Volvo5.0

The later style aluminum housing is slightly wider than the early style metal housing. So when it's all put together the metal sleeve that slides inside the 2 half's of the mount, comes up a little short (maybe a 1/4"). As wide as the lip is on the poly mount that I have, I'm sure each side of it could be narrowed slightly. Either that or add a spacer to the metal sleeve so it extends fully through the mount. The metal strut from the firewall does fits nicely over the mount even though it's slightly wider.... WOW Kristian!!! That was a nasty oil leak! I'm sure that new engine will never look like that :D

I saw Neu's post about the lack of choices for the newer style upper engine mounts. I was messing around after work today and it looks like if you take the "guts" out of the newer style round mount but leave the outer ring in the housing that the early style (98 and earlier) mount will fit perfectly inside....

The early cam sensor should bolt on no problem.... The only modification I needed to do was enlarge the hole on the back of the cam to accept the piece that bolts on the cam sensor....

The white 855 is my sons. His car is much cleaner than my S70 so I used his picture in my sig He got a new (used) engine a few weeks ago when his engine developed a rod knock The engine I'm building is going in my S70. The engine is ready, I'm just waiting on a buddy to pull the trans out of a junk car he has so I can get the flywheel I need. Didn't realize you were doing a manual swap also. Looks like you've got your work cut out for you :lol:

That's a VERY familiar sight to me as well. Almost the same car

WOW a month off.... I'm so jealous I've been staring at my engine for the last month, hoping soon I'll have time to install it. Sounds like a fun way to spend your vacation time....although I'm sure a cruise would have probably been cheaper Have fun!

'96-'98 850's and S/V70's with Motronic 4.4

Motronic 4.4 can be tough at times to establish readiness. Volvo has a very specific procedure for establishing readiness http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VolvoTechMike/2009-01-29_020910_readinessmonitors.pdf Using that bulletin and having the Volvo System Tester (VST), readiness can be set rather quickly. Sometimes take 2 road tests.

Maybe, but honestly the solenoid valve is kind of hidden out of the way. For me anyway I don't think it will interfere with anything I planned for my car.

My air pump system was fully functional. I removed it when I installed my OBX exhaust. I didn't want to modify the DP (by adding a bung) to make provisions for the air pump. Also I hope to soon install a FMIC and removing the pump will free up space for that. I removed everything except #18 the solenoid valve. Make sure you leave the electrical connection attached.....

REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/132158-sas-delete/page__hl__sas+delete and http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this. This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit. It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed. Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important.... The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU. To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire.... Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows.... .... Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing.... Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up! To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this.... Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it! I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.

Anxiously waiting for this thread. I'm in the process of building an engine and am exploring options for the breather.

My buddy drag races a Chevy Beretta (8.2 sec. 1/4 mile on alcohol) and says crankcase ventilation is an issue also for him. He uses a air pump attached to his catch can to pull a vacuum in the crankcase. How about the stock system with the addition of some kind of an air pump setup that could be triggered by say, an EBC. Have the boost controller set for whatever pressure you want and use the signal from it to activate a relay to turn on the air pump for your "secondary" pcv at high boost levels. During normal driving the stock pcv setup may be adequate. Maybe drill and tap a port in the cam cover to install a gauge to monitor the crankcase pressure (hopefully not pressure but vacuum ). Might need to experiment with different types of restrictions or orifices in the hose to get it dialed in, but it might work.