tuner4life

That is a very good deal for Do88!

Yes, That's the one! I'm satisfied with it. The hoses fit very tightly on the pipes which makes the install a little tricky in a couple of spots but they all went on eventually. Other than that they feel good, look good and fit pretty well.

I was having issues with my phone early in the weekend so I didn't get many pictures. I wrapped up several small time consuming things. Got the turbo on and all lines hooked up. Upgraded the angle gear vent to the newer style, changed the pinion seal, and added a drain. Then installed it and filled with fresh fluid. I didn't get pictures of that stuff. There are pictures/write-ups online of what others have done for the angle gear vent and drain. I changed the hose clamps that everyone is concerned about with some that are smooth on the inside. They aren't OEM or blue, but they are stainless and will work plenty fine. Also reworked the zip ties to relieve some tension and installed some sheathing/loom around the nylon lines where they make contact with anything. The big accomplishment was getting the subframe/gas tank assembly back in the car! I still need to mount the trailing arms to the car, install the toe arms when they arrive, hook up the fuel lines and wiring, etc.. But the main mounting points for the subframe, gas tank straps and VC are all done! After the progress on the rear, I needed a change of scenery so I went back up front and re-installed the intake tube, filter tube, etc. also installed the FCP silicone intercooler hose kit. I didn't realize how bad the originals were until I removed them. They were hard, cracking, brittle, and falling apart. Makes me wonder how they held boost at all! I also finished up the alternator refresh and got that installed. Besides the downpipe/exhaust, heat shield, and battery, most of the work in the engine bay is done. I had to steal the alternator from the V70R and use it on the C70 temporarily because I had to get it back on the road right away. Decided to try my hand at rebuilding the coupe alternator instead of buying a new one. If I had to do this again, I would have just bought a Bosch unit from FCP with a lifetime warranty, but it was a good learning opportunity. Ended up changing the regulator, "slip ring post", and rear bearing. Upon disassembly, it became obvious why the alternator wasn't working. the lower contact on the slip ring post was worn completely through the copper which in turn destroyed the brush on the regulator. It tested good after re-assembly, so we'll see how long it holds up. If it quits again, I'm buying a new one. Lastly, while I haven't installed it yet, I did receive my remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado Driveshaft. It looks solid although their paint finish was a bit thick and sloppy. Oh well. If it works and doesn't cause me problems, then I'm happy. Sent the core back this morning. They were fast and hassle free. Would recommend again. So... getting closer and closer. Plenty of work still to do but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. The only things left are: -Hook up fuel lines -Hook up brake lines -Install driveshaft -Install rear bumper -Refurb, fit and Install exhaust. -Build and install front strut assemblies once struts arrive (any day), then re-assemble front knuckles/suspension -Install brakes all around.

Reread my post from yesterday. Sorry, I wasn't trying to come across as argumentative. I'll take another look at the clamps. There are only a couple non-smooth clamps so it won't be a big deal to swap them out before throwing the assembly in. Also adding some padding/sheathing where the nylon lines will be tied up. The fuel filler hose is NLA from every source I know of. My original was in surprisingly good shape so I just re-used it.

Yes these hoses are all very difficult to find anymore, and the few that are available are stupid expensive. That's why i decided to make most of them on my own. Anything pressurized is nylon and all the new rubber is fuel rated stuff. The only original hose is the large fuel filler because I couldn't source a replacement for a reasonable cost and the original part was in surprisingly good shape. I also did away with all of the metal lines since this car is driven in the winter. Most of the clamps used here are smooth on the inside (Dorman usually). However the clamps on the fuel fill hoses are standard style stainless screw clamps. I've used them on many applications (usually cooling systems) that are much higher pressure than a fuel filler hose and have never had a problem. Sure if you over-tighten them they will cut and dig into the hose but this isn't my first rodeo. I'm not doing a concourse restoration, I don't need blue hose clamps when these will work just fine. Shoot, the original clamps had to be broken off with pliers because they had corroded so badly. You do have a point about the zip ties. I should revisit the areas where a zip tie contacts a nylon tube because I could see that being an issue. Probably should be in a protective sheath before being tied up. Same with the vent hose parallel to the fuel filler, that one does look a bit tight. I wasn't sure how much room I would have between the car and tank so everything is tied up so it won't move and get pinched during install. The rest of the lines and hoses should be fine. Much better option than letting everything flop around. That tubing kind of has a mind of its own! Plus I don't crank them down so tight that they cut in to the hoses. I spend a lot of time around drift cars and you would be amazed what zip ties can do. lmao

I am also very excited to drive this thing! Unfortunately I likely won't be able to thoroughly enjoy the upgrades until spring because at this point I'm probably going to put the snow tires on it right away. It will snow here soon and I don't want to ruin the Comets.. If I get a chance before it snows I'll throw them on and see how it handles, but I assume it will be a sloppy mess outside by the time this is driveable. I think the control arms that you are referring to are from earlier cars (1997 and earlier). It doesn't seem to matter if its FWD or AWD since both my 1998 C70 and the 1998 V70R both have the 4 bolt control arms, but the in-laws 1997 850 has the 2 bolt arms. Worst case, if these fail they are covered by FCP's lifetime warranty. I'll just send them back for new ones. The stud is actually part of the cast rear knuckle. It would be very hard to mill that down considering where it is. Plus I don't want to weaken the casting by making it thinner. I would rather bore the bushing sleeve, but considering that I just paid a chunk of change for these under the assumption that they would fit, I feel like the issue should be resolved by Yother. I sent him an email this morning, but have not heard back yet.

I got the Yother arms because the originalss were very rusty and I didn't trust them much longer, plus the car will be a bit lower and like the idea of adjustability. Not to mention that the Yother arms significantly cheaper than buying OEM. I'm not even thinking about the washers, I will get the boots that completely seal the joint. I've had heim joints on my drift car for years and without boots, they only last about a season due to dirt getting into them. Lifespan is reduced significantly the first time you drive in the rain uncovered. I am having an issue with the Yother arms though, going to email him today. I went to test fit them over the weekend and the hole on the outer joint was too small by 2mm. the mounting stud coming off the knuckle is 18mm as is the hole in the original arm. The Yother arm hole was 16mm. Besides that, I did manage to get the steering rack reinstalled, the column bearing/boot thing replaced, IPD front sway bar installed, new OEM control arms installed, and the subframe and engine mounts all bolted back together. I then worked more on the rear subframe. I re-installed the cv axles, filled the diff, installed the knuckles To install the knuckle: lower bolt: 985200 (This part is not correct, diameter issue. I re-used old bolt) Lower nut: 985870 Nut to attach to top control arm to joint: 985660 Then I set the tank straps on the subframe and positioned the tank. Spent the rest of my time for the weekend getting the fuel system done. I replaced all metal lines with either nylon line for the high pressure stuff, or fuel rated rubber hose for the vent stuff. There was a lot of measuring, routing, and arranging to make it all fit and lay nice. Don't mind the blue loom. It was all I had on hand at the time. Also, Duct tape is temporary while I was working on forming the nylon lines I need to clean things up a little bit, but I think the subframe is ready to be installed back into the car!

Not sure why the picture turned out so bad, but my Yother rear toe arms showed up yesterday. They are pretty!! I'm going to try to source some Seals-it boots for the heim joints so they don't get ruined as quick in the weather. I also got my exhaust solution on the way thanks to Apeacock! Can't wait for it to arrive. Also expecting what is likely the last box of parts from FCP for this project today as well as a set of like-new (<1k miles) Yellow Konis that I scored off of Swedespeed. At this point the only parts I still need to buy are brakes and the driveshaft.

Fixed! Albeit not without more of a fight. Upon reassembly I found the power stud on the starter loose (had it apart to check the wiring) and when I went to tighten it, the whole end cap of the solenoid was loose and spun. So at 9:45 last night we made an emergency high speed trip to the semi local O'reillys where I warrantied out their starter that I bought a couple years ago. Get back home and reassemble everything and it works perfectly. Didn't get to bed until almost 1 AM, but I'm driving it this morning dang it!

I pulled the alternator from the wagon last night and looked under the cover. It looks much better than the C70 alternator. Should be installed and back on the road tonight if all goes well.

I got them both from Ebay. I understand that they are cheap aftermarket replacements. But for the cost of the original parts, I could buy another Bosch alternator from FCP. Going to give it a try the cheap way and if it lasts a few years then great. Probably going to leave the bearings alone at this point, but will be sure to test and replace the rectifier if needed. This whole situation has got me thinking about my parts stock at home. I try to keep a basic collection of maintenance parts around since we have the C70 and V70R and the in-laws have a 1997 850 as well. I keep things like oil drain plug washers, intake manifold gaskets, fuel pump relays, etc.. Just some basics that we might need in a pinch.. Well this definitely has be considering keeping an alternator and possibly a starter on the shelf too just in case we end up in this situation again.

Ok. Did some more research, looks like the slip ring assembly is replaceable too: Just bought one from Ebay for $10.75 shipped along with a voltage regulator for $35.. http://info.europartshouse.com/tech-pages/bosch-if-slip-ring-replacement/ I have a access to a bearing puller and a soldiering gun so I think I should be able to handle this. Still spins free.. Should I bother with bearings? Not worry about them?

Dang.. I was hoping I could throw a regulator at it and be good to go. Oh well. I'll use the alternator from the V70R in the C70 to get that going again right away, then I'll just buy a new one for the V70R since that project has another few weeks left anyways. FCP is selling actual Bosch units for less than the el-cheapo remans at the local parts stores.

And now that I've had my coffee and I'm not pissed at the whole situation I can think more clearly and think I have found the obvious temporary solution that I should have realized yesterday but didn't. I'll just use the alternator from the currently-out-of-commission 1998 V70R sitting in the shop.. That should get me through until I can get the new voltage regulator and replace that alternator into the wagon.. Somehow I didn't think about that easy solution all weekend. Wow.

No free towing at this time, but we are definitely looking at a AAA membership in the upcoming year as we plan to travel a bit more. The weekend was a bust for fixing the C70. The spare alternator that I thought I had didn't actually exist. I must have scrapped it with the car accidentally. So I was left scrambling to find a solution on Sunday. I removed the old alternator and took it to a local Advance parts store to have it checked to verify it wasn't the wires or something else. They tested it and it passed... What?? They didn't have a new one at that store anyways, so I left more confused than I started and started tearing onto the car to check all the wiring, battery and everything else. After an hour or 2 of poking around the cables (which all looked exceptionally good for a P80, I grew suspicious of the positive alternator test so i took it to the next closest parts store, an Auto Zone. They didn't have one in stock, but my alternator did fail on their bench.. At that point it was already mid afternoon and I was not making any progress. I called around and the only store in a reasonable distance (30 minutes away) that had an alternator in stock was an O'reillys. There was also another Advance Auto and another Autozone on the same block so I headed that direction. Got to Oreilly's and had them check the alternator. Failed and their machine said it was only putting out 11.5 volts. (I am still not sure why the first test at Advance came back good) They had an alternator in stock so I told them to grab it and check it too before I left for my peace of mind. Then it failed... 11.5 volts just like my old one. Are you kidding me!! I passed on their new alternator, but went on to the other 2 stores to check my old one just for kicks at this point. It failed at both other stores, so at least I had consistent failures at 11.5 volts and no more false positives on my old one. There was 1 more AutoZone store another 20 minutes that supposedly had an alternator in stock. I drove over there and they did have it. 2 actually. The only issue is that they didn't have pulleys on them and the store worker refused to let me borrow the tools to swap mine over. I could have done it at home, but after the day I had, I refused to leave the store with one unless I could test it before leaving (especially being a notoriously bad Duralast brand). I said forget it and headed home. It was already dinner time and raining by the time I got home and since I was working on it outside (V70R project taking up most of the floorspace in the shop), I called it a night and came inside. I then focused on disassembling the old alternator and I'll probably just replace the voltage regulator. It's already not going to be fixed to use this week, so I guess I can wait for the parts now.. Here is the old voltage regulator. I think this is the culprit: And where it goes: Is the scoring on the shaft something to worry about? Today's project is to see how fast I can get a volt regulator coming.

Alrighty then.... Been driving this car daily while I work on the V70R and it's been hanging in there so far. A few leaks and other small annoyances that I'll tend to later, but been solid enough. Until this morning.. Driving to work the battery light comes on. Thankfully I was nearly there when it came on. Borrowed a multimeter and had 12.1 volts with the car off and 12.1 volts with the car on.. Wonderful. Found a spare battery charger at work and am making sure the battery is as fully charged as I can make it before heading home. It's a 30 minute drive in the country so I should make it home. Wish me luck. I have another alternator on the spare C70 engine at home so as long as it checks out good, it shouldn't be down long. Just wish it could have waited another few weeks until the wagon is done.

I'll grab the gasket, that's only $4 or something. Worst case I don't use it and return it to FCP with the box of other unneeded parts that I've accumulated over the course of this project. I checked at 2 local parts stores last night and they both failed to have any reasonable options for exhaust studs. I was pretty disappointed. So then I went to my new favorite place for hardware. The local ACE Hardware. They are under new ownership and have a huge metric nut/bolt/misc section. I was able to find the studs I needed (specifically treated for exhaust) as well as the nuts. All for about $25 as opposed to $120 buying OEM. Last night, since the Angle gear, CV shafts, Driveshaft, Turbo, Downpipe, etc.. Are all currently out of the car, I decided it was the most ideal time I would get to change out the front sway bar, steering column bearing/boot in the floor, and the throttle cable. The throttle cable is done, and the old sway bar is removed. Then I spent most of the rest of my time trying to get the column bearing/boot out. The old nylon sleeve was in such bad shape that it had actually fallen out and was hanging down by the rack. I ended up actually unbolting the rack from the subframe in an attempt to figure it out.. Once I had it all apart, I realized that wasn't exactly necessary, but oh well. Now I know how it all goes back together anyways. Going to replace the o-rings where the lines go into the rack while it's apart. This is the revised part number for the column bushing/boot thing. The original uses a nylon bushing in place of the metal bearing seen here and they are known to squeak, creak, and fall out when turning the steering wheel. Supposedly all of the problems are cured with this new version. Part number: 9461285 And installed in the floor. It just pulls out from the inside. This is a lazy picture of the new throttle cable installed (among other messes).. I don't remember the part number but it's easily found on FCP's site. Subframe dropped, front sway bar removed, rack unbolted. Needing de-greased badly. Also small spot of surface rust by head shield will be tended to while I'm in there.

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks again!

Didn't do much last night, just removed the old turbo.. It was pretty disgusting While there were no major leaks, it must have been seeping for a while.. The new one with the angle flange had a much larger exhaust outlet. I'm stoked about that! Also, I was putting together an FCP order for any gaskets and hardware needed to put the new turbo on and I have a few questions.. -First of all, The gasket between the turbo and manifold (part number 8642450). Seen in the link here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-turbocharger-gasket-8642450oe. Is this necessary? I'm getting mixed information whether or not I should use this. There wasn't a gasket when I took the old turbo off. -Next question: As a basic rule, I always try to replace any bolts/studs/nuts with new when working with exhaust systems. However, when I started pricing these I was kind of in shock. The 4 studs from the turbo to manifold, plus the 3 studs between the turbo and downpipe, plus well as the 7 nuts total over $120!!! That seems more than a bit ridiculous. Is there any reason why I should be using OEM as opposed to sourcing the studs and prevailing torque lock washers at the local parts store? for that price I'll just re-use the old ones lol

Thanks Andy! I'm mostly doing it so I can reference it later for myself if I need to, but hopefully it will help folks down the road too. Got the latest batch of parts from FCP yesterday. OEM wheel bearings: 9140844 OEM snap rings for wheel bearings: 914542. (I did have to take a grinder to these and chamfer the edge ever so slightly so that they will snap into place. The hard edge they came with wouldn't fit in the groove without a little tweaking) Also installed the freshly powder coated heat shields and some of the e-brake hardware: Hardware pack: Pro Parts Sweden: 51990722 Here are the rear knuckles assembled and ready to install. I'm likely going to wait until the subframe is mounted in the car to install these as the heat shields will crush against the ground the way it is now The odd bushing/stud thing that attaches the top of the knuckle to the UCA has been discontinued from Volvo and I can't find a good part number for them at this point. With some help from someone on the forum I was able to source a pair of aftermarket versions from ebay. Good luck finding this one. If anyone wants to chime in with more info about those, please do. Also installed a new FAG hub assembly and new bolts in the front left knuckle. I replaced the right side 2 years ago, so did this one for good measure while it is apart. I didn't grab the part numbers but they are easy to find anywhere. Lastly I installed the differential/VC assembly into the subframe and bolted the top part of the subframe back on. The old bolts were in good shape so I just cleaned them up and reused them.

Thanks! Last night I got the Nivomats mounted up. These are the Euro Nivos which should already ride a bit lower than the old ones, I also added about an inch of extra drop using grade 8 fooler bolts. I have a nice stack of washers in there so I can adjust as necessary once the car is on the ground. Hoping it's close. Then I burned up some brand new bushings. I made a dumb error when I pressed the old bushings out of the forward mounting brackets for the trailing arms. Like every other bushing, I pressed the bushing and sleeve out of the bracket. Unfortunately in this unique situation I should have left the sleeve in. The Super-Pro bushing fits loose without the sleeve. So, I bought the cheapest replacement stock bushings I could find from Ebay and upon their arrival I promptly set them on fire so I could use only the sleeves. Aftermath: All cleaned up and pressed into the bracket: And finished: I used Energy Suspension brand polyurethane bushing grease I had leftover from a previous job since it is the best grease I've found to stop squeaking with poly bushings. Parts list: Washer (bigger hole): OEM: 986462 (Volvopertswebstore.com has these washers mixed up on their diagram) Washer (smaller hole): OEM: 986450 (Volvopertswebstore.com has these washers mixed up on their diagram) Bushing kit: SuperPro: SPF0638K (1 kit does both sides). You will not use the washers from this kit) Bolt: OEM: 985055 Also for reference in the pictures below (Other random parts that showed up): Fuel filler bracket: OEM: 9180568 Bolt: OEM: 982800 Brake line clips that were broken: OEM: 30645058 Where they go: And the current status of everything. It's slowly but surely coming together!

I started re-assembling the rear subframe. Upper control arm to subframe mounting takes 1 each of the following per arm: - 985050 bolt - 982850 bolt - 985870 nut The lower control arm to subframe mounting calls for the following: - 985200 bolt (This bolt isn't exactly correct and I ended up using the original bolt with the new nut. The original bolt has a spline that grips into the arm and bushing sleeve and fits snug. The new bolt did not have this and fit loose in the bushing sleeve. I recommend using the original bolts if possible. This bolt is also used where the LCA attaches to the knuckle and has the same problem in that location. I'll be sending the 4 new ones back to FCP) - 985870 nut The IPD sway bar came with all the hardware and the install was fairly straightforward. You will need the following to attach the bar to the end links: (the ebay links came with these bolts/nuts, but I had already ordered OEM so I used them. - 982844 bolt - 985870 nut The exhaust brackets used some extra bolts that I had laying around. I don't remember the size. The exhaust brackets on the subframe are NLA so I had the originals sand blasted and powder coated. They turned out very nice. Tonight I'm going to hit up the local parts store and grab the grade 8 bolts to mount the nivos and about a 6" stack of washers to dial in the ride height. Also have a lead on an exhaust so I'm stoked about that.

Hi Dan! Glad to have ya! (You had messaged me on FB the other day about selling these). Hope you can find them a good home!

Just a stock 16t angle flange turbo from a 1999 T5. Got it for a deal. We don't need big power from this car as it's primarily going to be a daily. This should already be night and day difference just by unclogging the hacked together 1998 style exhaust.

Thanks! Ok, Taking a break from the back half of the car, I decided to start working on the stuff up front. If you remember way earlier in this thread, I had patched and hacked together a downpipe that worked, but wasn't anywhere close to ideal. It's time to upgrade that. I have already acquired an angle flange turbo and was planning on purchasing a custom downpipe from a Joshua Briggs on facebook who is going to be doing a group buy for them. However if that doesn't materialize in time, I may try to order one from Eurosporttuning.com. We'll see. Either way I am taking a leap of faith that someone will be able to provide me a downpipe before the snow flies in Indiana. Last night I removed the angle gear to get more clearance to everything. also soaked the turbo hardware in PB blaster and let it sit. More later.