prasamin

You may or may not remember the bumper looking this funny....something was definitely not right about it lol Then, of course there was this small issue caused by the old man about a minute after I got on a plane to India 6 years ago! Thanks Dad!

I had bought a complete S60R rear BBK for my car about 7 years ago, but never got around to putting the kit on....Aaron was kind enough to do his first powdercoat on my calipers many years ago, and Reid was kind enough to get them and hold them for me for the last several years. I was finally able to get them from Reid and have them installed. I had the calipers, rotors, brackets, and new pads sitting around for 7 years! This is the day the rear BBK and trans oil was done....hmm....where's the bumper, you may ask...

I also had some time to play around with spacing I have 15mm spacers up front, which are nearly perfect (might go with 17mm later), and I had 25mm in the rear, which always bothered me because the wheels sat too far in after getting the custom fenders.....so, I got a great deal on some 32mm adapters, so I bought them for some trial fits, and realized that even those weren't enough.....so, I stacked some spacers together until i got the wheel exactly where I wanted, measured the stack, and ordered spacers from an online store that made them for me hub and wheel centric for $130....yeah, about $70 cheaper than Motor-sport tech, and same quality, and great service.....if you need the guy's info, PM me and I can tell you....I ended up needing 42mm....yeah, 42mm....but it looks AMAZING....final reveal pics will come later for all of this stuff!! here are pics with the 32mm on there etc....not enough for me: Here is a pic of the 42mm spacers...the stacked set is 25 + 17mm spacers = 42mm....had those on for a couple of weeks to trial them, and while I waited for the 42mm set...

I also had a very occasional slight grind when going into 3rd....i was dreading that it was a syncro issue...but Aaron suggested that I flush out the old fluid and use RP or Redline....I ended up with Royal Purple....and guys, I have to tell you, the difference over the OEM Volvo fluid is NIGHT AND DAY. It doesn't take as long for the fluid to warm up, so the shifting is easy within seconds of startup, and it shifts silky smooth......and GUESS WHAT>>>>NO GRINDS. don't ask me how, but no grinds since switching to Royal Purple....I have no explanation for it....i also don't remember the OEM Volvo fluid being that color that you see coming out....strange....

I also wanted to reduce the height of the shift knob, so I went to my body shop guy, and used his grinder to cut the shaft down! You can see how much was cut off....it's actually perfect...no more hitting the radio, and not short enough to cause too much resistance...feels awesome....i also switched to a few different shift knobs, and I'm not 100% settled on the one in there, but I have to say it is cool looking and it's really great quality for being a china knock-off.....the one pictured below is the one I had initially, and I've since switched to a ball shaped shifter....same black leather with red stitch, but ball shaped and no MOMO on it.....it's awesome...can't find the pics of it at the moment...

Another bothersome issue was my battery drain....i'd have the car fully charged, and if I left it off the trickly charger for 2-3 days, it would be hard to start, and sometimes not start at all. Traced the issue to a bad capacitor i had in the trunk to power the sub....got rid of that, and while I was in there, decided to change the settings on the KW's so that I wouldn't be bouncing all over the place. I also drilled some access holes in the floor so that I could adjust the shocks without having to remove the panels... Easy access with the allen key to adjust stiffness...i had to make the KW's a bit stiffer to stop the bouncy feel and to avoid some pretty bad rubbing on dips and large bumps.... One of the sidemarkers wasn't working, so I had to open it up and resolder a connection....got that working!! The repair thread:

The first thing on the list was to figure out why the speedo hasn't worked since putting the car back together. We went through all of these complicated scenarios for years, and tried some things that never worked. I had a bright idea to swap the cluster out, and the simplest thing that we should have tried first worked. Yazaki clusters are finicky, so I had a bunch laying around, and put mine together using the best parts from a few that I had....with accurate mileage.... Here is the Yazaki repair thread: finally got speed back!

So, since I moved back to Texas, I've been doing some small things here and there to get the car back into satisfactory shape. There was some things not working, falling apart, left to do (all minor stuff), that I finally got to. It's been tough with my traveling and interviews, and studying, but whenever I needed a small break, I'd spend an hour or two doing something to the car. You may not notice a major difference, but it's getting there. I won't be able to do anything major like finish the paint scheme I wanted, or tuning for now. Anyway, stay tuned for pics as I organize things. This is in no particular order, so don't take the timeline literally....everything happened randomly so I can't remember what was done in what order. Thanks for opening this guy back up, Greg!

yeah, i'm in, like I already told you when we corresponded! edit: if you're selling for cost, which at that price, i really think you are pretty close to it, then i'd talk to chuck and you may not need vendor status, as carson mentioned. that might even bring the price down a bit, though i wouldn't mind if you still kept it at $40 to have some money for your R&D.

That's eerie because I think a lot of people would agree lol

is there a story behind that gif? like what's actually happening there?

who was on George Bush Turnpike / 160 at about 945pm this evening....850 turbo sedan possibly 427 / charcoal / dark grey stock with columbas, but either hyperwhite headlights and HID fogs or both HID's.... near the Trinity / Shady Grove exit... license plate started with "JRR"

I don't see carbon being very practical from a cost and fabrication standpoint

1. MattyXXL - 3 2. Goldponcho - 2 3. gmsgltr - 2 4. Kevin - 2 5. Oreo931 - 2 6. ruecatinat -1 7. prasamin - 1 I'd rather not have the "R" logo, but if that's all that you have, no issues. I might just fill it and paint over it if I really don't like it.

I gave him some advice too....hopefully something comes together soon. I'm not sure if he can really sell the number of units he was thinking initially. I told him to keep the number down on the initial buy, and if there is enough sales of that, then maybe do another batch. he'd be losing too much money if he made too many at once....plus, i think end-user options of color and mounting will be better for all of us.

damn...just scored a nice part at the local JY, and i need that plastic dash piece!!!!! I might just cut a thick piece of vinyl in black and stick it over my cracked piece if this doesn't work out!

curious if you had to shave the plastic rails in the housing for the double din pioneer, and where you got the trim surround/bezel for it?

Hpayyb irthday! Jeremy! you son of a bitch! screw guns....we do't need gun control....we need gun elimination

Gotta admit that Piers is absolutely right. I saw this "debate" last night.

I mean any Matt who reads this. Since you claimed the game, I guess it means you. Don't you dare try to tickle my butthole, though.