boxpin

Swapping the trans. Mainly because I smoked the clutch. How can one smoke a clutch with a 707? It was my first full launch with launch control. The car would not move, just roasted the clutch, How. Coming soon:

Getting new tires and noticed that the control arms are moving. Turns out those poly mounts have worn out. Lasted about a year. Replacing with Powerflex. Then I spotted some extra venting on my rotor.

Yep, I have tried two M56H and I didnt like either one. Found my happy place with the L. Its a quarter car but first its my daily driver so nice, quiet, low RPM freeway trips are important to me. Plus, with the HP to push the car taller gears are not a problem.

Added a few more goodies. New injectors engine torque damper Took it apart to see whats up. I had a bent rim so I went to the Volvo wrecker to pick up a new tethys. I have been searching for a M56L w/3.77 diff which is a needle in a haystack. I told them what I wanted and they said they only had one manual trans and its been sitting on the shelf in the back corner for 2 years. He said it was a M56L....things got exciting. We walked back there an to my surprise it was M56L w/3.77 diff with 80k on it. I wanted to stick it in my pocket right there. They cut me a deal for both the wheel and trans and I left super happy.

Me too.

Are you running e85 or gas? That compression seems very low and would have a lot of trouble kicking over.

I dont have any clips yet but will work on that. Here is an old one with the Magnaflow, I think I had an Aero muffler in the suitcase then, cant remember.

It was obvious actually. It got louder. Not by much but obvious.

Got the second exhaust tip piped.

They are stock. I want to be able to run steelies at the drags so I dont think I can go to 302s. I am probably going to have to live with it. Man they stunk after two runs.

Swapped out the plugs today, trying out the Bosch F5DPOR's. The little suckers are expensive. Did a compression test while I was at it...180 across the board. Retapped the meth jet and then went out for a stroll to get Aaron some more logs. Found out quickly that I need better brakes. Hard to bring that thing back down to a stop.

Back on the road and purring like a kitten.

Oil Pump Talk: I ran across this description of the different Oil Pumps. Is there a physical/visual way to tell which pump is which? The below is talking about the B5234T Engine: The high power output has placed greater demands on the engine lubricating system and cooling. The following have been changed in comparison to the other 5-cylinder engines: -The oil pump capacity has been increased by a wider pump wheel and a modified profile. -The relief valve has a more rigid spring and opens at 6 bars of pressure (B5254's opens at 5 bar). I want to make sure I am running the higher capacity pump but unfortunately I dont know what I grabbed when I assembled the car. Does anyone have access to these two pumps and can say whether they are visually different from the outside casting?

Nope To general but close Yes! send me your email address. I could keep this going but I will stop it because I doubt anyone would guess that it was one of those blue paper shop towels sucked up into the sump. I dont know how it got there but I used those to plug holes so dirt couldnt get in. I guess I forgot one somewhere and it eventually plugged the sump.

Nope

Nope Nope

Pan is pulled, ENGINE IS OK!!!!! $20 to the person who guesses what caused it and its not the obvious. Let the games begin.

If it spun the rod is shot or the block is shot. Cant just throw a new set in there. Although I only ran it for about 30 seconds after this all started. Answer to second question: Yep I have been trying to think positive and possible reasons for an oil pressure drop. Here are some ideas: 1. Oil pump gasket failure. Oil is cavitating between the intake and pressure side. 2. Oil pump is the wrong pump, could be from an N/A that I had in the garage. 3. Oil pump pressure release spring broke 4. Oil pump pressure release valve not closed. 5. Sump seal (even though its new) 6. Mid block seal failure blowing oil out of the anaerobic sealant. 7. Seal blew out at the small pipe in the pan that runs to the cooler 8. Bad sending unit Its been 100deg+ every day so there has been zero drive to pull the pan.

Drained the oil and checked the filter...not a spec of metal anywhere. Nothing on the magnetic drain plug either.

CRAP!!!! Oil like wont go off. I made a couple wot runs in 3rd gear. Everything was fine. Drove back to work, shut it off. Fired it back up after lunch and the light stayed on longer than normal then shut off. Hmmm, didnt like that so I shut it off and started it again. Light went off. Went out to listen to the engine and when I got back in the light was on. Rev'ed a little bit and it went off but back at idle it came back on again. Now it stays on all the time. Engine still sounds fine but I am not driving it like that. Thoughts????

uhhh, no. Took the FMIC out today and piped the DO88.

Ben, your not off topic, really you need to hear it. It went from no noise to scary.

Ha, havent switched over yet.

Since I read that its been determined that my trans is toast. Searching for a new one. I am still running a ClutchNet product just not the 6 button.

Dual exhaust time