Blockpartie

There are multiple reasons for why Volvo did things in such a way. It's unreasonable to expect a design that had to take into account multiple constraints - price, weight, packaging, production feasibility and volume - to work well when subjected to conditions outside of the design parameters. What adavantage is to be had by welding the freewheeling unit solid? Will changes be made to the braking system to account for the modification?

On very slippery surfaces it does not surprise me that you can get no ABS action but lock up the wheels. Design limitations and such. Clearly the easiest course of action would be to read the codes. In lieu of that there are a few more things that can be checked. As the system randomly turns on when turning there might be something wrong with the wiring for the front sensors. While the sensor(s) l/r can be fine, the plug or wires to the plug can fail. Or one of the tone rings has an issue. I have seen them crack from corrosion, miss teeth or not sit properly on the axle(s).

The ABS is part of how the braking system was designed so removal would be ill advised. Beside providing ABS functionality the unit also handles the EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) so you'd worsen the cars braking capabilities. Does the ABS not work at all or does it engage every single time you brake? You have a speedometer output so the system hasn't failed entirely. An age related failure point besides cold solder joints in the control unit is the main connector and related wiring. If any of the pins in the big connector are corroded / misaligned / have insufficient contact it will cause issues. Same of the connector itself does not seat properly - either not locking into position or not enough mounting pressure. Wiring to the pump unit itself can also fail in non obvious ways, for example the wire(s) may look fine but will fall apart once touched.

The new Volvo engines - done first by Geely. Uh oh. B3154T = JLH-3G15TD = TX5 range extender And that KC2 looks a lot like SPA...

f-you bucket says (direct quote): "We have listened to you, and significantly lowered the price of the Photobucket plan offerings. For a limited time all of your 3rd Party Hosted Images have been restored." What a surprise that their new business direction didn't turn out as well as they had hoped.

The rear seat back catch was not covered in plastic when new. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the metal part attached to the body of the car. There will be a rubber 'cover' slipped onto the catch that sits between the base of the catch and the plastic cover panel, presumably to prevent direct contact (e.g. noise) and also act as a spacer. The rear seat back latch isn't covered in plastic either BUT there is a small rubber / rubbery type ...thing in the latch that is used as an endstop. Presumably it also prevents rattles because it prohibits front to back movement when the latch is engaged. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the latching part attached to the seat back itself. Over time and through environmental conditions this thing gets compressed, becomes crumbly and fails. When new the colour is a dark orange. Part itself is only available together with a new latch so use a suitable replacement. Another reason for rattles can be a failed centre pivot bushing. Both sides of the rear seat share a common pivot point. The 2/3 or passenger side (if LHD) rear seat back has a metal spike going through the pivot point where it's supposed to be 'resting' on a plastic bushing. No bushing -> noise.

Aww... that sucks. Is the puddle under the car the result of two drips or did you determine it has to be leaking on both sides due to the size of the puddle? I too suffered a leak and noticed it only when I came back to a small puddle. A closer look revealed the issue to be with the feed line connection near the fuel filter. I had some trouble pinpointing the leak as the fuel had been blown all over the rear axle and exhaust during driving. Reseated it and it was fine. Ofcourse a short while later the actual metal line failed... Point is: Maybe the connector wasn't seated 100% and loosed from the fuel pressure.

Congratulations on completing the project. It's great that you took the time to take pictures and generally share this experience with us. Best of luck with the car. May it bring joy to you for many years to come. About the ABS: Could be as simple as the big connector not making contact. Either because it's not locked in right, a terminal got damaged (bent / corrosion) or a broken wire. Damage to the pump wiring due to corrosion/aging of the insulation is also a possibility.

Drift cars tend to have a different set of issues compared to a street car. Like staying in one piece for an extended period of time... I do not doubt your abilities or experience. I question if it is wise to do all this work and than go "meh" on the last leg of the journey. This has nothing to do with overtightening clamps or cable ties. The standard clamps will dig into rubber hoses. The cable ties will rub through what they hold together. Wether this because a problem sooner or later is up for debate. A little wiggle room / slack is a good idea, as is additional protection from (obvious) potential issues. Did you find a new fuel filler hose? In late 2014 / early 2015 I was told the part was no longer available.

@tuner4life: All first generation C70 models (coupé and convertible) have 4 bolt control arms, as do all P80 AWD models (850, S70, V70) and all P80 cars equipped with a diesel engine (850, S70, V70). In those cases the model year does not matter. What kind of clamps are you using? It almost looks like the normal style with the punched through holes. I'd recommend changing these to smooth-type ones. A lot of the original hose clamps were supplied by ABA and are of the smooth, e.g. no punched through holes, type. They are more expensive but reduce stress in the contact area. They make a few different variants, with rolled over edge, stainless etc. but the original variant with blue top is more or less what was factory. Be careful as to not get fakes as those for some reason do exist. I'd also recommend rethinking the use of cable ties. Unless you used special ones with rounded edges and a smooth inside they will damage whatever they hold together over time. Vibrations, and as this is a car that's 100% guaranteed, will allow the cable tie to rub and slightly move around. As the cable tie is often made form a harder material, the longer this goes on the more the underlying material gets roughed up. At some point failure happens. Your pictures show slight bending of the fuel filler neck hose so that will be a likely failure point. Btw: That hose is no longer available...

Very neat. I wonder how much of this Volvo has preserved in their archives and what has been lost. So many strange and wonderful things they did in the '90s...

It's more a locker than a LSD. It was standard on all AWD models. Volvo was quite proud of their AWD system and made a video that explains how it works:

Engine is back together and working great. My worries about having made a mistake made me search for the source of a squeaking sound before I noticed it was the birds

I would have had both machined but it simply wasn't an option. After thinking about it with all the threads on here that show good outcomes despite not following Volvo's recommendations it will be fine. And yes, it requires an MLS gasket. Fingers crossed. Was given some very old chemical with plenty of warning labels on the can. Took most of the haze away after careful swiping with a fine towel and left a smooth surface. Volvo's instructions and new parts are garbage. Some of the replacement bolts I got are literally impossible to fit as they differ significantly from what was installed.

Before you reassemble compare all old bolts with the new replacements. Volvo has a habit of changing things, so the part "behind" the part number can change. Most of the time that is not an issue, like changing from a Torx head to a regular head. The other times it might compromise fitment. I've had the happen with bolts that from the factory had an integrated washer, but the replacements had seperate washer that had very little overlap with the bolt head.