pfeener

That could be your issue. If you were sitting in the engine compartment, looking out at the bracket, it would loosen in a counter clockwise direction, or put another way, if your breaker bar was on the bolt head and pointing out toward the front of the car you would lift the breaker bar up to loosen the bolt.

I'm a little confused; are you trying to remove the 36mm axle nut. If not I can't figure out what you would be using a breaker bar and a large socket for. Are you trying to take off the wheels or the caliper mounting bracket? The rotors come off relatively easily: remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper mounting bracket and the alignment stud on the face of the rotor and most rotors will come off with a few slight "love" taps with a mallet.

I would use a flush product. The kind you can leave in for a few hundred miles. Read the label and see if it has any detergent to disolve the oil. Also keep in mind you're seeing a lot of oil because the oil will float on top of the water and will make it's way to the tank over time. The other guys are right though; it may take a couple of flushes to get it done.

If you bought the hard semi-opaque tubing it won't go over unless you heat it a little with a heat gun or a torch (very carefully and it's a pain in the butt). The best thing to buy is the clear soft 1/2 inch tubing (the cheap stuff). It will stretch and fit right over the hose end.

Marciano: there's nothing unusual; the RH axle is held in place by the bearing and has no clip. It is supposed to just slide right out. Clean it up as best you can and give it a light coating of grease before you reinstall it. To Guest: yes you can use a wire brush. DO NOT use metal adhesive on the wheel bearing end unless you never want to take it apart again. I know Volvo says to do it, but even the Volvo techs don't use it. Use grease on the wheel bearing end and nothing on the transaxle end.

The link didn't come over correctly. It's ebay item number 120017889934, currently listed for $9.99.

Sorry for all the posts: This is the puller I have: I've had it for 35 years and it's never failed me. It is really heavy duty. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heavy-Duty-...sspagenameZWDVW

One more thing you may not be aware of: after you get the puller mounted and you get a fair amount of tension on the axle shaft, you will need to give the center bolt on the puller a wack with a large hammer and then take up more tension on the axle. Repeat until the axle breaks free.

May sure the seal fits before you rip out the old one. After you get the axle out, hold the new seal up to the old one still in the transaxle and see if the OD matches up. Then fit the new one over the axle to make sure the ID fits. You may be able to use that puller by turning the jaws around so they'll fit over the edge of the hub. Usually the puller you want to use bolts up to the hub. See link below. http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?Cat...&RootID=629

My guess it would be only at the dealership or places like FCP, but call around.

Put the control arm back on and thread the axle nut on so it's flush with the end of the axle and give it a couple of good swings with the mallet. If you don't put the control arm back on you will have nothing to hold the steering knuckle while you hit in the axle and you'll be driving the axle shaft back into the transaxle (not a good thing). If you can't get it to break loose, go get a puller. After it's broken loose you can remove the control arm and slide the end of the axle out past the steering knuckle. There's no "prying" necessary to get the passenger side (RH side) axle out. You remove the bolts holding the bearing and break that loose and the axle shaft will slide right out. The seal is right there. Either use a seal puller or a pry bar to pop it out, being careful not to score the mating surface on the transaxle. Tap the new one in flush with the surface of the transaxle. DO NOT pull on the axle itself allowing the CV joints to extend out past their limit of travel. You can rip the boots and end up with the axle in two pieces and grease all over the place.

Rotors don't always pulse on the brake pedal. If they get bad enough they'll shake the whole front end when applied at highway speed.

It's in the "pinned" section (at the top of the page) of this forum under "volvo useful threads for repairs".

Just an FYI: When you tighten the plug, just snug it up, don't put any pressure on it at all or it will break off and then it's a real PITA.

I have a 98 S70 as well and have had the same issue getting the monitor routines to run. One time after I did some work and reset a CEL I drove the car for 1500 miles over a 2 month period and the monitor routines hadn't even started to run. What I usually do when this happens is reset it again and drive for a few hundred miles. If the routines still haven't started to complete I reset it again. I find that once the routines start to run, they will complete within a few hundred miles, but if I have driven 500 miles or so and the routines haven't started to run, they will never start.