zazzn

wow 4k posts, thats a LONG time of posting.. or pay for memebership hrm.

Actually yes they are hard as well. Like anything it takes practice.

Johann is So you are telling me a professional driver form team Titan couldn't cut a 1.8 60 foot on a s70 auto, with 250-260 WHP? Using some decent Z rated tires? You seem to be the standalone authority on EMS's yet your car is Sorry boys but your but

Reading your posts makes me feel mentally challenged. Find me an AEM provided base map for a 1jz-gte. Oh yeah none exist so keep guessing because your knowledge/technical ability shines though when you do. Eric, the truth is you don’t know and nor do I. Never say never, is something you should know by now as there is always someone out there that will prove you wrong. No one said anything about a stock car, 3” exhaust and intake will defiantly be needed. JC – You still don’t get it 60 foot times has nothing to do with having 500 WHP or 300WHP (to an extent). Traction, traction and traction has to do with that. Volvo owners don’t cut good times because they don’t have the proper tools to do so. Automatics, drag suspension, and MT drags will all optimize ¼ times. So saying that 13’s on 97MPH can’t be done is a lie. Bash dynojets all you want, I didn’t create them I merely use them to provide me with factual data results.

It's ok you don't understand why it works maybe you never will. Yes waste your money on a chip, I’ll race you after you install it and we'll see who’s faster. Of course it has no merit here, because you say so. An engine is an air pump the same principals apply form one application to another, but you already knew that. Are we ready to add useful information to this tread keyboard warrior? Eric, I have "been there and done that" my volvo has been running with the wastegate line disconnected for the last year with NO PROBLEMS! It doesn't get anymore real then that. I’ll say it again 13's IS possible with a 97mph trap. If you can’t cut the 60 foot it’s not the cars fault but the driver. I'll admit I haven't cut a 1.8 so far, I’ve only been to the track once with bald tires that i was wasting before I purchased my new snows. I know many people on wide variety of cars that cut 1.8's on radials. The people who will ET the best are always autos. 102MPH trap on a 3500LBS car is VERY close to 300WHP if not over that and you should know that. Dyna packs read 15-20% lower then DynoJets, Manuals make more power then autos and this is all common knowledge. Now you are telling me that for an extra 5 PSI of boost you will not gain 35-50 WHP? For all that time money and energy tuning I don’t see how they paid any dividends over my tuning ability so stop bashing it. You have more MPH simply because you are a 5 spd. As a moderator of another internet forum I must say it’s sad that personal attacks made by other members on me have not been delt with. I request that someone here discredit the infomation I have provided with PROOF and reasons WHY they won't work and where I have led someone astray. As a side note Johann I hardly call this bolt ons. Call me when you have tuned an AEM EMS your self.

Eric why are you arguing with me only to agree in some way? So again to recap 97MPH is a 13 sec E/T with traction. (especially with an auto boosting off the line) We aren't talking -about driving skill simply ET and MPH. -Someone aperently did 297WHP on the 16T already. I'm mean guys I know you are friends why not stop defending your friend for a second and really think about what I'm saying. I never set out to bash attack or belittle someone, instead I was the target of the flames as usual because I'm trying to share VALID points with new people to the board. Like it or not all the facts that I have stated are true, I'm have not lied to anyone and I've done this all form good will to try to help others. I gave warnings and tried to explain how and why my theories work. I dare you to post this whole thread on other car websites and see the type of responses you get. I like my volvo but I will never take it to the level of my supra, but that won't stop me form helping someone that wants to get to that level. I realize it's NOT the best platform for big power but it is the best platform to meet my needs as a DD. Power, space, reliablity, conforts and finally cost

So basically what you are saying Eric is that the ecu is pulling timing? Ok thanks for agreeing!! :ph34r:

You know Eric it, you are one of the people who I actually respect on this forum because you make INTELLGENT posts. However I disagree with you on some points here. -I have a problem with the Volvo community recommending and ECU upgrade which is not needed (unnecessary money spent for anyone who has a little DIY in them) -My Volvo is my DD hence why I do not heavily mod it. -97MPH IS good for a 13 second trap 1.8 60 foot and it would probably be a 13.7 (I had 2.4 60 foot) -Just because it’s a supra doesn’t mean general rules don’t apply over platforms. -Joseph could well have made power up to that point but it doesn’t change the fact that he hasn’t contributed anything useful in his last slew of posts. -No one is saying I’m a know it all, I AM SAYING that 300WHP IS possible on a 16T, however, in a attempt to BACK UP MY CLAIMS I simply get bashed. I think people need to step back here and think of what others are doing in terms of performance upgrades. by the way My AC does work and I’m very glad for that, and no sadly it doesn’t on my supra. If someone could post intelligently on WHY my methods wouldn’t work maybe I could accept that however, I’ve followed this method on other cars with pleasing results. If it was such a bad thing my car should have blown up years ago but she’s still boosting and getting me form a to b reliably and that’s what counts. Last point... Someone has already made close to 300WHP aperently on a 16T so i'll end it on that note.

Is it still making power? Isnt' that the goal even if it pulls timing? Yes I can physically feel power loss if I drive on 91. Hence why I use 94, it stock ecu's will ALWAYS pull timing when boost gets high, afterall it's not expecting or programmed for the change. You can poke holes in my credibility all you want. I know that I've got dyno sheets showing 244WHP and time slips in the low 14's with a MPH good for 13's all done at a fraction of the cost it's taken you. My engine has 248000KM on it, and my turbo is original. So poke away, I know I haven't blown any t5 engines, I know that I'm faster then may of the people on this board and I also know I spent LESS then 1000$ doing it. by the way if 500WHP is so easy on a 1jz making 300 on a Volvo should be a walk in the park and guess what IT IS! You can bash me all you like the fact of the matter is I'VE MADE POWER MY SELF and YOU HAVE NOT. Grow up and act like a moderator, OPEN your eyes to new ideas and LEARN instead of thinking you are king SHIZ.

Spoken again form someone who’s obviously jealous. Making accusations, with NO proof to validate his bogus claims. Maybe because you say I should buy I chip I should? Any car with high boost will PULL timing, it’s a fact of life. If you want MORE timing ADD better FUEL. Now for some FACTS a 1jz with stock twins will make NO more then 350-380 WHP without the addition of cams and lots of engine goodies. Again you add NOTHING CONSTRUCTIVE to this topic only ignorance. No wonder Volvo owners are in the dark ages when it comes to power production… Nothing but kids here to bash. I remember when buddy was making low 13 second passes on his LPT and everyone instantly bashed him. You are a sorry excuse for an enthusiast.

Your sad shot to at putting me down is patetic, NOT only have you NOT provided ANY good infomation to the thread but you bash me directly. You probably haven't even hit the same level of performance that my volvo is doing let alone make 523 WHP. YES my 523WHP supra was all created BY MY 2 HANDS, from tuning, to part select, to installation. Grow up, and post something constructive, I SPEAK FORM EXPERIANCE. You are a LARGE reason why no one want's to even bother posting to help. Lextildeath, i'm sure it had nothing to do with the boost being at 22 PSI. I'm sure you either detonated (especially if you where running pump gas) or you went too lean. I have a feeling you detonated because if you go too lean on good fuel usual you just melt something. In this case you took out the a rod which in tern took out your head which causes me to believe you detonated. Anytime you are doing ANY boost modifications you should have the proper tools to know if you are going to cause damage. A wideband/EGT is highly recommended, however, a dyno session can be just as useful. Every car responds differently. 21 PSI on my car may not work the same as 21 on your car. All i'm saying is blame the tune now the motor.

More pain then it's worth to put an external wg and weld up the stock internal.... might as well just get a new turbo if you gonna spend all tha tmoney to modify all that crap. Well EBC's are great the it's two fold to make this work, you have to stop the surging by allowing the wg to open via ebc / MBC and you have to hold the boost via not allowing the wg to open. JCviggen, no one said it's good, but i've heard the same story you tell time and time again form people over and over. Many people love to regurgatate this story over and over but never want to test on their own car. If I didn't adjust my rod I wouldn' tmake more then 13 PSI to redline. Currently i make 15 to redline and spike 20 because I don't have a EBC or a MBC for that fact.. I just simply have the WG line pulled right off. I've been driving my car like this for 1 year.... Before, you say it... Yes it's been to the dyno and it's 10:1 on the dyno so yes there is plenty of fuel... Exactly like I preeched before... You'll hit fuel cut before you run out of fuel... (I did when I hit 22 psi one day fooling with the rod) by the way just because it's off the compressor map doesn't mean it's not making power, simply JUST less power, and not all comrpessor maps are valid. Take for example the Garrett GT35R people are making 600AWHP but yet they claim it can barely do 500 crank. I'm not saying anyone has to follow what I have done, no one has to listen. All I know is, many people would rather you buy their expensive snake oil when you coudl simply achieve the same setup if you had a little know how.

Personally, i believe the volvo crew on this board have limited exposure to tuning. Due to the advent of the ECM flash they simply buy a chip and what ever that chip gives them thats they are happy with. I perosnally believe the 16T could make 300 WHP. I made 244 though an AUTO with an already heatsoked engine and that was only 12-13 PSI by redline. The key here is to get the 16T to HOLD 20 PSI to redline, and the only way you can do this is not though some fancy boost control although an EBC will help steady the boost and help bulid boost faster. The way to hold boost on a small turbo like this is to physically make the flapper of the wastegate not able to open more then a set amount. What happends is there will be so much back pressure in the manifold trying to get pass the turbo that it will physically FORCE open the wastegate. Once it does this it bleeds off boost until it gets to a point where it takes the same pressure to go out the WG as the turbine wheel. Why boost continues to drop off to redline is becuase the more you rev the more air you pump though the engine. EBC is good to stop the boost from overboosting downlow because adjusting the rod will screw up low boost so you need a boost controller to control boost downlow and the rod to handle up top. Basically if you close the rod on the WG you FORCE the manifold pressure to rise but you also force more air though the turbine = more boost. I've done this sucessfully on mk3 supras and where the previous though of 290-300 WHP on the stock turbo was the max guys are now pumping 350+ whp....

I'd rather have a huge compressor and a tiny exhaust to povide a good low end high revs is not what the 5cyl engine is about. So you limit your top end... I'd rather have my power fall off just before redline then peak just before reline and carry on pass redline. Sounds like you may have compressor surge, if the compressor is too big and the engine cannot ingest all that flow because the exhaust wheel is too small you'll get compressor surge. Eaither that or it's fuel cut.