Tzantushka1568908311

Wow. So the lesson learnt is never trust a mechanic who doesn't understand Volvos. - are you going to go back and complain that the job wasn't done right? Who knows what other creative ghetto engineering they have done... You can order the cross nut from ipd, Tasca, and most online Volvo parts stores. Just make sure you counterhold the strut shaft (Torx T50) whilst you tighten the cross nut and strut top nut.

Agree. Something doesn't look right there. I'll take a pic on the weekend and compare. It looks like the strut top washer (item #2) is screwed hard against the top of the strut bearing (item #5)

Can you take a picture? I hope they haven't forgotten any items in the exploded diagram - especially item #3

Will check for you in the morning. Ipd sells them - see: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/9074/120406-front-strut-lower-lock-nut-p2-s60-s80-v70-xc70?crumbs=P0,P9075 Edit: You are right. Oops. Looks like I had the incorrect part number. Have updated the first post. Should be: #10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4) - P/N 982870 (flange screw)

Looks great.

Sorry to hear that... Are you talking about the plastic cap that covers the nut? If yes, I mention that in the original post = Notes to VIDA instructions The plastic cap requires some persuasion, but it does fit on the larger top nut. With your current situation, could be two things: 1) upper strut hardware may be loose or not seated Such as the strut bearing, washer, cross nut etc. Check everything is seated and re-torque correctly with counter-hold 2) strut shaft or upper spring seat is kaput-ski Depends how much rotation the shaft went through... You will need to remove and inspect the strut to make sure.

Should be able to source the rears from RockAuto, FCP & your dealers... Will dig up some info on the rears.

Josh, Let me know your thoughts on the subframe inserts. I have poly LCA bushings (front & rear) and the subframe inserts and it's more 'crashier' than I expected. At a guess, I think the inserts would work well with stock LCA bushings - or- poly LCA bushings and no inserts.

Price from RockAuto has gone up! Have updated the original post for new readers.

Josh, That is coming along nicely! Perhaps you can save your pennies and get a set of the Atacama 'colored' seat leather from George. I reckon this will give you the look and offer better wear than the existing atacama. (or get the leather re-finished/dyed)

It starts off like that and ends up like this: My name is ihatespeedbumps and I am a R-aholic....

Er... yes. In the trade often referred to as 'bearing plates' or 'strut/shock absorber bearings'... But in the Volvo parts catalogue and they are called 'support plate'. Just watch out for that... Okey dokey... Could be a number of things. #1 on the suspect list are upper spring seats! These things are virtually 'consumeables' for this car Also check your lower control arms. They often exhibit a very deep rattling/rumbling sound. More info - here Sway bar end links typically exhibit a higher pitch rattling sound over bumps. Other areas to look at are your ball joints and inner/outer tie rod ends. Good luck with the diagnostics Trent

That's right. Torque to yield fasteners are single use only. BUT it's common for many shops to re-use them. That's where the loctite comes in handy. Personally, i wouldn't re-use these types of fasterners more than twice.

Your axle stands measure up similar to mine. 11" retracted & 18" extended. In reality how high the car is lifted is constrained by the floor jack. My 2 ton floor jack doesn't have the lift compared to the axle stands. I only used half the reach of the axle stands and access was fine. Shark, That's a bugger the parts didn't fit from Rock Auto. But glad everything went back together. With your dull rattle - have you checked the end-links and lower control arm bushes & ball joints?

Fellow R enthusiasts, Installing new front struts (shock absorbers) is well within a competent DIY mechanic in the driveway. If you have the right tools, take your time, and follow common sense when compressing the suspension spring – this is a very rewarding repair. I highly recommend purchasing all the parts beforehand, including new nuts & bolts. If your spring seats or strut bearings are doubtful, replace them. You’ll want to avoid doing this again to replace a low cost part. Part recommendations Common consensus is to stick to Volvo genuine parts or better. Avoid cheap parts. Here’s an exploded diagram that will help with purchasing parts and re-assembly. Shock absorbers Item #13 - you have two options for the S60R/V70R: 1) purchase the Volvo part which costs about US$500-$600+ ea. - P/N 30683703 2) purchase the Monroe part approx. US$290 from RockAuto - P/N C2501 Monroe is the OEM supplier for Volvo. Both parts fit perfectly and have the correct connector lead and include a new top nut. Always replace shocks in pairs. Nuts & bolts Highly recommended that you purchase new nuts & bolt hardware. The nuts are self-locking which deform on tightening. If you look closely at the nut you’ll see the threaded section is slightly oval. Plus, they’re only a few bucks each. #4 - Strut bearing to suspension turret nuts (x6) - P/N 985868 (flange lock nut) #10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4) - P/N 982870 (flange screw) #11 - Strut to steering knuckle bolts (x4) - P/N 985660 (flange lock nut) Other parts if you need them #2 – Strut top washer (x2) - P/N 30647969 #3 – Cross nut (x2) - P/N 31262068 (fitting) #5 - Strut bearing (x2) - P/N 30714968 (support plate) #6 - Spring seat (x2) (use the ipd HD or Volvo XC90 spring seats) - P/N 112831 (ipd) - P/N 30683637 (Volvo XC90) #8 – Bump stop washer (x2) - P/N 31201386 (stop washer) #7 - Bump stop (x2) - P/N 30760914 (helper spring) #9 - Dust boot (x2) - P/N 30666850 (protection bellows) #14 – Plastic ABS sensor lead bracket - P/N 8646203 (bracket) Planning your work Seeing as the V70R suspension is similar to the 850 and Gen 1 cars, there are plenty of resources on the web: - Guide from Swedespeed with some pics - I followed the instructions in VIDA as they’re proven & work very well. You can download the PDF at the end of this post. Tools you will need Trolley jack & axle stands13, 18, 19, 21 & 22 mm ring spanners (box wrench) and/or socketsT40 Torx bitT50 Torx bit10mm socket & extension (1/4” drive is best)Vernier calipersGood quality spring compressorTorque wrench Tools to make life easier: Impact wrenchBreaker bar with 18 or 21 mm socketHammerPunch 6 mm (or 1/4")Punch 2 mm (or old drill bit)Small screw driverStringPliers with wire cutterOld wire coat hanger‘G’ clamp3 x 2” block of wood about 17” long Optional specialty tools: Set of Allen keys (hex keys) – metric or imperial, doesn't matterLoctite (always good practice)18, 21 & 22 mm crow foot wrench (allows correct torqueing of counter held nuts) Notes to VIDA instructions Differences in strut top nuts Factory fitted struts may use 21 mm SEMS nuts (combined nut & washer). Monroe OEM struts come with 22 mm lock nuts and separate washers. Having the right sized crowfoot wrench ensure you can correctly torque the top nut whilst counterholding the shock absorber shaft. The plastic covers for the strut top nuts will fit over the 22 mm nuts, but persuasion with a hammer is required. Levering the Lower Control Arm (LCA) If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted you may find it difficult to re-install the spring strut assembly. You’ll need to lever the control arm down, whilst attaching the steering knuckle, and re-inserting the bolts at the same time! Work instructions Preparation Chock the rear wheel, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support the front sub-frame on axle stands. Remove: :: the road wheel (19 mm socket) :: the anti-roll bar link from the spring strut (18 mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) Remove: :: the ABS sensor wire from the spring strut and move aside - be careful not to break the plastic clip, you’ll re-use this later :: the ABS sensor (10 mm socket) - hang up the sensor using a piece of wire :: the position sensor [accelerometer] from the spring strut - undo the bolt (10 mm socket) and move the position sensor aside Measuring camber Measure the spring strut position in relation to the wheel knuckle [spindle] before removal Note! The measurements are taken so that the same camber angle can be obtained when installing. See the illustration in the VIDA instruction PDF Tip: You can use the vernier calipers here - or - use a small Allen key to measure the inside gap between the strut and steering knuckle (like a feeler gauge). When re-assembling, slip the same size Allen key into gap to set the approximate camber. Removing the spring strut Remove: :: both the nuts from the screws in the spring strut - (18 & 21 mm ring spanner and/or sockets & breaker bar) :: the two bolts securing the spring strut to steering knuckle - (you’ll need a hammer & punch to tap out the bolt) Tip: Place a thick cloth over the CV boot to prevent damage in case the strut drops down onto the CV boot. Otherwise cut the bottom off a plastic soda bottle and cut the soda bottle lengthways so you can clip the soda bottle over the axle and CV boot for protection. Secure the wheel spindle with a piece of wire (coat hanger) so that it cannot turn outwards when removed from the spring strut. Otherwise you may damage the axle CV joints. Disconnect the 4C connector :: Loosen the 4C connector by the suspension turrets and the lead from the clips. :: Pull down the connector lead to the wheel housing. Tip: LH & RH 4C strut connector location (when facing the engine bay) - 3rd connector from the top - look for two wires, brown & black Use a small screwdriver to push in the retaining clip on the 4C connector. To facilitate re-assembly of the 4C strut wires: - tie a piece of string to the strut bar - tie the other end of the string to 4C strut connector you just removed - when the connector lead is unclipped and falls to the ground untie the string on the connector - use the string to pull the new connector lead to the top the engine bay Removing the strut bar does improve access to the connectors, but removal is not necessary. Remove: :: the nuts that hold the shock absorber bearing in the suspension turret x 3 pcs - (13 mm socket) :: the spring strut assembly from the vehicle Tip: Loosen, but leave 1 x nut closest to the fender attached to the strut bearing. This will stop the strut falling down awkwardly. When you’re ready to remove the strut assembly from the vehicle reach up and remove the last 13 mm nut. Carefully manoeuvre the strut assembly out of the wheel well, taking care to avoid the CV boot, brake hoses, and sensor wires. Ensure the steering knuckle doesn't flop around. Spring strut disassembly :: Pry off the plastic cap from the top of the spring strut assembly Removing the strut bearing Secure the spring strut in a vise (or lay the spring strut assembly down on a clear & flat surface. Remove: - the nut for the shock absorber bearing (21 mm ring spanner & T50 Torx) - the washer - the strut bearing Removing the spring - Attach your spring compressors Tip: Only use good quality spring compressors Make sure the spring compressors are spaced at 180 degrees from each other Ensure the spring compressor thread is well lubricated Tighten the spring compressors evenly Having an impact wrench saves time, but a ratchet will do the job You have compressed the spring enough when: - you can move the spring seat - the spring has lifted off the shock absorber Remove: - the cross shaped fixing nut on the shock absorber (T50 Torx as a counter hold and hammer will undo the cross nut) - the rubber spring seat - the spring - the rubber bump stop and dust boot (gaiter) Check that the strut bearing plate, the spring seat, the rubber bump stop with boot are undamaged. Replace if necessary. Spring strut re-assembly Remove the ABS sensor cable clip from the old shock absorber. - note the ABS sensor cable clip is secured by 2 x expanding plastic rivets (image from Howards Volvo site) - carefully punch out the plastic center pins using the 2 mm punch - retain both plastic center pins - remove the cable clip from the old shock absorber and transfer to the new one - insert the plastic center pins and tap in until they are flush Tip: If you break the expanding plastic rivets, you can use pop rivets to fix the cable clip to the new strut Installing the spring Compress the new spring to a length of approx. 260 mm (if you've compressed the spring sufficiently for disassembly – you should be OK) Install: - the bump stop with the boot - the spring - the upper spring seat - the fixing nut [cross nut] - tighten the cross nut to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: Make sure the spring is seated correctly in the shock absorber and upper spring seat If you don’t have the special cross nut socket (e.g. ipd version) - apply Loctite to the cross nut - use the Torx T50 as a counter hold - tighten the nut securely using either; a small ring spanner, channel locks pipe wrench or even a few ‘love taps’ with a hammer If you have installed spring seat correctly and torqued the cross nut properly you won’t have to re-tighten the cross nut later on Installing the shock absorber bearing Install: - the strut bearing [support plate] - the washer - the top nut and tighten to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: To ensure the right torque, use a 22 mm crowfoot spanner on your torque wrench and Torx T50 as a counter hold Otherwise tighten with a 22 mm ring spanner and Torx T50 Re-installing the spring strut - Fit the spring strut in the suspension turret with new nuts x 3 pcs - Tighten to 25 Nm (19 ft.lbs) - Pull up the shock absorber’s connector lead in the engine compartment and plug in the connector by the suspension turret. (this is where the string comes in handy) Fit the 4C connector lead in the clips Install the spring strut on the stub axle. Use new bolts and new nuts. Tip: When re-installing the strut assembly, it’s easier to install, but don’t fully tighten, the 3 x nuts in the suspension turret – as this allows some wriggle room when installing the steering knuckle bolts. If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted (especially the rear LCA bushings) you may require extra force to lever the control arm down to make room for the strut. This can be challenging with one person. To make life easier: - Protect the CV boot with a thick cloth or plastic soda bottle - Using the G clamp, fix the piece of wood to the control arm as shown below - You can then use your foot to force the control arm down whilst connecting the steering knuckle to the strut - Jiggle the control arm and strut whilst inserting the bolts Adjust the spring strut and stub axle to the measured value. Note! Ensure that measurement is performed at same points as when removing. Tip: Tighten the strut bolts snugly, but do not fully tighten Use vernier callipers to check the measurement, or use the Allen key method Tighten the screws to 105 Nm (75 ft.lbs) and further angle tighten 60 degrees Final re-installation Install: :: the position sensor - the bolt for the position sensor (10mm socket) - tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) :: the anti-roll bar link to the spring strut - re-install the nut (18mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) - tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs) :: the ABS sensor - re-install the bolt (10mm socket) - tighten the ABS sensor bolt to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) Note! Ensure that the ABS sensor seat in the stub axle is absolutely clean. :: the road wheel - re-install the lug nuts (19 mm socket) - tighten to 140 Nm (103 ft.lbs) Lower the car to the ground and perform a SUM calibration. Also get a wheel alignment after SUM calibration. That’s it! If I can do it, so can you. Cheers, Trent Front Strut.pdf