tuner4life

The cat was being a little restrictive, so it's hollowed out now.. The rattle is coming from further up in the system. around the elbow on the turbo. I can't replicate it when i'm looking at it, but I can hear it with the windows down. It's working fine otherwise. I have a slightly used Yother/IPD downpipe on the way, I just need to fab up an adapter to the rear section. I'm hoping to have that this week although I'll probably wait to install it till after winter. I'll probably run it with a Magnaflow race-cat for now so the CEL goes away, but once I get it tuned to ignore the rear o2, it'll be catless again. Yeah, the DS bolt thing is crazy! I'm paranoid about them now and check them every oil change.

I realized I haven't updated this in a while. The R is still kicking and doing well aside from a few quirks. We still use it almost daily and while the ride is a bit rough, it hasn't annoyed me enough yet to justify the cost of coilovers or rear perches. Plus the nivomats are a nice feature if I load it up. I've been spending resources on other projects over the summer and haven't done a whole bunch with this. Had a few issues over the summer. The first of which was the front flange of the driveshaft where it attaches to the AG. The bolts had become loose enough to start flinging grease everywhere. I reinstalled the bolts again with some Loctite. I'm pretty sure I used it originally, but who knows. I'll check them again next oil change. The next issue was that the catalytic converter was getting plugged up. I'm running a used EST downpipe and it's starting to get bad. Even after gutting the cat, it still has an internal rattle that I just can't find. I have a lead on an Early IPD downpipe that I think I'm going to buy. It'll need a little fab work to make it work, but should be better than what's on here. Also despite being very creative with the o2 sensor spacers and restrictors, it is still throwing a code since the cat is gutted. The new(er) downpipe I am getting has a race cat with it and the PO says that he has never had an o2 sensor cove with it. Should be good to go.. If issues persist, I'll remove that cat too and get a tune that ignores the rear o2. There are a few other small piddly issues that I'll take care of before winter, but still enjoy this thing on the daily and just figured everyone should know about it lol.

Looking good!

Great!!

I'll try this when I swap back to the comets in a few weeks. The bar/bushings/links are all very fresh IPD parts. I would hope they aren't bad yet.

I got these off of Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Rear-Upper-Inner-MTC-VR484-fits-98-00-Volvo-V70-/282522220893?hash=item41c7a2f95d The parts that Andyb5 linked look very nice, but so expensive! So update, the car is still running good after the fuel/water situation. We are very lucky that the engine didn't drown and it didn't get cold enough to freeze. Going to replace the fuel filter after a few tanks just for good measure. Also, This car is going to give me a stroke with all the little freakin rattles. The dash will need to come out and be fiberglassed (Yes, I admit I should have done this the last time the dash was out, but I thought I could sneak by without since all the tabs were in good shape. Live and learn), then there is the exhaust rattle. I think it's in the downpipe.. Maybe the catalytic converter. I don't know, but there is absolutely nothing at all loose in the exhaust system. It sounds like there are a bunch of marbles inside of it though. Next step is going to be removing the cat in favor of a test-pipe. I'm more of a dog person anyways.. Also, there is now a noise coming from somewhere in the front suspension area when the car is rocked side to side like on an uneven road. I put it on ramps and had someone rock it side to side with me underneath. I could hear it. It's like a "pop" sound when rocked. I checked the ball joints, sway bar links, upper strut mountings, etc, and every joint, link, bushing, etc that I could think of. Nothing is loose or moving in a way consistent with the "pop". I still wonder about the end links, but they are pretty new IPD HD links. Everything in the suspension was new in November. We did notice that if you have a hand resting on the top of the right side fender when rocking, you can actually feel the "pop" in the fender. I'm totally lost on this one. Finally gave up and figure it will either stop or become obvious soon enough.. But hey, the hatch is quiet as a mouse!

As it turns out the recent rain/monsoon/flooding around here must have compromised the gas station's supply. My wife had already got re-directed and was taking a different route to work due to roads being flooded over, so this was an unfamiliar gas station. The first thing I checked was the quality of the gas. I pulled the gas in the below picture right out of the end of the fuel rail via the bleeder. Overall, we ended up pulling almost 8 gallons of water out before we got solid gasoline. We drained as much as possible and refilled with a couple bottles of Heet and some fresh premium from the local BP that I know has good quality gas. A little spray of ether and it fired right up and after sputtering for a minute or 2, it seems to be running much better now. I have a call in to the Phillips 66 Corporate number about compensation. We'll see how that goes.

Sorry, It was a P0172 code. Rich condition on bank 1. I didn't have my fuel pressure gauge with me at the time, but when you push on the bleeder on the fuel rail, it seemed to have a good amount of pressure when you turn the key on. And it did smell like gas when you try to start it. I looked over several different sensors and plugs (anything I could get to from the top), but I didn't see anything out of wack. There are no vacuum leaks that I could spot easily, tried unplugging the MAF to see if it would start that way and still nothing. Thinking it must be a spark issue, but not sure where to start yet. We had it towed home and didn't get there until late. I'll work on it tonight and see what I can find. Luckily I have a fully functional C70 at my disposal to test parts from if needed. Also a friend is bringing his good scan tool which will read live data and stuff, so that should help greatly in diagnosing the issue The other theory I have is that there may be water in the gas. We have had a record amount of rain here over the last few days and there are many areas that are flooded out. It wouldn't surprise me if there was some water in the gas stations tanks since it started acting up as she was pulling out of the gas station lot after filling up. I'll extract some gas tonight and see if there is any water in the system. My thoughts on the matter from last night: That is all.

And now it is dead at her work. Cranks but won't start.. throwing code p0175.. FML. Going there now

Got a call from the wife this morning. She went through a puddle this morning pulling into a parking lot to get gas and a couple minutes later while leaving the gas station, it threw a P0133 and P0422 code and when she went to pull out on the road it wouldn't go, just hesitated and sputtered for a few seconds. Long enough that she put the hazards on because she was going so slow.. It did eventually take off and go, but she claims it's idling kind of rough. I haven't seen it myself yet, just what she told me. I had her check the codes (Yeah I just leave the code scanner in the V70R permanently now because there is always something screwing up). The P0133 is the front O2 sensor and the P0422 is the catalytic converter efficiency code which could be the rear O2 sensor. I'm pretty sure both sensors are less than 2 years old Bosch units. What's the odds that they are both bad at the same time? The car has a EST downpipe, but is still has a catalyticc converter. Thinking about removing it completely.. Should I just clear the codes and wait for things to dry out and hope for the best? I am so over spending money on this thing. I have other projects that need to be done and were put on hold until after this project was completed, which it has been and is still consuming all of the resources. Freakin yay. PS: also lost the right rear plastic under-shield in front of the right rear wheel the other day in a snow storm, so I'll be looking for one of them soon as well, might just make something out of thick aluminum too. who knows.

Scratch that, wife didn't put the gas cap back on right whens he filled up. All better now. Gotta have a talk about that.

Car threw a code P0455 and P0442 yesterday for an evap leak. I'm guessing that it's the hoses above the Canister behind the front bumper because (1) It's the only freakin thing in the evap system that I haven't touched yet, and (2) Drove through quite a bit of snow and ice the other day and there was some packed into the area where the canister mounts. I'm sure that isn't great for things. Anyways, yay.

You won't regret it!

Correct. This plastic piece was broken off on mine and the latch was metal on metal making it squeak. Also, the hatch shuts much easier now. I don't have to slam it because the plastic piece pushes deeper into the latch making it click closed sooner. No firstborn needed, just give FCP $13.49 for a new OEM piece.

My brother took some still shots the other night too.

Alright. I had a weird issue with the spark plugs. I posted about it over on SS, but the summary is that I had a plug come unthreaded on cyl 4 enough to hear compression hissing through. I'm not sure why it happened after being installed just fine for over 2 years, but nevertheless I tightened it back up and the next day, I heard the same popping noise. Pulled the plug and the ceramic had become loose inside of the metal of the plug.Stole a plug from the C70 and it had the same problem. After much confusion, I replaced all of the plugs with NGK iridium and a new set of Bougicord wires since the one was cooked from the compression getting out. (FCP warranty is awesome). Now it's running great again! Had to thoroughly test it though, so being snowy evening, I picked up my brother and had a little fun playing in a slick lot. I also figured out the hatch squeak once and for all. After much frustration and research. It wasn't an issue with the seal, bumpers, or latch assembly at all. It was the metal striker plate mounted to the floor of the car. There is a plastic bit on the striker that was missing on mine. It was cheap through FCP and now the hatch closes easily without much effort at all. I also re-attached the panel again since it had come loose again from all the slamming. Finally have this car to where there are no more glaring issues! *knocks on wood* Picture of new striker plate with the bushing intact.

Been using Lemon Pledge on them. there are only a couple sticky surfaces left that I haven't dealt with. Now if I could just find a S90 all wood steering wheel...

Lucky! It was -20F this morning according to the thermometer in the car! The tires are Dunlop Winter Maxx.

Well the weather finally beat me. I had planned to paint the bumper this week if the weather wasn't too bad yet. Well over the weekend, we got a few inches and there's more coming right now, so I gave in and installed the XC bumper in it's current blue state. It looks a little goofy but I'm glad I swapped it. I already hit a piece of ice this morning that I', sure would have broken the R bumper. I heart it bounce off the IPD skid plate as I went over it, so I'm happy I got that! Also installed the snow tires and Volvo Andrasteas. Winter mode is now engaged. As much as I love this car for summer cruising, I forgot where it really shines and it makes up for all the extra work for the suspension and AWD. This thing is still a beast in the snow even as low as it is. It was so satisfying this morning passing all the local idiots in their trucks and SUVs driving half the speed limit. And doing it with a low car like this.

Looking better and better with every post! Nice job! I vote no-stripes. Seen too many used car dealers use them to try to hide bad body lines from repaired damage. It's the first thing I think when I see a car with pinstripes. Looks cleaner without.

Of course lol. I have started keeping an extra panel repair kit on hand at all times.. Kind of like Fuel pump relays and drain plug washers.

I located my squeak, I just don't know how to fix it without making the hatch impossible to shut without slamming it.. Take the interior hatch panel off and crawl inside. Shut the yourself inside and grab the inside metal structure in the circled areas in the below picture. Gorilla the door around as much as you cam while it's latched. The location of my squeak became obvious when doing this.

Yep! That's the picture I remember seeing! Can't believe it has been that long ago.. I didn't take any pictures last night, but I replaced the original TCV with a new Pierburg piece and then unplugged the battery for an hour and did the relearn procedure for the computers. Seems to run a lit better than before. Partial throttle acceleration seems to be smoother and more responsive, boost comes on quicker and doesn't seem to have the surges and flat spots that it did before. I highly recommend changing the TCV on higher mileage cars, even if the old one seems to be working fine. I also received my hatch panel repair kit and new interior handle surround so I installed all of that and now the panel is on and actually not rattling for the first time ever. I also adjusted the striker for the hatch latch. I've had an issue for a while where there was a squeak coming from the rear over rough roads. I finally found the squeak to be something between the tailgate latch and striker when they rub against each other. I moved the striker inward slightly so the tailgate closes tighter and the squeak was cured. Unfortunately now the hatch needs to be almost slammed in order to latch completely. I fiddled with it for a while but there is no happy medium between "squeaky hatch" and "too hard to close hatch". In fact, there is actually a point where it is still pretty hard to latch but still squeaks. I've applied a bit of grease to the latch and the bumpers that it rests on when closed all with the same results. What am I missing here??

I remember seeing a picture that fits that description a few years ago. Unfortunately I can't seem to find it anywhere anymore. I assume it is forever lost in photobucketland.. But yeah, something similar to that style, but with something to protect the fog lights too maybe? idk. I'll probably end up fabbing something to fit. Here is sort of what I'm after: (random pics from google)

The trim on the XC bumper will stay black. To be honest, I was originally going to just paint the colored parts flat black and call it a day (remember, this bumper will be crashing snow banks for 4 months of the year). But my OCD got the better of me and it needs to be at least a little bit Saffron to tie it into the rest of the car. Probably not this winter but definitely before next winter, I plan on fabricating some sort of rally style brush guard to go with this XC bumper. Something with a cluster of fog lights and a skid plate that would come forward off of the IPD plate. Not sure what you mean by "double puffs", but the rear bumper is staying as it is. Only changing the front bumper for winters.