Volvo5.0

You can't just remove the "valve cover" to replace all the valves. The head has to come off.

The switch from 7mm to 6mm valve stems happened around '99 - '00 so your motor should already have the 6mm valves. OEM valves are very pricey and hopefully, IF it's bent valves, it's the intakes that are bent. The exhaust valves were twice as much as the intakes (like $60 a piece) last time I checked Korruption is right, double check EVERYTHING before pulling the head.

Check compression.

I suggested an airpump to help with crankcase ventilation a couple of years ago (check page 40 of this thread). Hope it works out. Does the pump need to operate continuously or is crankcase pressure only a problem when you are in boost? Maybe you could wire it into a boost pressure switch like this one http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=09&feature_key=Boost_Switch,parts,smart_injection

If you could have the codes read with the Volvo System Tester (VST) you would have a better idea what's causing the problem. There are 4 specific Volvo codes that get lumped together as the generic P0410 code. Knowing the exact code would point you in the right direction.

Do you have any pictures of the diode soldered into the wiring harness? Diode pointing the right way? Tapped into the correct wires? Should look like this....

I doubt you will be disappointed with a better intercooler. Go for it!! For grins I logged a few pulls yesterday, and averaged about 5° above AMBIENT at the end of the pulls. For comparison I was seeing increases of 25-30° above ambient with my previous intercooler. I'd be curious also to know the temps on the hotside coming out of my turbo. I don't know how it would compare to yours, but probably safe to say my "little" K24 running at 22psi is pushing some hot air :lol:

Very impressive 60-120 time! Did you get the ME7 IAT sensor calibrated correctly or are you still using the GM one? When you mention the IAT's still rise 25°, are you talking above ambient temps?

Just my guess, but I bet the addition of WI and a better IC will net you a VERY noticeable reduction in IAT's.

Very nice!

I see 8960rpm in your log. I wonder if there's an issue with the rev limiter in TT when you have it set to 8K. You said it hit the limiter when you had it set to 7600, so apparently it works OK when you have it set there.

I bought one recently to record fishing trips. Just now started playing around with it on the car. I'm not sure how much better the Hero 2 is compared to the original Hero, but if you don't mind last years model, you can get a decent price here...http://www.bhphotovi...s=REG&A=details

Sucks Hussein. Hopefully you'll be able to salvage most of your investment. Looking at your logs when the clutch was slipping, it really doesn't look like the rev limiter even attempted to cut fuel. I'm sure most have felt it, but this is what the log looks like when fuel is cut.... I know with the big turbo, custom intake, and big cams the car probably feels sweet winding out to 8400rpm, and sounds amazing. My question, which could have been answered if the car had made it to the dyno at Carlisle is....Are you really making power all the way up to 8400rpm?

960 schematic for SAS delete......

You've been using TT a lot longer than I have, so are you're comparing it to your previous logs? What I've noticed on my logs is that at part load, my AFR's do exactly what yours are doing. Looks like the ECU is trying to maintain stoich (until you really put a load on the engine), bouncing around in the 14.7 range. I just assumed that was normal, because as soon as put a higher load on the engine, AFR's respond by going richer. I agree it's too rich under load, but you'll get that straight I'm sure.

Yeah, I only tested it on 850/X70's, but in theory it should work also with 960's and S/V90's. I just looked at the schematic for the 960/SV90, and it looks like the pinouts are the same.

I'm away a couple of days fishing, and all of this has been accomplished when I get back. AMAZING!

May want to use the stock washer reservoir for the meth. and using the "cut down" tank for washer fluid. The original reservoir also has the level sensor that will warn you when the meth is low.

The SAS mod works on cars with Motronic 4.4. '96 was a split year, turbos were all M4.3 (I think) and N/A's could go either way. Don't think M4.3 used an air pump. If the car has an air pump, it's M4.4 and the mod should work.

Both ways for comparison.....

A lot of talk about the '04 and later engines having "better" internals. I know your using RSI rods for your build, and I would too considering your goals, but could you post a picture of the stock rod from the '04 engine next to the stock rod from the '98. Do they really have more "beef" to them, or is it just a myth?

Here's Kristian's thread...... Look at post #78

Pretty sure it was Kristian, look through his thread.

That's a bummer There's no doubt you'll be back.....I'm sure the new build thread will be bigger and badder than ever! :tup:

Wouldn't it be a "perfect world" if we all could... Looks like you got a few other goodies also :lol: