tuner4life

Got all of the Powder coated parts back yesterday! Everything is textured black (supposedly the most durable finish they offer), except for the coil springs which are gloss blue that is very close to matching the Front IPD springs. I'm very happy with how it all turned out. So last night I worked on pressing some bushings in place. My wife is pleased to have the freezer space back. In the below picture: For Location #1: -Bushing kit: (OEM - 6819057 - x2 per side) or what I used (Superpro poly - SPF1023SK - 1x kit per side) -Washer: (the visible one) OEM - 9157309 - 1x per side -Washer (the one on the non-visible side) I cannot find a number or availability for this, I re-used the old washer -Bolt: OEM - 985055 For Location #2: -Bushing: (OEM: 9169310 - 1x per side) or what I used (Superpro poly - SPF2012K - 1 kit does both sides) For location #3: This one was a bit tricky to find as well as install into the trailing arm -Bushing: OEM: 9490797 - 1x per side. (Note: this is not the original bushing. It is from a P2 car I believe and is just a touch longer than the original. I machined off a couple mm from the bushing where the bolt head contacts it so that the bolt would get full engagement into the trailing arm) -Bolt: 985061 - 1x per side I started working on the forward mounting points on the trailing arms but ran into an issue. According to Big Will's thread on V70R.com (http://v70r.com/forums/topic/37473-p80-awd-rear-suspension-bushings/), that forward mount bushing should be Superpro SPF638K (or OEM 1273778). But when I went to install my Superpro bushings, they were very loose in the bore of the bracket. I believe my mistake was that the original bushing sleeve should have been retained in the housing and just had the rubber burned out of it. I am waiting to confirm this however. I ruined my original bushing sleeves when I pressed them out, so hoping that isn't the case. More on that when I figure it out.

Got some more done this weekend. I finished up the fuel lines as much as possible while I wait for the remaining fittings and tubing to arrive. I also disassembled the front suspension. On the front end, I'm going to do the following: Koni front struts, IPD springs, IPD upper mounts, INA bearing plates, bump stops and other various hardware. IPD sway bar, and replacing the missing plug on the steering rack. The tie rods were replaced 2 years ago with Lemforder and they are still in great shape. IPD sway bar end links are also holding up well. Also new brake pads, calipers, rotors, hoses etc. Up in the air about the wheel speed sensors. Also replacing the noisy bushing/beasing where the steering column goes through the floor. Also going to see how FCP's lifetime warranty works out as both my Lemforder LCAs purchased through FCP 2 years ago now have torn boots and steering stoppers falling off. I also removed the passenger side axle since I'm probably going to be removing the angle gear to get to the turbo and to make the some of the suspension stuff easier. I would also like to add a drain plug to the AG similar to what I did to the rear diff. We'll see how that goes. After taking the front end apart I rolled my ankle pretty bad so i didn't get any pictures of that. Just imagine a stock V70R, then imagine it without anything in the front wheelwells. Here are some more part number references for the rear exhaust hangers: Driver side bracket: 9434355 Pass side bracket: 9434358 bolt plates: 8627063 The nuts I just grabbed from my stash. Rubber hangers: 9179238 (x4 for dual exhaust) I liberally coated any mounting faces and the threads with anti-seize. Future me will thank present me. And here are the numbers for the rear bumper mounting parts: brackets (x2): 6816114 bolts (x4): 988182 Washers (x4): 986504 Long Bolts (x2): 982831 Again, everything got a liberal coating of anti-seize before assembly. I also started working on the rear spring perches/bump stops. The original bump stops were garbage and had fallen off of the perches. Replacements are only sold with the spring perch and cost a ridiculous amount. I snooped around the local parts store for a while trying to find a suitable replacement for these and finally came up with Energy Suspension part number: 9.9150G. You may be able to find something more pleasing to look at, but these seem to fit alright and are nearly the exact same height as the originals. I had to drill a small locating hole in the perch and source a large washer to put under the bump stop as well as under the nut, but at the end of they day, these should work just fine. Picking up my powder coated parts tomorrow so I'm stoked for that. ~Merged~ I forgot, I also re-assembled the viscous coupling. This bushing is: 9143894. It is only for the 1997 and early 1998 models. Mid 1998 and newer use a different VC and I can't find the bushing number for that style. It may be the same but I don't know. The bearing that goes in the VC is: 9143903. Again, this is for the 1997 through early 1998 VC. I don't know if this will fit the newer style or not. No picture, but after assembling the VC, I got the VC installed on the differential. That assembly should be done now and ready for installation!

Not a problem. Thanks for trying.

Quick update: -Powder coated parts were supposed to be done by today. They contacted me yesterday and let me know that their sand blaster had broken and they wouldn't be done untill Tuesday. Rad. -USPS tracking shows that my latest (fairly large) shipment of parts from volvopartswebstore.com was supposed to be delivered by 8pm yesterday. It was not. Also rad. Mini rant: There are literally no good shipping carriers around me. USPS is habitually and unapologetically late, Fedex (when they can manage to deliver to the correct address) has damaged more packages they haven't. And UPS seems to be doing alright, but for some reason they rarely get used for stuff I order. -Still trying to track down the K-tool fuel fittings. I tried ordering them online from a couple of different sources and they both came back afterwards saying they are discontinued or backordered by a couple months. Again, Rad. Going to try 1 more local place that I know of Saturday morning and hope that I have some luck. -Yesterday I ordered Cj Yother's rear toe arms. He says that they should ship around the end of the week. Actually rad! So without the resources to do much more, all I did last night was get the fuel line shield ready to re-install. The original plastic mounting hardware was junk, but you can still get replacements. (Nut: 9141192, and Ring: 9141191) You need 6 total. That part is ready to re-install now. (It's not actually dirty, that is undercoat that wouldn't scrub off. Not gonna mess with it). At least I got something done...

Thanks Will, I have a mix of undiagnosed ADD and OCD that really makes me overthink everything on a project like this, It's a blessing and a curse really.. Plus we plan on keeping this car basically forever and there is nothing I hate more than having to do a big job like this more than once. As for the sealant, there may be a more conventional sealant for the diff cover, but anymore, if I need to seal 2 machined surfaces together (especially in oil applications) then I just use the Volvo pink sealant. I swear by that stuff anymore. I've used it on Toyotas, Saabs, etc. What finally made me a believer was a leaking timing cover on my 1992 Saab 9000. I had it off and on several times and could never completely keep it from leaking. I had been using the Volvo pink sealant on oil pans and cam covers on Volvos for years and figured I would give it a try on the Saab just to see if it worked and ta-da. No more leaks. Maybe there is a different recommended option, but I know this will work lol. Andy, My IPD sway bar set came with poly bushings. I'll be using the IPD bushings with these links as they seem to be higher quality. My original links were too rusty to re-use. Last night I went to the parts store to pick up the other 2 quick connect fuel fittings that were on order and found that the design had evidently changed and the ones that arrived were a few mm shorter than the 2 I had been previously given. Shoot! I did get the information for the ones I got the first time. They are made by K-tool International, part number: kti-05105. They look to still be available online (you need the ones with the green clip, the ones the parts store got had a gray clip and were shorter). I'll be ordering the remaining 2 online. More later.

Thanks Andy! Just trying to be thorough since so few people have done this project and even fewer have made helpful threads about it or found solutions to Volvo's design flaws and discontinued parts Last night wasn't as productive as I had hoped. I cleaned up the rear upper heat shield and used some 3m metal duct-work tape to patch over where the mounting holes had corroded too large. That tape sticks amazingly well, so hopefully it will hold up in this case. I then installed it with stainless washers and new speed nuts. After installing them I doused the mounting points in silver rustoleum. Is all this overkill? Maybe.. Maybe not. Time will tell. Next, these endlinks arrived yesterday. Long story short, I had ordered 2 end links, 4 washers, 2 nuts, and the mounting hardware all OEM from FCP. Well they shipped me 1 link and all the hardware with my last order and refunded the other link as they could not source a second. Upon further research, I found these on ebay for less than half the price for the OEMs, and they seem to be fairly high quality. Yesterday I sent the OEM end link and all the hardware back to FCP for a refund. In summary, Buy these from Ebay instead of OEM because they are (1) actually available, and (2) half the cost while looking like quality parts. I am awaiting the arrival of the other quick connect fittings after work today, and I just got word that my powder coated parts will not be ready until Friday now. Also going back and forth with Volvopartswebstore.com as their tracking number they gave me several days ago doesn't show my parts shipping yet. Yay... Best of all. The tentative group buy from FB for the AWD downpipes has not started yet and according to the person making them, they may not be available for another 6+ weeks. I have sourced an angle flange turbo, but at this point, I may wait until after winter to install it. I might keep the straight flange turbo over the winter and re-install my janky patched up stock downpipe for now and then make that swap in the spring as I probably won't have the downpipe until after it could potentially be snowing. Here's a picture of the turbo because I'm excited to at least look at it until I can install... Since I was running out of things that I had the parts to do, and needed a change of scenery, I hopped on the creeper and rolled up under the front end of the car. I have some work to do up there as well, but I wanted to check out the bushing where the steering column goes through the floorboard as it has been squeaking for a while. I was going to pull the white bushing out and inspect it. Maybe grease it, maybe replace it.. Well imagine my surprise when I dig into it and the bushing is just gone. upon further inspection, it had fallen all the way down and was now down around the u-joint down by the rack. also completely chewed up and ruined. Guess that explains why it squeaks when I turn. Looks like the Volvo number has been superseded to 9461285 which is the whole boot with a different style bearing on it. Does that sound correct? I probably need to get one coming. Also, while I was there I found that the dust cap on the steering rack below the column had gone missing and it was kind of a greasy/dirty mess inside of there. I sprayed it out the best I could and cleaned up the area. I'm going to pack it with grease and source a new dust cap. I measured the bore at 32-33mm. Hopefully the rack isn't damaged from the missing cap. (Yes, I know that area is absolutely filthy. I haven't gotten around to de-greasing the front end yet).

Been offline most of last week due to having child #2. We were excited, exhausted, and most importantly, I was off work all week. I was able to make a bit of progress on this! As I post the installation of parts, I'll try to remember to include part numbers for folks to reference in the future. First, I finished up the 3 stage POR15 process on the underside of the car. Any spots that had any surface rust at all should not be a non-issue for a very long time. I also prepped and coated the more severely corroded parts of the subframe with POR15. I'm hoping that this helps with any future issues and keeps any dirt/moisture that is pooled in that area from reaching the aluminum. After the POR15, I blew out the inside of the frame rails and channels and sprayed Eastwood's Internal frame coating in them. It was a bit messy, but I feel comfortable that the internal surfaces are now more protected then they were. Time will tell for sure I guess.Then I prepped the whole area and sprayed a nice thick coat of 3M rubber undercoating to finish protecting everything. Here are the products used for battling future rust and corrosion. Then I moved on to the differential. I cleaned up the cover and per another thread I saw over on SS, I added a NPT style drain plug in an accessible place at the bottom of the diff cover. Now I can actually service the rear differential fluid! I also drilled out the tiny little vent hole slightly and added a newer style Volvo breather fitting and filter. Be careful drilling, I don't remember what size bit I use, but the fitting should be a press fit. (Fitting: 8689527) (filter cap: 30681138). Sealed with Volvo Pink Anerobic. Moving on to the differential, I used a wire wheel to clean up as much of the surface rust as possible. used some rust converter and painted it. It's not great, but looks miles better than before. Here are the seals that I used for the Differential: (Axles x2: 8653928) and (Pinion: 9143287). Installation was fairly straightforward although I'm still trying to verify the pinion nut torque so I can finish that up. More Volvo pink stuff: Diff cover installed and new mounting bushings installed. Don't mind the extreme mess. It had been a long day and it's cleaned up now. I worked on the axles for a while and couldn't find a good way to remove the boots at the larger ends. Basically I gave up trying to take them apart and rebuild. They rarely seem to fail and if there is an issue later on, I'll just source some lower mile used ones. I can't justify spending $400+ each for new ones when these still seem fine. I tried to inject some more grease under the small end of the boot, but it didn't go all that well, hoping that I got enough in there to prolong the life for a while longer. I did clean up the rusty inner and outer drivers and POR15 them and cleaned up and removed the rust on the shaft and painted them with some leftover engine paint I had laying around. Probably won't hold up forever, but looks good enough for now. I also cleaned up and de-greased the fuel tank and surge tank. . I installed the new fuel pump (9470674) and Ejector (9478840). I also started playing with the fuel lines. Apeacock was nice enough to send me some extra line-to-pump fittings from the junkyard, but unfortunately like my originals, most of them were too damaged to use once removed and the factory lines removed. I went in to the local parts store armed with my fuel pumps, lock rings, fittings, etc. and spent a great deal of time sorting through their quick connect fittings (This is an old school Car Quest store that is family run and always seems to have oddball stuff like this readily available. Don't bother at Advance, Auto Zone, etc, as I just got blank stares). Anyways, they had 5/16" quick connect 90 degree plastic fittings that fit on the pumps and came very close to being tall enough with the lock rings installed. I did have to use the Dremel and shave just a little bit off of the lock ring where the lines pass over it, but only a couple mm at most shouldn't affect the structural rigidity of the lock rings at all. I'm very excited to have another option besides used factory fittings. They had 2 in stock, and I have 2 more that should arrive tomorrow. I forgot the brand, but I'll get the brand and part number when I pick up the others. I also (after quite the learning curve) figured out how to properly attach the nylon lines to these fittings. At this point, I only have the center crossover pipe on the tank done, but I'll be re-doing all of the lines with 5/16 nylon and replacing nearly all of the rusty metal lines. Pictures are just of test fit. Lastly, I installed the 6 bushings into the subframe. (2x each of Volvo: 1387226, and 9140469, as well as 1x Superpro kit: SPF2012K) This was a fairly time consuming process, but went decently well all things considered using a standard ball joint screw press like you would rent from the parts store. I did have to custom make a weird shaped plate to help install the smaller upper arm bushings as there is nowhere on the subframe for the press to push against unless you make a special plate. Makes more sense when you see it I guess. Also froze the bushings before pressing them in to help just that little bit. Also remember to liberally lube the middle shaft on any of the polyurethane bushings to avoid squeaking. I used grease from Energy suspension. And all of them done! Powder coated parts should be done in the next couple of days and the last large shipment of parts shows being shipped at the end of last week. Gotta keep chipping away at this and hopefully I'll have it back on the road before winter.

^ I'm pretty well invested into this and didn't even get a happy ending.

The first step of prepping the body was to actually clean it. 20 years and 240k of grime under here. I used purple power at 100% strength and a few different shapes of scrub brushes, then rinsed with fresh water in a spray bottle. By the end of last night I was dirty, wet, sore, and tired, but it's clean. The left side has been cleaned compared to the right side and very top of the picture which are untouched. And all clean! The dark spots are either surface rust that will get the POR15 treatment, or some residual undercoating. You can also see the gussets I added between the frame rail and subframe mounts I'm not sure why the PO decided to use hot pink spray paint over the area where they cut the floor to access the fuel pump. Probably going to seam seal that area and call it good.

I spend a good bit of time on youtube and I'm a little upset I hadn't seen that before! So neat!

Nice! Didn't realize LSD was even available on these cars! Are the connectors original take-offs or ? PM me what you want shipped to 46506 please! And thank you!

Good to know! Thanks for that!

The front is happening too during this project. IPD springs, Koni Yellows, INA bearing plates, IPD upper mounts IPD sway bar, Lemforder Control arms (FCP warranty for torn boots), etc.. The links, and tie rods were new 2 years ago and still look fine. Also while I'm up there, I need to change the turbo and downpipe to angle flange style, repair the column bushing where it goes through the floor, throttle cable, Silicone intercooler hoses, and half a dozen other petty things. Probably won't be powder coating anything up there though. Most parts will be new, and the subframe is still so oil saturated from the previous leaks that I'm not messing with it. Also the steering rack does have some issues that I'm not positive how to address yet. I really don't want to buy a new one, but we'll see when I get to that point.

I guess I better have the IPD sway bars and all of the poly bushings changed to black too!! . I probably shouldn't mention the silicone intercooler hoses that are getting installed as part of this project either... . My wife tells me that blue and orange are opposites on the color wheel or something like that, so they can go together. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea, but we like it. Subtle touches, calipers will be black, nothing blue easily visible from outside the car. Gotta let my inner ricer flow a little bit though! Thanks for the compliments. It's a long tunnel, but I can start to see the light at the end.

So I finally got the crossmember welded up last night. I feel that it is structurally sound, but I'm not posting many pictures of the welds because they are not pretty. The combination of laying on my back to weld and some of the areas being fairly thin resulted in some less than stellar looking welds, maybe I'll get some better pictures after I grind/clean them up better and paint. I also added a small gusset to the area just to give a little more support. Anyways: The next project will be to finish cleaning and de-greasing the rest of the underside of the floor and then POR-15 the rusty areas and paint/undercoat everything else. Ordered another batch of misc parts this week too. A couple of suspension pieces, various clips and retainers that I broke during disassembly. New snap rings for the rear wheel bearings.. Etc.

Is this back on the tank or somewhere else? I'm working on re-doing all of the fuel lines on my '98 R and these stupid quick connections are the biggest issue I've been running into. The standard push-to-click ends that are available at the parts store are too short and won't clear the lock ring and the straight versions are too tall and hit the floor. I did find adapters online that will click onto the fuel pump and have A/N fitting adapters on them for A/N lines. I haven't tried them yet though to check the fitment. I wish the original ends were still available. That would make this easy with some nylon tubing.

Price for the throttle cable shipped to 46506? The plastic on mine is broken between the electric plug and the firewall and I think it's causing weird issues.

It was after brake cleaner. For some reason the flash on the camera went off when I took the picture and made everything look funny. The metal is all clean, shiny and looks normal in person. Welder acquired. Should be repairing that crossmember rust tonight. Fingers crossed.

Got the diff opened up and cleaned out last night. The bearings seem to be in pretty good shape so as much as it pains my OCD, I'm probably not going to mess with them. I will however be trying to track down new pinion and axle seals. Also, on the diff cover, I plan on adding the newer style vent fitting as well as some sort of easy-to-access drain. I saw these mods in one of the threads on SS and then seem easy enough. Lastly, I am trying to figure out what all is going on inside the diff. It's obvious that there is more in there than the standard spider gears like most differentials I've seen. But it doesn't act like a limited slip. What are all these extra parts for?

Dropped a bunch of parts off to be powder coated this morning. Everything here will be wrinkle black except for the coil springs which will be blue that should closely match the IPD springs up front. (Springs are now about 1.8 coils shorter than this picture)

Which bushing? I think I have them all in either OEM or Poly at this point.

I had a few hours last night to mess with this some more and took a wire wheel to the rusty areas to make any issues more visible as well as clean up the loose surface rust on the places that are getting POR15. That wasn't fun laying under the car... I was able to clean out and inspect the rear subframe mount brackets and both of them seem to be in good shape. Just the fronts have issues. I did find the right side of this frame crossmember to have a small rust hole and some cracking also, although the rust wasn't as severe as the left side. I think I can repair the right side fairly easily without taking removing the subframe bracket. I am a little concerned as to why this crossmember is cracking though. There isn't anything heavy mounted directly to it (subframe bracket is technically mounted to the side frame rails) and I don't see where there would be much stress on it. Not sure why it would be cracking unless the rust just has the metal that thin.. Either way. I'll weld it up and hope for the best. Here is the left side: I got the left side cleaned up too and there is definitely some metal missing now. Thankfully, the front-to-rear frame rail seems to be in good shape, the crack I was seeing inside of the subframe bracket was actually part of the side-to-side frame rail. There is a tab that overlaps onto the side frame rails and that had rusted away leaving a gap. I feel better about that, but will still likely make a patch to go under the bracket to repair what is now missing. Here is the right side after wire-wheel : I'm going to be borrowing a good MIG welder later this week and over the weekend. Hope to have this taken care of soon so I can move on with the project!

Upon talking with someone much better at welding than me, it would seem that the best (and only) way to correctly fix this would be to grind the welds off and remove the bracket completely. Then the cracked area can be repaired (patched with new metal most likely), then the bracket can be welded back on. That's a bit more than I was hoping to have to do, but it'll be fixed right. I'm toying with the idea of cutting them all off, that way I can clean behind them all thoroughly. The other thing I may do, is weld the entire perimeter of each bracket so that water and other harmful stuff can't get inside of them anymore. Since they aren't welded all the way around originally, water can run right in and get trapped. Either that, or I'm going to swiss cheese them so that any water that enters can flow right out easily and I can paint/coat inside easily too. Havent decided yet

Last night I worked on cleaning up the underside of the car in hopes of taking care of the several areas of surface rust. I'm going to clean them, remove any loose flaky rust and grind away as much corrosion as I can, then go through the complete POR15 3 step process to take care of it once and for all. I'm also going to try Eastwood's "Internal frame coating" on the inside of the rails (from the bumper brackets looking in) They are pretty good shape, but there is some surface rust in there. Hopefully this helps it. Most of the underside looks decent but the front left mounting bracket for the rear subframe had a soft area and once I got to poking at it I opened up a pretty significant hole. It seems that all of these added-on brackets for the AWD subframe collect a bunch of debris and start to rust from the inside out. There is a small drain hole in each, but they were all clogged with crud. The other 3 brackets look ok for now, but I spent a good amount of time poking a screwdriver in through the bolt hole and loosening up sand/salt/dirt that is packed inside, then blowing them out with compressed air. Not sure how I will prevent more corrosion inside of the brackets. Maybe I'll just pack them full of grease or Fluid film before installing the subframe. The 4th bracket (front left) will need a patch welded in due to the rust hole. I started cleaning up the area with a wire brush wheel in preparation for welding. Then I noticed another more disturbing issue. The side-to-side frame rail that is adjacent to this bracket is a bit rusted at the end and had actually cracked. It is also cracked underneath the subframe bracket and was only visible through the rust hole.I think I can get a welder in there enough to make a few tack welds, but it may be too rusty to get clean welds. I'm going to have a friend that is a bit better at welding look at it tonight, hoping for the best. What do you guys think of this? Here is the bracket with the hole in it as well as the part of the crack outside of the bracket: Here is the crack inside of the bracket. I'm worried that the only way to truly fix this would be to remove the bracket to repair the area and weld it back on. How structural is this area?

Can't vouch for who owns the car but as far as stereo stuff is concerned, i swapped out the "supposedly amazing" SC-901 in the C70 with this Kenwood DDX470 unit and it has literally been the best mod I've done to this car. Originally I had it wired directly to the speakers, but it sounded a bit flat. It did take some wiring witchcraft (above my head) to get it wired through the factory 4x100 amp, but once we got it working I was very impressed. Sounds better than the SC901, and has infinitely more features. 10/10 would recommend. If you don't have a 4x100 system, I'd go with an aftermarket amp that is similar spec to power the stock Dynaudio speakers.