Volvo5.0
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Posts posted by Volvo5.0
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A customer of mine just bought this yellow. Any chance the previous owner is a VS member? Anybody recognize this car?
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5 minutes ago, dougy said:
at around 300 whp that canister becomes a restriction...
I know you're not one to chat/blabber about things, so you have proven data to support this I guess?
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1 hour ago, apeacock said:
That looks really clean. I implore you to do the right thing and show me on ebay. The results I see all look like new units.
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16 minutes ago, Timbo Slice said:
Where were people getting those? Turning my battery sideways is on the list of shit to do tonight and that's a very clean install.
Mid 80's XJ6. Quick search shows a few on ebay now.
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On 9/17/2016 at 10:22 PM, apeacock said:
Intake and charge pipe are now on the car. I was told to get a 45 & 90 coupler for the new mini Snabb intake pipe. However I would contest that two 90* sections are the way to go as I was forced to leave the filter straight and not include my intake box (say what you will I like it)
I like that look also! Could always use the Jag CAI. I used a smaller battery, but turning the battery sideways works too...
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Some attempts at night photography...
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You're probably right, the tech would have never admitted he screwed up. You wouldn't believe some of the lame stories my techs tell me to try and cover there ass. Most of the time I'll re-do the job myself so I can see what really happened, since it's my reputation that's on the line.
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If the shop owner did tell you those things ahead of time, you should have given them the opportunity to fix it. Who cares what the tech said. Obviously he didn't want to do the job again and work for free, but the owner makes the decisions.
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Must be a high wattage resistor - not your standard low watt style
The solenoid valve doesn't occupy much space. Almost seems silly to remove it and replace it with a resistor that's almost as big....
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So everything in this photo can be removed? and what does it mean by leaving the #18 connector in?
#18 in the parts schematic is the solenoid valve. I left the solenoid valve on the car with the connector plugged in. Others have removed the solenoid valve and attached a 30ohm resistor to the connector.
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Swapped the quaife over... Does anyone have the torque spec for the ring gear???
65 Nm - 48 lb-ft according to Johann's write-up.....http://volvospeed.com/install_performance_parts_how_tos/performance_guides/quaife_lsd_m56h.html
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You're using the RN oil pan, right? Did you replace all of the seals inside the pan, specifically the 2 seals on the pipe inside the pan?
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Left leg getting tired?
What clutch did you decide to go with?
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Easiest way to tell if the bearing spun is by looking at the locating tabs on the back of the bearing.
Smashed flat (not protruding) means it spun at least 1 time. Protruding tab means it did not spin.
Rod
Locating tabs? What bearings are you using that have them?
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When shopping your local JY for used cam sensors always look for the newer style sensors which are less prone to fail....
Old style....
New style....
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For the intermediate section to block, can I reuse the bolts or do I need new ones?
The intermediate section uses 3 different size bolts. The largest bolts (M10) are TTY and Volvo recommends replacing them.
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The relay has to stay, but you could probably do away with that big ass relay and use the much smaller relay from an X70. The small relay wouldn't be plug-n-play (you would need to wire it correctly), but it's much smaller and could be hidden easily.
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That's the air pump relay. The blue wire from the air pump should be unplugged, but the other 2 connectors stay connected. Also that relay is known to fail, so that could be the problem also.....
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The relay that the blue wire from the air pump plugs into.
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also the pump is slightly different than the on on the 98 the 97 pump has one blue wire that goes to the connector and the black wire goes straight to ground on a bolt.
The air pump relay on your car is a big relay that mounts to the air pump (on the air pump bracket). Did you leave that relay plugged in?
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So is it just me, or is the video on this page in the DIY section, telling people to solder the wrong pins?
http://volvospeed.com/install_performance_parts_how_tos/performance_guides/sas-delete_air-pump.html
That video is wrong. I think Keaton85 might have caught that and mentioned it somewhere earlier in this thread. Just for the record, that's not my video. The guy who did that video, even though he can't count, has much better soldering skills than I do
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I am running stock injectors, therefore the number is pretty accurate.
Your mileage is probably good but Hussein is right, your trip meter numbers are skewed because of the injectors. The greens you're using might be stock Volvo injectors, but they were never "stock" on an 850 with M4.3
I was stoked when I first installed my engine, but soon realized I'm not getting close to the 32mpg that my trip meter shows for city driving.
Glad it's up and running. Post up some logs when you get a chance. What parameters are you logging?
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I went through my bag of bolts and got one that was about 5mm longer. I was able to torque it to 20 ft-lbs, and that seemed to do it.
Be careful with those small bolts. Torque spec on a M7 bolt is 17NM, which is about 12.5ft/lb
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What length bolt did you use? That hole is tapped really deep - it's also M7, I believe, just with an M6 head (10mm hex) - did you put an M6 bolt in by mistake ( you may realize why I am saying this...)
+1 on this....
The M6 and M7 bolts both have a 10mm head, so it would be an easy mistake to put the wrong bolt in.
If you're sure the hole is stripped, you're right, it's in a really bad spot to try to repair. You could try removing the main water pipe to see if you can get a straight shot at the hole. You probably want to be under the car, because if you're working from the top it will be tough to see what you're doing. If you can't get a straight shot at it or don't have enough room to use the tap, then pull the head back off. You don't want to fuck it up any more than it already is.
--Official Spotted Thread--
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My shop in Maryland. Cars on top are mostly junkers/parts cars, and cars underneath are customers cars. Space in Bethesda is limited, that's why the car stackers. Oh yeah, and the stackers are on the roof of our shop.
The car is fairly clean. Definitely not worth what he paid for it.