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Some have pinged me for more details so adding below.. Basically you de-solder that 200K ohm stock resistor on back of the wiper relay, run two wires from those points out to your wiper stalk and hook them up to, one outside terminal, and one to the pot middle terminal, of your 500K ohm pot. There's a pic that shows the pot part number that I used. Then you will need to experiment to find the max ohm setting you can use. What happens is the wiper won't park and just keep running (i.e. not intermittent), if it's too many ohms. You'll need to note that ohm value where that threshold is, and then setup your particular circuit so the max ohm setting is a bit less than that max value. From my experiments on two cars, that max ohm correlates to about 16 to 17 seconds, between wipes. Remember, the goal is to get it to wipe once, then park, until the next cycle. If your ohm setting is too high, it won't park. If you find your max ohms is less than 500K, then you can add a shunt resistor (back in the stock R location on the wiper relay) to make your max ohms what you need (google how to calc parallel resistor networks if you're not familiar). If you need more than 500K, then just add necessary resistor value into one of the wires. Note this is RC tuning circuit so any currents will be very low; i.e. 1/4 or even 1/8 watt resistors and pots will be fine. Same w/wires; they can be small gauge, but use stranded (not solid copper) wires. I twisted the wires together (to make them twisted pair) running from the wiper relay to the stalk, to hopefully add some noise immunity. Biggest pain is finding a good route through the steering column so it doesn't snag on anything that moves; remember, not only have the turning steering wheel shaft, but also note column telescopes too. I did this mod on our two P80s (96 850 and 98 S70) but looks like the same wiper relay is used through 2000 MY, so should work for those too. https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9792/Intermittent-Wiper-Relay-P80-850-S70-V70-C70-960-for-Volvo-Aftermarket-171452-9140663-121164?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI676Q5o-s_AIVxODICh2vAwjqEAQYASABEgLWWfD_BwE Hopefully that's all clear? Ping me if you have any other questions.

Off topic from volvo: Anyone have experience with audi B8.5 S4 cars? B8.5 S4 ran from 2013 to 2016 MYs.

Last time I installed mine I added zerk grease fittings so never have to R+R to lube them again; did it to both cars; works well.

Love the pickup conversion!! Though don't think Joan Claybrook would approve..

Yep, feel the same about my 855T! They ain't making any more of them..

Rattles, what rattles?

Can't start a new topic in Volvospeed News so will reply here.. Curious why VS site is still in-secure (non-https) in this day and age?

That's really cool (or hot?)!! Xray vision Batman!

Maybe I missed it, but what cop coils are those? Ign1A maybe? And for compression checks, get yourself a remote starter switch; you'll love it.

UPDATE: That APPENDIX_J doc seems to have disappeared from the internets; if anyone has a link to a copy, please post it here and/or PM it to me. Here are some other links from that forum link above that may be as helpful though: OBD Readiness, EPA, Jan 2008 ; OBD Readiness, EPA, May 2011. ; OBD Readiness, EPA, June 2012. . The one from 2008 in particular is clear about the 96, 97, and 98 MY Volvo models that are (effectively) exempt; here's a snip from that doc: Here's a Service Bulletin that also discusses the topic of "readiness monitors": VolvoSB2-23-0056.PDF

Excellent work Matt! Really appreciate vids like this that are, not only interesting, but instructional too. I've always wanted to get a welder and learn how to, but haven't so far. For me, and I'm sure lots of others, this is really good stuff. I know nada about welding, but was concerned at first when you were going sleeve-less on your arms; glad to see you transitioned to sleeves in latter part of vid. Any newbie welder should check out pages like this for their own safety: www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/welding/ppe.html Would be interested in a review of the helmet/shield that you got too. Is that one of those where you can actually see through it, w/o an arc going? Without that feature, I'd always be worried I'd start welding with my mask still up (because I need to see what I'm working on!). Was also surprised about no mandrel bends either, but I'm assuming you can't get mandrels with angles even close to as tight as you have there. Imagine you'd get a bit better flow w/mandrels, but likely not that much different. At 3.5" diameter, don't think that should be too big of a concern..

Wait, what? VS was down?! Who did the re-solder? I've had to do mine multiple times now. You've got to clean off ALL the old solder first, or it will just break again (ask me how I know.. ). Look at the solder joints with a magnifier; you'll see the cracks if you look carefully. Or @Matty Moo could take care of you too: www.midwest-abs.com

Seems a zener would be a more appropriate solution, no? Thinking two zener diodes back to back (maybe a resistor in between) across the VR sensor leads?

Awesome results! Wasn't sure what you meant by "synch loss" but then found this link: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/megasquirt-vr/ Now I see. Good shielding on the VR sensor?

Man, that's fugly, but good job for the DIY ingenuity!