volvoguy23

I need me some of that! Very nice!

And call me mayonnaise

Finally

Considering your running iirc stock cams/valves and head you would probably have to push close to 60lbs/min to get up to the 480whp goal without cams and head work but I'm no expert. I think thats very impressive considering it's awd at higher elevation and at only 24psi with that turbo. Also the e85 helps greatly. Great work!

Love it! Very impressive, the power is so linear it just pulls and pulls. Are the valve seats ok? Is that turbo efficient past 25psi? I think we should make a threa for videos like these, I would love to post videos of pulls and such.

Don't know if it's possible or not but perhaps maybe a keeper stuck to the top of the cam cover when you took it off? You look at that? Really strange... 

Yea me too, I'm worried more about the stock brakes and transmission. Andy would you recommend using a tow dolly on a stock fwd turbo wagon to tow other fwd Volvo's?

You'll like the manual throttle cable much more, you'll have much better control over the throttle and your shifts will be smoother. Everything should swap right over, either computer will work but using the auto ecu the rpm's will drop quicker when shifting IIRC..some prefer it, some don't.

And of course your going to want to take the trans ecu out or you'll get a flashing arrow.

I had the car running great and there were no vac or boost leaks I was aware of... I'm definitely interested and will send a pm. I really like the sound of this mod.

Makes more sense for interested people to contact him via PM, since this is hand built product. It's not as if the word won't get around.

Yeah your right, just saying this a nice feature since many people including myself always thought it was the clutch or something else causing the hang up, never really looked into it I guess. Also when doing a burnout at the strip when I would go to push the clutch in after full throttle burnout my rpm's would hang and very slowly climb back down and is very obnoxious, would this eliminate that or is that a different issue?

Fixed, sorry just woke up.

I've always hated that about trying to shift fast as well, makes it hard to shift at higher rpm's quickly. You could probably sell a lot of those on here if you made a post about it and what it does specifically. I would love to have one!

Yeah I almost asked this other day, it would be cool to see like 2-3 gear pull, just the cluster if it's easier.. It's been a while I believe...

400whp on a 20g. Got damn. I was going to try and tune my high hp build myself but that's not going to happen. These whiteblocks aren't very forgiving and are not good candidates to learn tuning on. Think I'm going to leave it to a pro like yourself. Much kudos to you sir. You'll be getting a pm from me in a few months. Now for a video of some 3rd and 4th gear pulls I guess that's if you can find a dry road as you are in Colorado...

Hah that's awesome!

M56 with only 80k? Luccckkkyyyy!!!

You shouldn't be able to break that one for a while anyway haha.

Your cam timing off by chance? It's a 100psi even on all cylinders that's pretty odd. I'm sure you've checked but have to make sure, maybe it jumped a couple teeth or something silly

Thank god you didn't sell it and thank god the motor is fine!!!! I wanna guess that maybe the oil pick up tube was bent or the oring wasn't seated all the way?? Idk not obvious is kinda hard lol

Soooo..... What's going on? Are you still selling or have you decided to tear it apart? I hope you post back with a "replaced bearings and all is good now"

But I'm sure you haven't touched it due to frustration.. Little update would be great!!!

Yea that's basically what I said at the end of page 1.

In other words the oil pressure is very low by the time it reaches the oil sender because the oil travels through to all the bearings before the sender.

Because all the pressure is lost at the lubrication hole underneath the bearing... Or oil galley what ever you wanna call it.

From the bearing that has been spun..

Hopefully the crank isn't damaged at all and you can just throw a new pair of bearings in.... How long since the rebuild?

Also when mine happened the light came on right after I got into 2nd I think I threw the bearing slamming 2nd, I immediately did exactly what you did while in parking lot right down the street.. I thought maybe it was just a false alarm or the sender got clogged or something at least that's what I was hoping.. Car ran fine as well... Thrown bearings will give no signs unless you keep driving..

When I spun my rod bearing the motor sounded fine for about 20 minutes while driving and the light wouldn't go off. As I started to get home it slowly started to knock then it was getting louder and louder and then it went boom and shot a rod through the block.

The light is gonna stay on if a bearing is spun.

If I would've just the car off as soon as the light came on I would've been able to rebuild it. I wouldn't run it at all or you risk damaging the crank and/or rod(s)

Omg