Uncle Boost

Nice pic of the granny going in.. So even with the suffrage out of the way the engine stays in play or do you have it supported while up on the lift as well? *tranny

Man thats Nice!!! You've been a busy boy. Question, did you have to drop the subframe to get the Transmission out? Is this pretty much SOP for V/S R's?

Yoo Hooooooooo! Don't forget Meeeeeee!!! I just stumble upon this! Keep me posted. I am only in Greensboro Near Grandover. You pass my house on the way to Charlotte on 85 south. Get at me!

Still no Clutch Cycling? ..Wire a Test light into the wire(s) that plug into the compressor. Jumper the Switch, If the light comes on, then you have a compressor Clutch issue. NO light, Check Fuses....Fuse good? Check for open wires (continuity).

^^^ Thas funny as H3LL !! :lol:

Boston, Springfield, Pittsfield.....Mass drivers...I know what you mean. We all need NATHAN Locomotive "P" Series Air Chime kits...BLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! Unleashing a Blast Of Cool Air Chime Air in the middle of a downtown District at Lunchtime would be like a Nuke Blast! Imagine having a Friend with a Camcorder Filming the ENTIRE Scene... Every person on the sideway, In any Vehicle will SCHNIT there pants and Jump like MJ... ...delivered from a mild mannered Volvo and no one will Ever know!!

Oh Yeaaaaaaaaaah! I remember that now! Valet mode....Thats probably why mine wouldn't program until I took it out of that mode. That explains it then... Seems like Volvos came with a Standard key, and a Valet Key (shorter key???) so that a valet could only access the ign and the doors but not the trunk correct?

man don't think for a minute youre a Bother...Thats why we're here to share info. But yeah my led was working. And the funny thing about it was I was at work in the middle of the day when I programmed my 94 and could see the the led in broad daylight. Have Volvo try to program your car with a brand New remote. That way you'll know if its a remote problem or not. And like I mentioned before, ALL the remotes I had checked out Fine at the dealer.....But only the NEW one I got off ebay would make the car respond. (96 855R). The remotes I got for the 94 855 came off ebay too. They worked once I had the tailgate lock in the right spot. ( 1 thing I didn't mention was like a couple of days before that I had to take my tailgate apart to lubricate the motorized lock mechanism because it wouldn't lock/unlock even with the key used in the drivers door despite the fact that the rest of the locks did) <---------- So once I got that working, I was able to make the programming work. Wierd but true. One note.....I remember there being like 5 or 6 wires going to the tailgate lock mechanism....It only takes 3 wires to lock and unlock a motorized DC motor to make it reverse direction etc. Those other wires have a purpose and My thinking is that it tells the Remote Receiver that All systems are "GO" back here..."Lock the rest of the car"

When you lock the Drivers door do all doors lock? Trunk too? If so, when you Unlock from the drivers door do all locks unlock including the trunk? Before you program, make sure all locks are "UNLOCKED". And like I mentioned before, I even had my remotes that came with the car tested at a Volvo Dealership by the Service manager and the little thing he tested it on worked on both Unlock and Lock (Leds on his test box showed they worked) But I never could get them to work with my car...Don't know why.... Only after I bought a new one did it work. Maybe I will try them now since I have the new one actuating everything now.... Check all your fuses too to make sure you don't have any blown fuses.

yeah..Now that you mention it...I hear the little Click and it almost sounds like a "Ping" or "Beep" sound coming from the NEW remote....The Old remotes are mushy and don't click at all.. Weird.

..Don't 850 turbos or N/A's have Interference Engines? Meaning in the event of a broken belt, especially when accerlerating like my man said, out the toll booth, The pistons will Kiss the Valves? I agree with rebuilding. A replacement car will Far out weigh the cost of a rebuild IMO...That is doing it yourself.

Thanks for the info. I recently had a problem with TOO MUCH Boost...Whoa! The needle was Pegging on the Gauge and when I would "Get on it" a bit...I figured the Waste gate wasn't doing its thing so I began checking the hoses and found them...ALL of them to be weathered and Brittle as H3LL....The one that went to the Wastegate was cracked. Replaced them with Silicon hoses fixed the problem....The boost was so overwhelming the engine would flutter and skip on Heavy accelleration. It never set a code in the ECU Though and that also puzzled me. Shouldn't you get a code if you have too much boost? My 94 855 did. I guess the 96 855 R's are different to some extent.??? anybody know? I am gonna give this super 60 a go one day when I have some spare time. I also just aquired another 850 turbo engine for rebuilding so when mine Craps out ...(* 245kmiles on it now) I will have one to drop right in. Where is the best place to get a rebuild kit like Rings, Bearings, Gaskets etc.?? thanks -= UB =-

What type of welder do you have? I have a MIG but would have to have a SPOOL gun to use it and 99% argon for shielding gas. Pushing aluminum wire through a 6 foot MIG hose is a PITA ! ! I am looking at Upgrading since I love working with Aluminum.

I have several questions about a Super 60 Turbo I have just aquired. I own a 96 855 R. It has the stock turbo on it now which is great. Will I need to make any mods to this Super 60 turbo to install it? How much more power will I get and how is the Boost curve compared to what in the car now? Is the Super 60 more of a top end turbo or low end torque? I was told The turbo has a "super 60" compressor wheel, so that makes it a td04hl super 60. it is not a 15g, 16t, 18t, or 19t it is a super 60.<-------Direct quote of what i was told. Is this a decent turbo? thanks in advance. UB