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Volvo5.0

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Everything posted by Volvo5.0

  1. Volvo5.0
    Yeah, if it's a '98 it will be Motronic 4.4. The computer in the middle location is the ECU.
  2. Volvo5.0
    You'll quickly forget about the delays and frustrations once you get it together and start driving it :tup:
  3. Volvo5.0
    Looks like you're about ready. You know the weather is looking pretty good for Thursday and Friday :D
  4. Volvo5.0
    Wow, sounds like you REALLY got your money's worth out of the $1.00 mod!!! Seriously, I would say anyone considering doing this, DON'T yank everything related to the air pump until you've driven the car for awhile. Do the mod, disconnect the connector at the air pump, drive the car until you're satisfied that the codes are gone, THEN rip it all out! If you don't get the results you want, then just snip out the diode. You've only wasted a buck :D
  5. Volvo5.0
    Is COP for TT in production or are you doing some kind of "beta" testing???
  6. Volvo5.0
    Interesting....... The 2 cars I've done the mod to have been fine, so I don't know I'd love to see a car that set an evap code after doing the mod. I can force an evap test with the VST and can watch as the test is run. I'd be able to see what's going on.
  7. Volvo5.0
    Possibly a coincidence. I can tell you that by far Evap codes account for most of the CEL's that I see :lol:
  8. Volvo5.0
    SAS and Evap are two entirely different systems. Removing SAS components won't cause the car to set an Evap code.
  9. Volvo5.0
    Yeah, that's the one ....9454743
  10. Volvo5.0
    You'll want to use the older style cam sensor. Like Hussein said, the cam sensor and distributor pieces have tabs that will locate them to the cams, so you don't really need the engine on TDC to install them. The groove in the cam is offset as well as the tabs on the sensor piece. Just make sure they go together properly and you're good to go....
  11. Volvo5.0
    On some engines the marks are REALLY faint, but I've always been able to find them. Just sometimes I need to break out the reading glasses The marks definitely aren't cut as deep as they are on the earlier engines.
  12. Volvo5.0
    Sometimes the marks are REALLY hard to see Since the gears aren't keyed to the cam in any way, it really doesn't matter. Once the cams are locked from the rear, you can install the gear/hub assy in any position, and mark them yourself for future reference. Just make sure you know "your" marks in case the factory marks re-appear :D
  13. Volvo5.0
    I'm having a flashback!! My hands are still aching from polishing my manifold :(
  14. Volvo5.0
    I hear you! I ended up way over budget I think modifying the cover is definitely the easiest, most cost effective way around this obstacle, and looks just fine. I was just pointing out that Daniel's option 3 would need a few extra parts. :)
  15. Volvo5.0
    You would need the alt. and a/c compressor that go with the newer style bracket also. The alt. and a/c comp. mount different on the newer accessory bracket.
  16. Volvo5.0
    Looking good. I guess I'm lucky I had the whole car that my engine came from so mine didn't require any modifications. Looks like you got it worked out though. Since that coolant pipe runs together with the breather pipe, and it's all insulated, I'm thinking maybe it helps to keep condensation from forming in the breather pipe. Kind of like the idea of the heater in the ptc.
  17. Volvo5.0
    I looked at a couple of mount brackets that I have. Johann is correct, the '99 and '00 mount bracket will definitely work. Here is the PN-9186828
  18. Volvo5.0
    Kristian, I sent you a PM
  19. Volvo5.0
    I didn't have any issues with the front mount on the '00 engine, but I looked at an '01 today in the shop and it does have a different mount bracket on the engine that has the hole for the hydraulic mount shifted to the drivers side. I would say use the mount bracket from the '98, but according to Black T5M it won't bolt to the '02 engine? :unsure:
  20. Volvo5.0
    I've replaced a fair share of the 240 rear cam seals It would actually be kinda nice if that seal would blow out on the whiteblock motors when the pcv gets clogged. Unfortunately these motors just start puking oil from the front seals :o
  21. Volvo5.0
    I've seen it both ways. The head I'm using only had the outer cap :unsure:
  22. Volvo5.0
    I don't think you'll have a problem using the 99+ pump. We use the same steering rack on a '98 S/V70 as we use on a '99-'00.
  23. Volvo5.0
    The solenoid is #18 in the picture PN 1270389. The relay is PN 9442933 and is located in the relay box under the hood.
  24. Volvo5.0
    If you can get your hands on the tool and the solid hub, you're good to go..... Set the motor to TDC and lock the cams with the lock tool. Remove the VVT hub. Take the gear off the VVT hub and bolt it to Aaron's solid hub, with the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gear (allows for fine tuning the cam timing). With the cams still locked install the solid hub with the gear attached. Put the plastic cover on and line the mark on the gear with the mark on the cover. Torque the center bolt to 120 Nm. Install the t-belt. Done!
  25. Volvo5.0
    Kristian, you're really going to need a way to lock the cams at TDC at the rear after you take off the cam sensor and piece that bolts to the rear of the cam. I mean taking it apart won't be a problem since you have an impact. You can just zap the 55 torx bolt off of the VVT hub.. But there is nothing locating the hub to the cam, so when it goes back together the cam needs to be at TDC and the hub needs to be tightened at TDC also. Then since the gear that bolts to the hub has 3 slotted holes, you can play around with the cam timing if you want.
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