tuner4life

Thanks! And thank you for all your technical help along the way! A couple of things to update. Here is the sacrificial XC bumper I got from the junkyard to keep the R bumper safe in the winter. I was lucky enough to find all of the shields, grilles, lights, etc. It's getting painted Saffron next week to it will sort of match. Also, here is kind of a public service announcement for anyone lowering an AWD P80. RELOCATE YOUR BRAKE HOSE MOUNTS TO THE CAR!! I had been hearing a light rub whenever the rear would dip over bumps. I blamed it on the tire hitting the fender liner and didn't give it much more thought... Until I was working on something else and noticed that the brake hoses were nearly touching the tire when the car was sitting on the ground. . There are little rubber protective donuts on the brake hose and those were very worn down where they had been contacting the wheel. I never noticed this before because when the car is jacked up, the hose makes a nice arc towards the inside and clears the wheel with plenty of room to spare. But with it being lowered as much as it is, the brake hose is pulled into more of a straight line shape once the car is lowered down. This is made even worse when the car hits a bump as the caliper gets even further away from where the hose is mounted to the car. Luckily I caught this before the hose was actually damaged, only the rubber donuts were worn down. Anyways. I made little brackets out of the piece I removed from the IPD skid plate I relocated the hose further inward and upward. In the pictures the bolt at the bottom of the bracket is where the brake line used to go. There is plenty of room to bend the hard lines into this new position and it fixed the issue giving plenty of clearance between the hose and wheel even at the limits of the suspension travel. Another crisis avoided. I know the brackets are a little crude, but they work fine for whipping them up in 20 min. I also had to remove the lower downpipe and smack/shake/blow it out because there were some small pieces of carbon, or catalytic converter, or something inside and it would rattle like crazy sometimes. I was going to lose my mind. I should have done a better job before I installed it. Took the dogs to their groomer. It's a nice drive around a small lake. Autumn looks good on this car! And another because this is the clearest sky we will probably see again until spring.. Was off work last week and once I got it back on the road from the fuel leaks, the above-mentioned things were the only issues. We put almost 500 miles on it last week and I am very happy with how it has turned out. Besides the ABS/TCS issue that I'm going to ignore until I can find someone with the proper test equipment, there have been no headaches or surprises. Things that I'm still going to go (maybe not till spring?) -New Pierburg TCV (on order) -Install hatch panel with new hardware and repair kit (on order) -finish de-rattling everything (likely forever) -Stereo install (Head unit, speakers, amps, sub tube, etc.) -Tint -Get the factory keyless entry working again -Give the local auto-X a try?

IPD skid plate arrived so I got that installed. Here is what you have to remove from the skid plate to install it on an AWD car with the vibration dampener box still installed on the angle gear: I forgot after-cutting pictures but it looks the same only without the shaded area. Met up with my brother last night and got some quality pictures for once. Gonna just bulk dump my favorites here in no particular order.

Not everybody's cup of tea but I like it and so does everyone who sees it in person. Many cars have painted mud guards as standard. Our 1998 C70 does and that's where I came up with the idea. Looks more modern and sleek compared to the bare plastic.

I took this week off work so I'm posting this from the waiting room while the V70R is getting aligned. Moral of the story is that you have to be very attentive when installing the pumps and lock rings. The seal on both sides got pinched inside of the ring. Pushing the pump against the tank when installing the ring prevented this problem the second time around. Here are the old seals. You can see where they were pinched: All dry now. Also swapped to the original fittings so I wouldn't have to notch the new lock rings: All seems good now. Made some final adjustments last night and ended up raising the back up by a couple washers (guessing around 3-4 mm because it was rubbing very badly. I'll post more later, but went to the junk yard on Saturday and found 2x XC70s so I grabbed a bunch of stuff. More on that later. Excited to drive this thing with a proper alignment! Stuff I got from the 2 XC70s at the junk yard: -Xc bumper for winter use w/ all undertrays. -Shields under the rear between body and gas tank. (Mine never had these since I owned it!) -Rear mud flaps in front of back wheels -Interior hatch door panels that aren't shattered all to hell like mine -Completely unbroken and fully complete cup holder for the console armrest! -Spare ABS module from a 1998 XC. -Ring around ignition cyl. (Mine was broken) -Chrome glove box handle -Lighted dome light switches from 2000 XC -Early style XC grille that I will be selling. -Misc other small stuff Random pictures in no particular order: After raising the rear a couple mm: Unobtainium:

Yeah, the pumps have a spring inside of them that keeps them pushed against the bottom of the tank. It takes some pressure to hold them tight against the tank when installing the lock ring. I'll bet they got twisted upon install. I'll have to pay more attention this time. It's just stressful waiting for such a cheap part that's holding up the whole project lol. Especially when you're not even sure how you screwed them up so bad in the first place. In the mean time, I have been working on converting over to winter mode: -Comets off, Andrasteas w/ snow tires on -R front bumper off, Junk spare bumper on (was running a C70 bumper, but a junk yard near me has (2) XC70s in the yard as of a week ago. Hoping that I can grab a good front bumper. Should fit the car much better than the C70 one) -Roof rack cross bars on for no real reason besides I finally fixed the broken mounting clamps -IPD skid plate on order -Sprayed Fluid film up inside of the rockers and a few other body crevices

Good call on the threaded rod. That's a great idea! I didn't even know there was a special tool for the lock rings. I just tightened them down with one of those oil filter strap wrenches with the rubber strap. I wonder if there is a special torque setting or something? I want to do it right this time...

I had more of a chance to mess with this over the weekend. I was pretty sure that the fittings were leaking because the bowls on top of each pump assembly were filling with fuel. Originally I dropped the front of the tank as much as I could by itself but it was still hard to see the smoking gun. As a quick test, I pulled the crossover tube that runs between the 2 pumps and replaced the fittings with the original style. I could pull that tube off and swap them on the bench. Was hoping to get lucky. Put some more gas in and had the same results. This was after about an hour with gas in the tanks: After sleeping on it I decided to go ahead and drop the whole subframe again. I left some things hooked up, but was able to drop it straight down under the car to gain enough clearance to get to the top of the tank if I needed to, as well as see the fuel pump buckets straight on. This time I was smarter about it and made a jig out of 2x4s that fastens to my transmission jack. This allowed me to drop the subframe, tank, and rear section of the exhaust all at the same time. This made things much more efficient and it only took about 2 hours to have the whole thing back out. Finally being able to get a good look at the pumps. I filled the tank back up and crawled back under to watch. Wouldn't you know... The lock rings are actually the culprit. I figured that since the cups were filling, that it was an issue with the lines, but the lock rings were not just leaking on the outside, they were leaking between the senders and rings as well which was filling up the cups. As seen here: I feel kind of dumb about the whole thing. I should have replaced the tank seals and lock rings the first time around, but they looked fine and I've never had an issue with this type of thing before. Also I should have just used the original fuel fittings like others had recommended. I figured that new > old, and maybe they still do, but I don't trust anything down there anymore.. The good news is that with my jig, I'll be able to replace the parts and fill the tank up before re-installing everything. I'll be able to see right away if there is an issue. So.. I've ordered the tank seals and lock rings. They should be here early next week die to Thanksgiving. I'm going to go ahead and swap the outer quick connect fittings to the originals too just to rule out the plastic fittings and also because I don't want to have to notch the new lock rings. This is only a 3 day week and there is no snow scheduled so I'll continue to drive the C70 for now. I had some vacation left over that I'm required to burn before the end of the year, so I'm taking all of next week off. Parts should arrive early in the week so there is absolutely no reason why this shouldn't be fixed and back on the road during that time. I cannot describe how ready I am to be done with this project and move on to other things lol.

Thanks guys. It's definitely leaking on both sides. The metal "cup" on the top of each fuel pump assembly is actually collecting gas on both sides. Just checked and the lock rings/seals are not readily available from anywhere and I really want to get this fixed this weekend so I'm going to lock in my bet that it's the quick connectors. I picked the 4 best OEM quick connections out of my originals and the 4 that Apeacock sent me. I wire wheeled them up a little bit and I think they will be suitable. Now I just need to figure out the best way to install them into the nylon lines while under the car and without setting everything on fire. Wish me luck.

Thanks everyone! Happy to be close to the end! Unfortunately however, I'm not out of the woods yet. I got off work yesterday and immediately went to the shop to tweak with a couple things on the wagon, then I was going to load the family up and go into town for some Ice cream. Unfortunately that did not happen. As soon as I walked into the shop I smelled gas and my heart sank. There was a pretty good size puddle of gas under the back of the car and after a quick look around, it seems that it is actually leaking from both sides around the pump and sender. I am still not positive where it's leaking from, but I'm 95% sure it's the junk aftermarket Dorman fuel fittings. It wasn't leaking after I filled the tank and drove around the other night, it started after it set in the shop overnight. I wonder if it warmed up a little and pressurized the tank more than it had been before. Who knows. Either way, I'm going to be dropping the tank as much as possible and replacing the craptastic plastic Dorman junk with the spare stock quick connect ends that I should have used the first time around (nomatter how crusty they look, they are still likely better than aftermarket). Also going to be replacing the lock rings and seals just for good measure. Not really how I wanted to spend this weekend, but oh well...

Thanks everyone! I definitely do need one of those! I have needed one for years, but convincing the wife to come out is much cheaper :) Well, I spent most of last last night cleaning up the shop, but I did eventually un-bury the car was able to take it on it's maiden voyage! I went about 3 miles away to the gas station and filled the tank up the rest of the way. It made it there and made it home with no significant issues. I later changed the cabin air filter and swapped out a failing cabin temp sensor. Instagram pictures to hide just how dirty it actually is: First impression: Holy crap this can't even be the same car! While it still needs an alignment and a few other tweaks, it drives so much better. I have a new found love for this car, and I feel so much better knowing that it's now mechanically how it should be. Engine/drivetrain: It is painfully obvious how restrictive the old exhaust and turbo were. It felt like it was really having to work to pull it's weight around, now it just simply goes. I haven't given it a good beating, but it just feels effortless while accelerating at partial throttle. Originally the car had a stock straight flange turbo and a hacked together home-made exhaust. It was restrictive, loud, and droned like crazy. It now has an angle flange 16t, EST downpipe, and EST axle back and the difference is astounding! It flows so much better, but is also tons quieter. It's just barely louder than my stock C70. It's going to be so much more bearable to live with now! Also worth noting, change your throttle cable! It doesn't matter how good it looks, I replaced mine with a new one and it's so much easier and smoother. you don't realize how much more pleasant of an experience a smooth operating accelerator pedal can be haha. I haven't taken it above about 50mph, but I don't feel any vibrations or shaking at all. A huge win in my book! Suspension: As I mentioned before, I still need an alignment and I'll probably play with the dampening on the Konis a little bit, but the change is unbelievable! you can really feel the IPD sway bars working. The ground was wet last night so I couldn't push it too much, but it was obvious that body roll was almost non-existent. It does feel just a touch bouncy, but nothing unexpected from something lowered this much. Might even be able to cure it with a little more dampening pressure up front. It is VERY low. Even lower than I expected, and I love it! The back doesn't rub (although a did notice a slight clicking sound from the back right when turning hard left. I suspect something with the heat shield or e-brake). The front however definitely does rub during tight cornering. Nothing too major, but it does rub on the fender liner a little. Not even going to worry about it at this point. The fenders are not even rolled and the liners are intact, so I really can't complain. I also can't get over how perfect the stance ended up. It just looks soooo good! Going to be sourcing a skid plate very soon. Brakes: I am very happy with the brake setup I decided to go with. Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors all around. Also 4 new calipers and hoses. I'm still bedding the pads in, so not abusing them at this point, but they are probably the smoothest and quietest brakes I've ever had on any car. And they look darn good! The e-brake also works now for the first time during my ownership. Not sure why the e-brakes in these cars suck so bad (Every P80 I've had has been like this). Just doesn't feel like it holds that well even after being adjusted correctly. Maybe I need to bed the e-brake shoes in a little bit too? Who knows. It should be good enough to keep the car from rolling away on a hill. There are still ABS/TCS lights on in the dash and I really am not sure why. The ECU has been repaired (more than once since the issue persisted), The rear ABS sensors are brand new Volvo OEM, and the front sensors have been replaced with known working replacements. I still need to look into this. Maybe later. Back at home and in the shop. It's getting was close to midnight and I couldn't help but stop and reflect for a few minutes on how big and intense this project really was.. I have literally been in blitzkrieg mode since August working on this thing almost every day, every spare minute. Thousands of dollars, hundreds of hours, several busted knuckles, mild profanity. If I had actually stopped at any point and realized what all I was up against, or actually thought about the amount of work that lay ahead, I'm not sure I would have had the motivation to continue or even start. But now, being at the end of the tunnel I look back on it and be proud of what has been accomplished. I've done restorations before, built engines, done plenty of suspension work, however nothing I have done has felt quite as complex or complicated as this crazy project. I want to personally thank all of you who have given advice, ideas, or helped me source hard-to-find parts. I sincerely appreciate it all! Alignment is scheduled for Saturday morning then this car will be converted to "winter mode". Snow tires on Volvo Andrastea wheels, a sacrificial C70 front bumper to keep the R bumper safe, a skid plate and an application of fluid film. The goal was to have this project done and the car back on the road before the first snow fall and thank God there is no snow in the forecast until next week. I was more stressed than I should have been about this deadline and it is a huge relief to have made it in time.

Just wire wheeled the loose rust off, cleaned them up and painted with some leftover engine paint I had laying around.

That was the goal!

^ Good to know! Well I am pleased to announce that the car is on the ground and I did drive it! Albeit only a few feet. There is so much clutter/tools/boxes/parts behind the car that it'll probably take most of the evening tonight before I can even get the car out of the shop. But it did move under it's own power. First I got the brakes bled. Everything looks so good behind the comets! It'll almost be a shame to swap them out for Andrasteas here in a few days. I also got lucky and the modified rod ends from Yother and the Seals-it boots both arrived yesterday. For anyone wanting to use the Seals-it boots with the Yother arms, get size 4 boots. They fit great. I also highly recommend getting the install tool. I don't think I could have done it without the tool (seen in picture). Arms installed and adjusted visually. I used the adjustibility of the threaded rod in the arms to get the alignment close, but final adjustments will need to be done using the cam bolts on the inboard mounting of the arms. I found it nearly impossible to tighten the large nuts without lowering one end of the arm. There is just not enough room for the wrench. We're all done back here! To attach the rear toe arms, you need: Inner: -Eccentric screw (x2): 986933 -Lock nut (x2): 985870 -There is an eccentric washer under the but that seems to be NLA. I re-used my old ones Outer: Bolt (x2): 985053 Washer (x2): 986396 I then finished torquing the spindle nuts and installed the wheels. When I dropped the jack I actually giggled out loud. The stance is perfect! Exactly where I had imagined it would sit. (Definitely going to spring for an IPD skid plate sooner than later!). Even my guestimate for the drop bolt spacing in the rear seems to be just about right. I drive the car back and forth a few feet to settle the suspension and went to bed. I am very excited! So close now! Disclaimer: I have not rolled the fenders and the liners are still 100% intact. I am not sure that I want to alter either of those things on this car due to the all-season use. I may be able to fit 5mm spacers all around without messing with the fenders or liners, but for now I'm not going to push it.

Yes, CJ is sending me replacement rod ends. they may even be delivered today. We'll see. Evidently he has to bore the holes out the extra 2mm once he receives them and my set must have gotten missed. He's making it right though. I just had to look up the "Rigid Collars". Looks like a great solution to a common problem for Hondas. Unfortunately the P80 subframe is a different animal. the subframe doesn't move at the bolts. It's the squishy bushings in the mounts that allow the subframe to move. It's got the poly inserts from IPD in the subframe bushings now and it's better than stock. If I do mess with that more, I'll probably just replace the bushings with delrin or use the solid aluminum subframe from a vert C70. I've also seen the mounting points braced back further (I think it was for a C70 vert, but i don't remember). It seems like a good idea but for the use that this car sees, I doubt it would be a worthwhile investment. I would probably get more result from a strut brace up top. I'l have a better idea of what to do next once I can actually drive this thing with all new and upgraded parts instead of the 240k mile stock junk.

Interesting thought, but I'm not sure why it wouldn't shield a majority of the heat? There are heat shields that are attached (clamped, bolted, even tack welded) to the exhaust pipes on many cars right from the factory. Nearly every OEM catalytic converter I've seen has some sort of heat shield attached right to it. Surely they would attach them differently if that didn't work? I'm no thermodynamics expert however. I suppose I need to learn more about this. I'm not a huge fan of the wrap in this application as this car will see snow and salt. The wrap tends to hold in moisture and rust the pipes.

Got the brakes all done yesterday! Just need to bleed them tonight as my help was all asleep by the time I got done. -Akebono Euro pads front and back -Zimmerman coated blank rotors all around -Cardone Ultra front calipers. These have a silver coating on them that is supposed to prevent rust and corrosion. I was very impressed with the look and quality of the coating. Hopefully it holds up as well as they claim. -Cardone rear calipers. I did verify that the 8111103 calipers that FCP shows do work for a 1998 V70R, however you do need to re-use your old brackets. Thankfully mine weren't seized or anything. I cleaned/wire-wheeled/de-greased my original brackets and painted the calipers and brackets silver with caliper paint and they match the front decently. I'm satisfied with it. -All 4 new brake hoses. Remember to get some 999290 clips if yours are missing or damaged. A nice simple way to keep the brake hoses attached where they need to be. -I also adjusted the e-brake assemblies. First at the back wheels. The adjuster can be manually adjusted until the rotors don't slip over the shoes without some resistance, then back them off a couple clicks. Then I went inside and cycled the e-brake handle a few times then repeated the rear wheel procedure. Final adjustments can be done with the adjuster bolt on the handle. If the balance lever on the e-brake handle is not even side-to side, the adjusters at the rear wheels should be adjusted again. This is really satisfying to see everything re-assembled and fresh. And here she sits. So close I can taste it now! The things that I still need to do are: -Bleed brakes -Flush steering system again (Going with Pentosin CHF11S, but need to finish getting all of the old ATF out). -Assemble and install CJ's rear arms (waiting on parts.. Should arrive any day!) -Alignment The above will get it on the road, then I need to do the following: -Swap wheels and bumper to winter mode -IPD skid plate -Apply fluid film to undercarriage and inside of rockers -Swap out failing HVAC temp sensor in dash -De-rattle hatch -Stereo project -Sleep?

This echoes what I have read many times about the Bilstein HDs. It's a shame really because I love my Bilsteins on every other car I've ever used them on. My OCD got the better of me so I fabbed up a heat shield out of some scrap aluminum and a couple of exhaust clamps. It's not pretty, but it will do the job of blocking some of the heat from getting to the fuel lines there, and if, God forbid, there is ever a fuel leak there, it should block the fuel from reaching the hot downpipe. It is very solid, doesn't contact anything around it, and doesn't vibrate or rattle. So yay! Looking up from the bottom. The blue loom is the fuel line: Also installed a not-completely-trashed steering wheel. It's just an early X70 Leather wheel, and it does have some wear, but it's miles better than that garbage stock wheel with the suede inserts that rubbed off decades ago and was all gummy. The above was Saturday. Then Sunday I spent nearly all day fitting and refinishing the EST exhaust, and I'm very satisfied with how it turned out! First I mocked it up and had to make an adapter to mount the axle-back to the mid-pipe. The axle-back I have was used and was cut off instead of just being disconnected. No biggie. I got it all hung how I wanted and then pulled it back off and went to town refinishing it. I sanded all of the loose rust/crust/paint off and gave it a vinegar-water bath with a scotch-brite. This removes a good amount of rust and neutralizes what is left. Then I rinsed it and dried it off. After it was completely dry I painted it with Rustoleum Hi-Temp primer and then Rustoleum Hi-Temp Flat black paint. I've had some bad luck with VHT on exhaust parts and I've heard very good things about the Rustoleum so I'm hoping it holds up. Everything but the tips got refinished. I remembered to install the bumper cover before the exhaust because the bolts for the bumper are inaccessible once the exhaust is installed. Also I was finally able to install the bumper trims around the exhaust that I've had painted for the last 2 years! Anyways, I still need to finish baking the paint by running the car, but I gave it the first couple of heat cycles already and seems to be holding up well. After all that I polished the tips up as good as I could. Looks good to me! Tons better than the janky homemade exhaust I had before. Also, I am so happy with how it sounds!! That's was best part of the whole job. It's so smooth and quiet! I haven't driven it yet, but it sounds a hundred times better than what I had on there before! Way less restrictive too! Getting so close now! All I'm waiting on is the replacement bushings from CJ and the Brakes from FCP. Both should be here this week. Then It'll need an alignment and be back on the road!!

Sounds good. I tend to be a bit OCD about stupid stuff like that. I'll come up with something simple to ease my conscience and move along. Also just realized, in the video, the fuel gauge appears to be working correctly! Didn't realize it last night, but it would never read below half before and now that both senders have been replaced, it seems to be reading where it should for having 5 gallons of gas in it. Yay!

I used INA bearing plates on the C70 the last time I messed with the struts on that car and they are the only brand that lasted over a year without issue. 4 years and counting. On most vehicles, I wouldn't consider anything besides Bilstein. I'm almost a salesman for them it seems. But on P80s, I've read that they actually raise the car up slightly (not what I want in the front). They also supposedly have a pretty "crashy" ride. Granted, I've never used them myself on this platform, but the Konis seem to be preferred as they have adjustable dampening. Since I'm not exactly sure how the rear suspension setup I have will function, I also like the idea of being able to dial in the front to more closely match the rear for firmness and ride quality. We'll see how it goes. So I am pretty excited for last night's progress. I got all of the fluids filled up, got the downpipe installed, Driveshaft installed, and a few other odds and ends. Then I dumped 5 gallons of 93 octane into it and started it up! I let it run for probably 5 minutes to check for leaks and couldn't find any problems at all! Yay! Here is a small video of that: Don't mind all the lights in the cluster, There are no brakes on the car, so that's that one, and the hatch was open.. Not sure about the ABS/TCS lights though. I've rebuilt the module twice, replaced the rear sensors and installed known-good front sensors. Maybe I have to drive it before it'll turn off? Also, I have a question/concern regarding the clearance between the EST downpipe and the fuel lines where they connect to the engine. Keep in mind I swapped to an angle flange turbo on this 1998 so the downpipe now passes to the right side of the driveshaft instead of the left side. The fuel lines going to the engine are also on the right side and very close to the Downpipe. I don't have a picture, but the EST downpipe is only about 3" away from a section of Nylon fuel line. The factory line in this area is nylon so maybe it'll be fine and not cause a problem, but the last thing I want is to melt that line which would then spray directly on the hot downpipe. Has anyone had issues with this? Am I being over anxious about it? I am thinking about making a heat shield out of aluminum between the 2. It should reduce the heat getting to the fuel lines and if something did go wrong, it would keep the fuel spray from hitting the downpipe directly. Am I right to be concerned about this or just being paranoid? I know there are plenty of people running this setup.

Front suspension is all done! The Konis showed up yesterday so I wasted no time. From the bottom: Koni Yellows, IPD springs, IPD upper strut mounts, INA bearing plates, new bump stops, bellows, and hardware throughout. Brakes are getting ordered today. I may fill my 5 gallon gas can tonight and make sure the fuel system is working correctly. Fingers crossed no leaks or problems.

The truth is that this car is my wife's daily driver. Unfortunately with winter included. That is one of the reasons that I have gone out of my way to coat/paint/clean/protect everything as much as I could while it was apart. I'm also pretty meticulous about spring cleaning every year. The wife's last daily was a 1997 850 base sedan with nearly no options at all. It now belongs to my in-laws. We Had our first child 2.5 years ago and it was at that time that we realized that our fleet of coupes and sedans just wasn't going to be large enough to haul 2 adults, 1 (now 2) children, and (2) 75 pound shepherd mixes. Replacing a P80 sedan with a P80 wagon was the logical option since we really like this platform. Her criteria was that it had to be a wagon. My criteria was that is needed to be turbo, and not a low pressure. We were trying to avoid all wheel drive P80s (for the exact reasons listed in detail in the last many pages of this thread lol). We wanted a 1998 T5 as this was the fastest version out of the box without having AWD. After literally months of searching for a T5 and coming up empty handed (but finding V70Rs all over). We decided to try to track down a Saffron to match the C70 which is my wife's favorite color car ever. Now here we are. This car was and still is imperfect enough that I don't feel bad driving it in the winter. There are dings and scratches, paint isn't all original, it's even had a quarter panel and a door replaced at some point. All seems to have been done well, but it's never going to be a pristine example. Despite all that, it still cleans up well enough to draw a crowd at the local cars-n-coffee meet. It's the perfect compromise for us really. It's still a cool, rare, fun, and very respectable vehicle without all of the stress and heartache of ruining a perfect specimen with kids, dogs, etc.. At this point, I'm just bringing it up to my standards mechanically so I will be comfortable driving it anywhere in the country without issues. Very worst case, if something terrible happens to it, I'll have a nearly new rear suspension, subframe, fuel system, and a ton of other parts that can all be swapped into another neglected AWD P80.

Thanks for that swedespeed link. Not sure why I hadn't found that earlier. It looks like that calipers in question are correct since my car is a very early 1998 (vin 429410). That would be the thinner, non vented rear brakes that are the same on all 1998 AWD models. Plus the picture looks identical to what came off my car so I'm going to give it a shot. I believe that FCP and IPD are both incorrect about this because there was nothing different or special about rear brakes on a 1998 V70R as I've just learned.

Actually made a bit of progress last night. First, I started working on the fuel lines. The nylon lines I used kind of had a mind of their own and wanted to coil up, but I managed to get them placed in the track under the car and got that mounted. I made sure that anywhere where the bare nylon line was exposed outside of the track I covered it with some sheathing or loom. Also hooked everything back up at the front of the car. Fuel lines are done as long as they don't leak! Didn't get any pictures. Next, I worked on the parking brakes. This was a nice big pile of parts that I'm glad to be done with! Also installed the new cables and mounted them. Lots of anti-seize was used everywhere. What's everyone's opinion on greasing/oiling the cables? Should I bother? Are they fine as-is? I bought them through FCP, so if they fail they have a lifetime warranty, but they are a pain to change so I'd rather not if I don't have to. I had a panic moment when I realized that I ordered the parts using the 1998 V70R parts breakdown, when in reality, mine more closely matched the 1997 850 AWD parts diagram. I ran into this before with the differential and VC, but didn't think about it for the brakes. Thankfully, while the picture is a little different, the part numbers all came up the same. I didn't keep track of all the part numbers for the parking brake, Just go to volvopartswebstore.com and look up your model. Their diagrams are great and give all available part numbers. The basics of what you will need are: -Shoe Set -Hardware/spring kit (contains the shoe retaining clips and 4 springs) -Expanders - 9485387 (x2) -Shaft - 1206339 (x2) (this attaches the cable to the expander) -Adjuster link (x2) - Can't find OEM number, but they show up in the FCP lookup -Adjuster claw (x2) - Can't find OEM number, but they show up in the FCP lookup -Also cables and retaining clips to hold them to the knuckle. Note: There's an o-ring (947115) that shows on the VPWS diagram, but they do not fit anywhere that I can find. Because the e-brake cables were now installed, I was able to re-assemble the back seat area of the interior. The console is still out so I can adjust the e-brake when the rotors go on. Also installed the newer style rear center armrest (Thanks DDM!). The newer version has a pop-out cup holder that my 1998 did not. So that's neat. Next, I'll be working on my (hopefully last for a while) FCP order which will include the remainder of the brake parts. I seem to be able to find everything through FCP, but the rear calipers have me confused. They do not show rear calipers for a 1998 V70R. I came up with part number 8111104 from the VPWS lookup, and when searched for on FCP, it crosses to 8111103 of which they do have a Cardone version, however it looks to be without the bracket. They also say that it will not fit a 1998 V70R. Only various models of 760, 780, and 940. Can anyone confirm that these will fit? I should be able to re-use the old brackets. Correct.

Springs are stock minus about 1.75 coils. Powder coated blue. Shocks are Euro Nivos with fooler bolts.

Holy crap! That's going to be quite the repair! Good luck!