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gdog

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Posts posted by gdog

  1. Some have pinged me for more details so adding below..

    Basically you de-solder that 200K ohm stock resistor on back of the wiper relay, run two wires from those points out to your wiper stalk and hook them up to, one outside terminal, and one to the pot middle terminal, of your 500K ohm pot.  There's a pic that shows the pot part number that I used.

    Then you will need to experiment to find the max ohm setting you can use.  What happens is the wiper won't park and just keep running (i.e. not intermittent), if it's too many ohms.  You'll need to note that ohm value where that threshold is, and then setup your particular circuit so the max ohm setting is a bit less than that max value.  From my experiments on two cars, that max ohm correlates to about 16 to 17 seconds, between wipes.  Remember, the goal is to get it to wipe once, then park, until the next cycle.  If your ohm setting is too high, it won't park.

    If you find your max ohms is less than 500K, then you can add a shunt resistor (back in the stock R location on the wiper relay) to make your max ohms what you need (google how to calc parallel resistor networks if you're not familiar).  If you need more than 500K, then just add necessary resistor value into one of the wires.

    Note this is RC tuning circuit so any currents will be very low; i.e. 1/4 or even 1/8 watt resistors and pots will be fine.  Same w/wires; they can be small gauge, but use stranded (not solid copper) wires.  I twisted the wires together (to make them twisted pair) running from the wiper relay to the stalk, to hopefully add some noise immunity.

    Biggest pain is finding a good route through the steering column so it doesn't snag on anything that moves; remember, not only have the turning steering wheel shaft, but also note column telescopes too. 

    I did this mod on our two P80s (96 850 and 98 S70) but looks like the same wiper relay is used through 2000 MY, so should work for those too.

    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9792/Intermittent-Wiper-Relay-P80-850-S70-V70-C70-960-for-Volvo-Aftermarket-171452-9140663-121164?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI676Q5o-s_AIVxODICh2vAwjqEAQYASABEgLWWfD_BwE

    Hopefully that's all clear?  Ping me if you have any other questions.

    • Upvote 2
  2. On 6/14/2022 at 1:24 PM, gmsgltr said:

    in the process of buying new ipd front sway mounts/poly bushings - mine are plenty old enough and have never been re-lubed

    Last time I installed mine I added zerk grease fittings so never have to R+R to lube them again; did it to both cars; works well.

  3. On 7/10/2015 at 12:35 AM, gdog said:

    Update FYI:  Passed smog cert w/M4.4 ecu in there per above adjustments though it wasn't perfectly smooth sailing..

    Their equipment would not communicate with car's OBD2; guy says we'll have to scan it with the handheld scanner.  That seems to work but he notices the readiness monitor has not reset.  So then he does a tailpipe sniff test, which passes w/flying colors.  Supervisor has to come over and manually over-ride it as a pass since (I'm assuming) because of the readiness test not good.

    Did some research afterward; apparently it's common for 96-98 volvos to fail the readiness test so I'd say they're aware of the problem and let it go..

    below table from here:

    http://www.rlescalambre.com/APPENDIX_J.htm

    TABLE 1a The EIS Ignores Monitor Readiness Status
    Make Model Year Model DISP Action
    BMW 1996 750iL, 850Ci, 850Csi 12-cylinder engines.   Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Dodge 1996 Stealth, Stealth RT 3.0 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Mitsubishi 1996-97 3000 GT, 3000 GT Spider, 3000 GT VR-4, Diamante, Eclipse, Galant, Mighty Max, Mirage, Montero, Montero Sport 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.4, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Subaru 1996 Impreza, Legacy, SVX 1.8, 2.2, 2.5, 3.3 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Volvo 1996-97 960 2.5, 2.9 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Volvo 1996-97 850, 850R, 850Turbo 2.3, 2.4 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
    Volvo 1998 C70, S70, V70, S90, V90 2.3, 2.4, 2.9 Complete Inspection as prompted by the EIS.
       

    End Table 1a

     

     

    more fyi

    http://www.vcoa.org/forum/26-S70-V70--V70XC---1998-2000/731-monitor-readiness-problem-in-1998-v70

     

    UPDATE:

    That APPENDIX_J doc seems to have disappeared from the internets; if anyone has a link to a copy, please post it here and/or PM it to me.

    Here are some other links from that forum link above that may be as helpful though:
    OBD Readiness, EPA, Jan 2008 ;
    OBD Readiness, EPA, May 2011. ;
    OBD Readiness, EPA, June 2012. .

    The one from 2008 in particular is clear about the 96, 97, and 98 MY Volvo models that are (effectively) exempt; here's a snip from that doc:

     

    pg6OBD2.JPG

     

    Here's a Service Bulletin that also discusses the topic of "readiness monitors":

     

    VolvoSB2-23-0056.PDF

  4. Excellent work Matt!  Really appreciate vids like this that are, not only interesting, but instructional too.  I've always wanted to get a welder and learn how to, but haven't so far.  For me, and I'm sure lots of others, this is really good stuff.   I know nada about welding, but was concerned at first when you were going sleeve-less on your arms; glad to see you transitioned to sleeves in latter part of vid.  Any newbie welder should check out pages like this for their own safety: www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/welding/ppe.html

    Would be interested in a review of the helmet/shield that you got too.  Is that one of those where you can actually see through it, w/o an arc going?  Without that feature, I'd always be worried I'd start welding with my mask still up (because I need to see what I'm working on!).  :a-farmboy:

    Was also surprised about no mandrel bends either, but I'm assuming you can't get mandrels with angles even close to as tight as you have there.  Imagine you'd get a bit better flow w/mandrels, but likely not that much different.  At 3.5" diameter, don't think that should be too big of a concern..  :cool:

    :tup:

  5. 8 hours ago, tighe said:

    I honestly thought this place had finally bitten the dust...

    Wait, what?  VS was down?!  :tongue:

     

    15 hours ago, tuner4life said:

    -Module has been resoldiered

    Who did the re-solder?  I've had to do mine multiple times now.  You've got to clean off ALL the old solder first, or it will just break again (ask me how I know..  :blockhead: ).  Look at the solder joints with a magnifier; you'll see the cracks if you look carefully.   Or @Matty Moo could take care of you too: www.midwest-abs.com

  6. 5 hours ago, Simply Volvo said:

    The issue actually ended up being too big of a shunt resistor (resistor wired in parallel between the + and - leg of the VR sensor. The voltage was getting too high at high rpm and the decoding circuit would overload.

    I switched from a 10k to a 3.3k and it has solved the issue (atleast on the street). This will 1/3 the voltage.

    Seems a zener would be a more appropriate solution, no?  Thinking two zener diodes back to back (maybe a resistor in between) across the VR sensor leads?

  7. 15 hours ago, tuner4life said:

    But since the issue stopped later on after the car had thawed out, I agree that it was likely a frozen/Clogged PTC or PCV hose. Going to pull that apart this weekend and make sure it's cleaned out.

    Just ran across this old post of yours.  Your heater hose PCV didn't come back to bite you, did it?  :blockhead:

     

  8. 11 hours ago, tuner4life said:

    Compression test came back 155-160 on all cylinders.. That would point to the turbo right?

    The weird thing is that on the way home after work (it had warmed up to a balmy -9f), it didn't burn any oil or anything. Didn't smoke or lose a drop. And I even got into boost a couple times to see if it would act up.. Nothing.. I'm so confused. Is this just an early sign of turbo failure? Was ti just too cold for something to seal?

    Not following what you mean by "point to the turbo"?

    My first guess is that maybe ice clogged the PCV system and now it's melted since it was in-doors?  Just a WAG.. :rolleyes:

  9. On 12/26/2018 at 1:18 PM, Simply Volvo said:

    Well, it’s been quite a while but this thread and project has not been forgotten.

    I finished up my masters degree in computer science last week and am on a much needed vacation. If your curious you can read about my thesis here https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/ETD/Available/etd-121418-102453/ the link to the full write up is at the bottom.

    Starting work soon and will finally have 12/12 months of the year to work on this car instead of 3/12 like I’ve had for the past 5 years while I was working on my bachelors and masters.

    @Andzey I will respond to all of your questions in the next few days.

    ~Matt

    Congrats Matt!!

    Interested in reading your thesis in the near future when I get some time, and of course, always interested in your volvo related exploits!  :tup:

  10. 11 hours ago, German850R said:

    One of the best turbos for this application. Love mine, but am upgrading to EFR 7670 and a custom spaghettifold.

    Umm, we will need posts sir, or better yet, a build thread..   :cool:

  11. 3 hours ago, andyb5 said:

    It has been buffed and ceramic coated 😊 I’m thrilled with how the fresh paint and ceramic coating all turned out! 

    I’ll take some better (non-iPhone) pictures but heres a quick preview. 

    45603906672_78b68d9389_b.jpg

    The ceramic coating sheds water like it’s glass, and the way it has improved the depth and gloss is hard to capture in a photo, but it’s very noticeable in person. 

    Stop it, you're hurting my eyes!  Damn!  :tup:

  12. 6 hours ago, andyb5 said:

    Thanks!!

    In less than great news, one of my neighbors hit my rear bumper when he was parallel parking last night 

    42526721934_1dce1fbc79_b.jpg

    Hes gonna pay to fix it so I’m not mad. Plus, it kinda needed fresh paint anyways. My car will slowly get all new paint, 1 accident at a time 🤦‍♂️

    In slightly more exciting news, stopped by Semir’s ( @ds50r) shop to get my AC charged up and it feels so nice to have my air working again! 

    Faaaawwccckkk!!?  :wacko:

    Just tell the body shop you want a new bumper cover.  By the time they repair the scratches, prime, paint, clearcoat, etc.; it's about the same price as new from dealer.  At least that's what my body shop told me when this happened to my prior wagon.

    P.S. take that sticker off the back of your car that says, "HIT ME!"  :a-farmboy:

    Or does it say, "MAKE MY DAY.."  :happy:

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