hotpantslovebug

I think i know what you are trying to say. After your rebuild you noticed coolant boiling. I.e you hear coolant bubbling when the car is shut down? you then removed the coolant lines to the turbo and the issue went away? how did you route your coolant lines to the turbo? If you route the inlet and outlet wrong you will hear gurgling upon shutdown. The correct way ensures coolant is automatically circulated via convection when the engine is stopped.

Do we know the food situation? I haven't heard of any donate or support stuff this year. I will gladly donate time and monies like every year.

yes :D just pre-ordered my tickets!

I'm running this https://www.amazon.com/AEM-21-2059BF-DryFlow-Air-Filter/dp/B004XH68PM If I remember my math correctly it flows like 930cfm, @22psi on my 2.5 I think it requires something like 830cfm. Realistically you want to run the largest filter you can fit. You don't want your filter causing any restriction.

Nice setup! Went with a j pipe and welded bungs but its not as clean as couplers. Plus you need to mount your battery side ways.

Would it be a terrible idea to have Matt Farah from the smoking tire drive your wagon? I think it would be so awesome for everyone to see all the hard work you've put into this monster. Some Volvo love.. per say.

2inch (depends on how low) PVC and heat gun, nice and slow. I only rolled what i needed. I didn't want to buy the tool either...

Glad you got it fixed! The cam trigger on 98's are keyed one way, you can reverse them(accidentally bend the key) and the car will just backfire and sorta run. I'm guessing the RN cams aren't keyed as you found out. Sometimes all the headaches make modifying volvos a nightmare... then you overcome and it makes it all worth it. Best of luck, look forward to see how she pulls.

So this spaghetti rod is from your current power levels and not detonation correct? If so, as shitty as it is least you were making good power GLWB

Have you looked into a new pair of OEM plugs, not platinum? Seen them around for 30 a set which is expensive but they have yet to give me problems even 30k later. Also I know a lot of guys with bigger turbos have gone to the MSD6 box, usually 150ish on ebay. That could help support the power you're putting down, only down side is car/rotor/plug life.

Second the black magic connect, turn key, connect, fire up. Usually works but sometimes it just won't do it and you ened up looking weird starting and restarting..... I also found that if i idle for say over 5min it will just drop connection, pretty sure just hitting reconnect it comes back no problem. Is there a reason your STFT moves during WOT?

Awesome that did the trick! I did change the 10 to 12 which got it closer but i think I'll have to adjust the formula a lot more as its .5 ish off. I'm sure some math would make it so we could all get spot on numbers but not my strong suit.. thank you!!

A formula would be appreciated. I've connected everything as you stated. Rear 02 set to 1. I previously cut my rear o2 wires so reattached and spliced into the black wire(following the connecter it corresponded with the brown wire are the harness). Kinda hard to solder unless i remove the intake tube. I'll give my wiring a once over again but it doesn't seem to be working.

Could you expand on your exact Pinouts for wideband logging. Currently trying to get my AEM wideband connected, I tried using the stock harness and aem 0-5v analog output but maybe I should just go directly to the ecu pins.