MadeInJapan
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About MadeInJapan
- Birthday 02/26/1960
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Just bought an '07 S40 AWD 6speed Manual that is sweet- tons of upgrades mostly done by Heico as well as tuned turbo w/ Stage 1 kit. The car only had 67,000 miles and I couldn't pass it up. My son also bought an '07 V70 2.5T and is excited about that. His 850 died last week when it decided to spew its oil out of #5 intake valve on the highway so it's wasn't worth repairing.
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Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics
MadeInJapan replied to Volvo5.0's topic in Performance Modifications
Thanks Keaton- I'm just basically lazy and don't need the extra space plus my car is 240K and I do mostly city driving now- job and back and a little around town. At my age (55 next month), I'm not going for the 0-60 in 6 seconds anymore. LOL. I think I'll just remove the line from the solenoid and cap that spot on the vacuum tree and put duct tape around the inlet to the air box from the SAS pump and call it a day. That sounds simple enough! One day I'll need to fix the vacuum leak under the battery that is keeping my cruise control from working and I might find a reason for wanting more space down there. At that time I will probably work on deleting the whole thing. -
Sas (Air Pump) Delete....write-Up With Pics
MadeInJapan replied to Volvo5.0's topic in Performance Modifications
So, I did the delete last night on my '98 S70 T5 by soldering a diode between A32 and A37 (not A33 to A38 which almost got me to do it wrong from the YouTube video and I'd bet the reason for other's having codes now). The SAS pump had been screeching and I knew it would go soon. After the delete I also unplugged the power to the SAS pump Everything is working as described since the delete I am leaving the air pump as is. I have not pulled off any vacuum lines. My question is, is pulling off the hoses and capping them really necessary? I might get a smidgen more boost? What real benefit will that get me? The car should act as if it did when the air pump wasn't running right? I might get a smidgen more boost or is there something else? I have an IPD upgraded T5 ECU BTW.... You're input is appreciated- I'm trying not to over-think this thing as many have already done here. -
Here is the setting/adjustment for the wiper linkage (also known as the transmission or "frame") to make sure your wiper blades actually work if you forgot to mark the linkage arms when you replace your motor.
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Hey thanks for your comments! Sorry but I haven't been very active on the forums lately.
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Hello. I just want to say that I have observed your helpful postings over the past few years and appreciate them.
I am also interested in global education and currently getting an MA in rhet/comp. But my real passion is teaching & education.
Just wanted to say hey and thanks to an apparently fellow soul!
jeff honnold
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Full edit....why? Because I'm a member again... My member thanks you!
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+1 for you Tx Heat...I'm in your age group too....46 here. I won't go out and buy that $3000 bolt on kit either. My family's just normal people if you know what I mean. I have a teenager that costs money. We do have 2 Volvo's but that's because I can afford them if I do most of our maitenance myself. Upgrades happen slowly around here....but they do happen.
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Who Would Be Interested In A Qbm Endlink Group Buy?
MadeInJapan replied to Slater's topic in Member Announcements
Depending on the GB price, I'm interested in the P2 rear's now. Others are all HD ipd and replaced a few months ago so I'm good for now. As soon as those go I'll buy Slater's too even if the GB price is not in effect anymore. I'm talking about for both of our cars. -
GLT....I see the exhaust mod in your sig...so no ECU upgrade right? How many total miles? Can we see a pic of the fabbed cold air intake? May have a potential customer near me, but in TN....any ideas on shipping to TN?
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You could have a pinched line to the gauge. When I first installed mine it would do this. After I shut the car off and tapped on the side of the gauge it "zeroed up." I figured it was pinched and keeping some air in the line. So I took the gauge out of the pod and found that in attaching the pod, I had pinched the line. Got the line out of the way and clear and my problem was solved.
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I would suspect a sticking service or serpentine belt tensioner. The A/C sompressor coming on is just enough to make it move and clunk. You can see it at work, so have someone start the car and turn the A/C on as you watch the tensioner and see if you see it move abruptly.
