TorqueSteer

Ah I told you months ago that this was the issue! I have almost the same turbo and had the same exact problem. Venting to atmosphere solved everything.

Concerning the 850's, a setup like that is actually safer than stock considering that the only anchorage is on the bottom of the spring.

You are looking at it the wrong way. There is no force on the clamp unless the car is jacked up or the rear end goes completely airborne. Its just to hold a non pigtailed spring in the cup when the car is jacked or the rear end leaves the ground. Ive had my springs like that for over 3 years, with just a super thick zip tie, no problems...yet :lol:

For those who feel that they are on the right track, you can expand a bit on this subject. Every year during Thanksgiving time, people probably mention, "What are you thankful for?" This year, try to turn it around, and ask yourself "Who is thankful for me?" Start now, so that by November, you can have a few answers to the question.

What is the ratio of public debt to GDP in Belgium?

I had a similar problem with my Hahn 16g. I was blowing oil smoke out of the exhaust, presumably due to high crankcase pressure from oil blowby. I added a catch can and the problem got even worse. I ended up setting up a simple road draft tube, meaning I ran a hose from the PCV outlet all the way down to the bottom of the car and just left the tube open there. After that mod, no more smoke out of the exhaust, just a bit of oil smoke from the PCV vent to atmosphere. Its by no means a permanent solution, but its a good test, I thought the turbo was blown until I tried the draft tube approach.

Do you have the law and code which states this? What do you mean by aftermarket? If my hypothetical Honda Accord exhaust rusts out, Advance Auto parts sells an aftermarket exhaust which mimics the stock setup. Answered my own question http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/general-...re-posting.html I find it interesting that the Ferrari 599 has an electronic exhaust cutout and is sold in Florida in spite of this code: "No person shall use a muffler cutout, bypass or similar device upon a vehicle on a highway. "

Its scary how many Nazis fled to Argentina after the war. Anways when I was in eastern Spain this summer, the people looked as white as any other non-hispanic Europeans and Americans.

I completely agree with you, I did not give my opinion on the original matter, I simply stated that it is possible to live in the U.S without speaking english when he said that it was not.

Then you are blatantly ignoring the truth that it is possible to live in the United States and not speak english.

If you have ever been to Miami, you would definately change your argument. You can speak only Spanish and live just fine in certain parts of Miami, you know something is wierd when you see every highway billboard written in Spanish.

Man that look sick, good luck with the nira install, is the harness universal and you have to wire it yourself? About the intercooler pipe, I also have a 2.5 inch pipe crammed right there in front of the radiator shroud, its so tight that it holds itself in place, its touching the oil and PS lines, but not putting any pressure on them as far as I know, ive had it for almost a year now and no leakage problems or anything.

362 whp on a stock Volvo engine, whats the problem here? I would have never expected it to last. What was Evolve thinking to mod a stock block to this hp and sell the kit to the public? Also how in the heck do those bolt ons cost $16410.00? Did they itemize what made up that cost?

I havent mesured the diameter of the 16g, but ive held both my 16g and 35r in my hands and the 35r compressor housing is most certainly larger, the exhaust sides seemed about the same, but the turbine wheel on the 35r was most certainly larger.

Wow that looks geat. What concerns me Is that I don't know how that compressor housing is going to clear the tranny mount thats below the turbo, even on my 16g I had to grind away at that mount and the compressor housing so that it will fit.

Darn that 244 is sexy!

Meh Ive always had it as tight as it can go, used with an MBC and bypassing the BCS, never had any problems. With the MBC settings left the same, tightening the wastegate arm will increase max boost with each turn.

Yes

I did the same to my car, but in the front, check the frame because I had bent it.

What are you going to calculate, give us some numbers since you know so much more than everyone else here.

Ya its fine for stock ecu, but when you install an upgraded ecu with more advanced timing tables, the ecu is going to advance until it hears knock, and using regular fuel will cause it to knock more quickly and the ecu will pull timing, thereby increasing the amount of detonation the motor experiences, as well as rendering the advanced timing tables that you are paying for to be useless.

I had some bolt pattern adapters made for 5x100, cost about $180, but then I needed to convert to studs and all that fun stuff..do yourself a favor and buy 5x108 rims.

If its a LED gauge, youd need to hook it up to a wideband controller which takes the wideband readings and converts it to the correct narrowband votage for the gauge to read correctly, even then its highly innacurate vs an actual number readout. If your planning on just hooking it up to a narrowband, it will be even more useless. If the tune ur using is ok, theres no reason to need to monitor your airfuel ratios.

why?

110 octane is where its at