engine, Jack up just the passenger side, and I would think most oil should gravitate to the opposite side, spilling very little... At least that would beat covering the car in oil.  I've been really concerned with contaminating the rubber in the right side mount, causing premature failure...

Shared you get the hose for the oil lines?

11 hours ago, tuner4life said:

I'm now driving this semi-daily and trying to work out any remaining issues. 

-I noticed that there is an oil leak at the right side. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it's coming from the rectangle shaped seal for the oil cooler line housing. Could be the lines themselves, but it didn't really look like it. I already changed that seal but it was a pita getting it to stay put so certainly possible it didn't seat correctly.  Very small chance that it is the crank seal, but I replaced that with new OEM, so I'm doubtful it's the issue. I'm going to change the oil again soon and I'll replace that seal and the cooler line o-rings and see what happens. Maybe I'll get lucky.

This is my life right now.

When I had the pan off to replace the sump o-rings in my car, I pinched the o-ring for the oil thermostat ever so slightly.  This wasn't enough of a leak to drip, but it did wet the bottom of the pan.  Like you, I also replaced the front crank seal, and the oil wasn't that high up, so I went back to the thermostat.  I did notice when removing one of the two fasteners for the thermostat, there was oil on the threads of the bolt.  Because the fasteners are placed outside the o-ring, the presence of oil there confirmed the oil leak's location.

Initially, I coated the o-ring in grease, but it must have shifted slightly during installation.  On the next attempt, I let the car sit overnight with the thermostat off the car - allowing any oil to drain.  Then I cleaned the area thoroughly and coated the o-ring in a tacky layer of RTV sealant... thinking this would better hold it in place.  So far so good... with the oil leak anyways.  LOL!

I'm very interested as well.

Add me to the list, please.

What a great feeling it must be, to complete all of those repairs at once.

...and of course, now you get to focus on what's left.  Eh.

I have had really strange no-start issues with faulty fuel pump relays.  Usually, its after a good drive and restart, that the car won't start.  After the first time, I disassembled the relay and found faulty solder joints.  I repaired the relay and keep it in the car now, along with a handful of other failed (and repaired) electrical parts... lol.

Too bad about the evaporator.

I just wrapped up a heater core job on my 850.  I installed new hoses, a Behr heater core, and new firewall junction.  My Behr heater core did not come with new o-rings.  I was able to get them locally, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good source close to me.  If I was ordering on line, I'd order extras just in case.

Yes, you are correct.

I don't know how I was mixed up with that...

Rule of thumb, is normally, loose valves cause noise (as the tappet comes off the cam/rocker arm).

However, I have had personal experience with tight valves causing noise (though, not on a Volvo engine).

With that, I'll give you some maybe-not-so-necessary advice. 

Try to get your hands on a stethoscope.  You will use it now, and forever, when attempting to diagnose a noise.

When I'm hunting a noise, one thing that I observe is the pace of the noise.  The faster pace (because camshafts turn faster than crankshafts) points in one direction, and vice versa.

Since you're into the top-end of your engine, I'll assume you've heard what a loose valve sounds like.  Is the noise similar?  Usually, when my ears hear a top-end noise, I would describe it as a clank.  When I hear a bottom-end failure, I would use the word clunk - there's more metal behind the noise.

Fwiw, whenever I've had to install keepers (in any head - including these), I've found it pretty easy using a small, thin flat blade screw driver and dipping the tip of the screw driver in a bit of assembly lubricant (something with a grease like consistency) and just letting that hold the keeper.  Like this, I've never actually lost a keeper, in a head.

Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope, to hopefully, get a more accurate location on the sound?

I just can't get on board with new bike prices. We really wanted to get a 4-seater RZR but there's no way in hell I'm getting a toy that comes with a car note. Even the entry level machines are around $5k now. I remember my first ATC 110 was only $495 brand new...yeah that was 1983, but it's still insane.

I'm pulling the carb tonight and adjusting the valves. It needs to be cleaned and rejetted anyway, I'm going to order a billet choke plate tomorrow when I order jets. I'm not sure If I'm a fan of the Supertrapp or not. It isn't obnoxiously loud, but it is loud and at the same time it's kinda cool because it's so old.

People buying these RZR 1000 crews are paying more for their machine than I pay for my house/per month (I don't live in a shack either)... and they're usually broken or need major repairs within the first six months.

My poor, Bandit - only good for toting the front wheel. I don't get to ride nearly as much as I'd like (needing a car seat 24/7)...

I bought this bike from the dealership I was at up North, for $1500. It came in as a trade and needed some attention in a few areas. It was cheap, and keeps me on two wheels. It sits in the garage now, but I refuse to sell it - I've gone without before, and won't do that again... even though I get to ride other bikes all the time (as a technician).

Sadly I became what I wanted to be as a child but its not paying the bills right now so I may have to figure out something else.

This. Though I wanted to work on motorcycles, and build choppers before OCC was around, it's not helping now.

...Though, I did just get hired over the phone at a dealer across the country, now I'm selling most of my things and packing up my wife and two month old daughter, to go live the dream... again. B)

Honest answer or typical photo forum answer?

Sure, honest answer or criticism... won't hurt my feelings.

My wife employed the lady after we met (I work on her husbands three Harleys at my house), and wanted to do some pictures with our new baby.

Bottom line: My wife's happy with the pictures, so that makes me happy with the pictures.

But, besides that, what do you think?

More dog pictures, forgot about these...

(dog in the street walking by)

Baby shots, better late than never.

Some are mine, and some belong to a friend ( llemichellephotography.com/ )

Mom and baby

Daddy (me) holding baby (small baby + big hands)

5lbs 10.6oz

Nursery plus scale

The (seeming so ) obligatory dog shot:

There's hundreds of baby pictures, thanks to my wife... but I don't think everyone would like to see everyone, so just shared some of my favorites. If you can see any difference in quality, it's because pictures I took were with a Rebel and pictures Lesa (owner of the company above) uses a D3X.

So, what do you think?

Typo: ellemichellephotography.com/

Thanks