Oreo931

Love your drawings. This is cool.

Maybe a couple of ounces? Agreed.

The pics are still there. I don't have the time to rehost them. You can get around the photobucket block by installing a plugin on chrome. I use this one: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en Alternatively, you can view the entire album of dash repair pics here: http://s104.photobucket.com/user/iamawass/library/Dash Repair

They fucked up all of the writeups i posted on VS and other forums. I am pissed. It's going to take a long time for me to move everything over to flickr.

Inside joke. Many years ago I had the company that picked up this wagon, Rob's Towing, paint an R bumper for my yellow car. Josh had recommended the shop to me, and the office manager was this burly lady named Adourna. The shop ended up having to repaint the bumper a total of 3 times because each time the job wasn't done right. When I picked it up the first time, the bumper had cracks in the paint, so they repainted it a second time. Then, the paint started cracking like two weeks after I installed the bumper. So they repainted it a third time. A few months after that....you guessed it, the paint cracked again. I gave up at that point.

Yes. Then she walked into my garage and kicked the R bumper on my yellow, cracking the paint.

Parked in my garage :)

Can you believe Dave has 2 kids now? Crazy. I've got one too. I sold my wagon last week. Getting shipped to FL.

SOLD!!

Thanks all! Hope it goes to a Volvo enthusiast. Only listed on VS and SS right now until I take better pics.

Thanks! Just bought the new DD last night. 2014 VW Jetta GLI Edition 30.

For sale is my 1997 850R Wagon. White exterior, black interior, 145k miles. I am selling this car because I bought a new daily driver. If I did not already have an 850 T5R project car, I would be keeping this one given its rarity and condition. I am the second owner. I purchased the car from the original owner in 2013 with 104k miles. Clean carfax, no accidents. Carfax shows regular servicing at a local Volvo dealer from new until my ownership. The car was garaged by the original owner, and garaged for 90% of my ownership. The car is stock, aside from a strut bar and a few cosmetic upgrades (sidemarkers, e-code headlight lenses and turn signals, euro wide angle mirrors, HIDs, V70 tail lights, V70 3rd brake light, Pegs, T5-R steering wheel). The seats in the car are from a lower mileage 1998 V70R. I did a charcoal interior swap and prefer the V70R seats because they look cooler and are more comfortable IMO. All power and heated seat functions work as they should. Oil changed every 3k-4k miles with an OEM filter. Below is an extensive list of everything that has been done to the car since my ownership. All parts used are new OEM Volvo parts unless otherwise indicated. I maintain this car religiously. Of particular note, at 112k the PCV, timing belt, water pump and pulleys were replaced, and at 128k the valve stem seals and RMS were replaced by a Volvo master tech. The underside of the dashboard and mounting tabs are fully rebuilt and reinforced with fiberglass. See my writeup for more details: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171818-diy-850-dashboard-repair/. The dashboard is silent. This car is an extremely rare find in this color combination and condition. 850s are becoming extremely difficult to find with lower mileage and in good condition, and even more so for T5R/R models. The car is located in Wilmington, DE, 20 mins from the Philly international airport for non-local buyers. The price is $6,000.00. I'll take some updated pictures once I clean the car properly. Here are some older pics in the meantime: OEM Rear Spoiler (used) - 106k OEM Spoiler Mounting Kit - 106k OBX Strut Bar - 106k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 w/ OEM Filter - 107k OEM Sachs Front Struts (x2) - 110k OEM Spring Seats (x2) - 110k OEM Strut Mounts (x2) - 110k OEM Endlinks (x2) - 110k Bump Stops (x2) - 110k OEM Strut Bolts (x4) - 110k OEM Outer Tie Rod (right) - 110k Alignment, Tires Balanced - 110k 850 Euro Rails (used) - 110k OEM Euro Rail Trim Kit - 110k OEM Front Wiper Blade Kit - 110k DDM HID Kit 4500k - 110k E-code headlight lenses - 110k OEM PCV Kit - 112k OEM Timing Belt/Water Pump/Pulleys/Tensioner/Serp Belt - 112k OEM Lower Transmission Mount - 112k OEM Pegasus Wheels 17x8 (x4) - 112.2k General G-MAX AS-03 Tires 215/45/17 (+road hazard) (x4) - 112k OEM Oil Cooler Lines (upper + lower) - 113k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 113k OEM Lift Gate Striker (on bottom of latch) - 113k Replaced Interior Switch Bulbs - 113k V70 Rear Upper Tail Lights (used) - 115k Clear Sidemarkers - 115k OEM Motorsports Badge - 115k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 w/ OEM Filter - 116.7k Tires Rotated - 116.7k E-code turn signals (Depo) - 117k OEM E-code bulb holders (for turn signals) - 117k OEM Tailgate Struts (x2) - 117k V70 3rd Brake Light (used) - 117k V70 3rd Brake Light Relay (used) - 117k Sound deadening installed on all doors - 117k OEM Front Brake Hoses - 120k OEM Rear Brake Pads - 120k ATE Rear Brake Rotors - 120k Brake Fluid Flush - 120k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 120k Tires Rotated - 120k OEM Turn Signal Stalk - 120k Rear Armrest w/ Cupholders (used) - 123k Homelink Visor (used) - 123k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 123k OEM V70R Floor Mats - 124k OEM Inner Tie Rods (x2) - 124k OEM Outer Tie Rod (left) - 124k Alignment - 124k OEM Spark Plugs - 125k Bosch Fuel Filter - 125k Heater Core (new improved aftermarket) - 125k OEM Heater Core O-rings - 125k OEM Exhaust Hanger Hook (and repair kit) - 125k Dynomax SS Exhaust Tip 4" - 125k OEM Radiator - 126k OEM Rad Upper Hose - 126k OEM Rad Lower Hose - 126k OEM Thermostat - 126k OEM Thermostat Bolts - 126k OEM Coolant Temp Sensor - 126k OEM Reservoir Hose (Upper) - 126k Coolant Flush (Volvo Coolant) - 126k Tires Rotated - 127.5k OEM Distributor Cap - 127.7k OEM Distributor Rotor - 127.7k OEM Spark Plug Wires - 127.7k OEM Rear Cam Seal (behind cam sensor) - 127.7k Tki Motorsport - Engine Overhaul: 128.8k ---OEM Valve Seals ---OEM RMS ---OEM Lower Front Engine Mount (under crank) ---OEM Turbo Inlet Cooling Hose ---OEM Cam Seals (x4) ---Oil Change - OEM Oil and OEM Filter ---Transmission Oil Replaced OEM Fluid (7 qts) ---OEM Fuel Neck Clamps (upper and lower) ---Coolant Flush (Volvo Coolant) ---OEM Oil Pump Gasket Kit Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 131k OEM Front Brake Pads - 134k ATE Front Brake Rotors - 134k OEM Rear Brake Pads - 134k Brembo Rear Brake Rotors - 134k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 135k OEM Starter Motor - 137k OEM Front Wiper Blade Kit - 138.5k Oil Change - Castrol 10w30 + OEM Filter - 139k Tires Rotated - 139k Bosch O2 Sensor (front) - 140.5k OEM Battery - 141.5k Complete rebuild of dashboard and mounting tabs - 141.5k Auto-Down Passenger Window Relay - 141.5k ABS Module Rebuilt (Midwest ABS) - 141.7k Oil Change - Castrol 10w40 + OEM Filter - 142.5k OEM Euro Wide Angle Mirrors (used) - 144k OEM Control Arms (x2) - 144k Bosch Icon Wiper Blades - 145k

The 855R is my daily. I just want something newer to DD. I am still keeping my 95 850 T5-R. I plan to hold on to that car for a long, long time. I've owned it for 8+ years now. As far as staying away from boring, every day cars, I agree. That's why I am looking for a GLI. It's a jetta on steroids. Kind of like comparing an 850 n/a to an 850R. I thought about a C30, but it's just not practical with a newborn. I need to be able to carry a car seat + stroller. I also want something 2011 or newer, and the newer volvos are either out of my price range or too boring.

Free delivery!

I'm going to be selling my 855R soon. Tired of driving a 20 year old car every day. Buying a used 2012+ VW Jetta GLI as a replacement DD.

Nice! What porsche did those calipers come from? And did you make the brackets yourself?

you're a dike

Well shiiiiit. I see you're still living up to your member title.

Any basic fiberglass repair kit will work. Your local auto parts store should have them. Here's what I used: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Fiberglass-Resin-Repair-Quart/dp/B000BO7CVK?tag=viglink22560-20 I went through nearly two of the 7.2oz kits, so I would suggest buying the 28.8oz kit pictured below. You can also use carbon fiber cloth instead of the fiberglass mat if you want to be extra cool

94+ 850s should have the same dashboard structure and mounting points. The condition of a dash depends on a number of factors, such as the roads on which the car was driven, the condition and maintenance of suspension components, the climate/temperature where the car lived, whether the car was garaged, etc. These dashboards are actually quite easy to remove. There are four 10mm bolts on the firewall under the wiper cowl, and four t25 torx screws in the cabin. You'll also have to remove the steering wheel + airbag (two t30 torx, one 18mm bolt), steering wheel cover (four torx screws), and turn signal and wiper levers. If you want to remove it in pieces (which I recommend if you are removing for purposes of repair/reinforcement), then it takes a bit longer since you have to take off the dash pad. There are tons of write ups online showing how its done. For first timers, I would estimate 3-4 hours to remove everything. I can do it in much less time since I've had the "pleasure" of repairing so many of these. I think I pulled an entire dash from the junkyard in ~30 minutes. If you want to save the dash you are removing, I would suggest taking your time. You are working with plastic that's 20+ years old. It can be VERY brittle.

Lol. That's my parents' address. Good eye.

Over the years I’ve repaired and/or replaced at least 5 dashboards in 850s. I’ve used a number of repair techniques and by trial and error have found that only one type of repair is a permanent solution. This thread contains a discussion of the various repair methods and a short write up of the best solution: fiberglass. This write up can also be used for x70 dashboards since they are so similar to 850s. 850 dashboards suffer a huge design flaw – the mounting points. They are made out of plastic and due to age and wear and tear, they WILL deteriorate and break over time. Unless your 850 has been driven only on smooth roads for its lifetime, I guarantee you have at least some mounts that are broken. Unfortunately, when the mounts break, it puts more stress on the structure of the dash because the weight of the dash is no longer evenly distributed. The increased stress, coupled with driving on bumpy/poorly maintained roads, inevitably leads to cracking in various parts of the dash structure. Many with broken dash mounts will also have cracks in the long, black plastic piece at the top of the dash adjacent to the windshield. The long black plastic piece is attached to the structural parts of the dash, so when the structure cracks, so does that piece. Here’s a picture showing the stress cracks along the structure of the dash. You can bet there is cracking on the backside of the structure of the dash as well. More on that below. If you are repairing a used dashboard, you will very likely need to repair/reinforce more than just the mounts. You’ll need to address the structure as well. On a new dashboard, the structure is obviously intact, so you could probably get away with just reinforcing the mounts. But new dashboards are virtually impossible to find – we’re talking about 20+ year old parts here. Repair methods that do not work: -Metal strap method on dash mounts: there are many write-ups that show people reinforcing the mounts by attaching metal straps or other metal-based supports. The metal is attached to the structure of the dash with rivets, screws, etc. DO NOT DO THIS. This is the absolute worst thing you can do and it WILL ruin your dash over time. I have personally tried this repair method, and it resulted in a destroyed dashboard. The dash is quieter and more secure at first, but over time, it will break. The problem with this method is that when you drill/screw into the dash to attach the metal supports, you’re actually weakening the plastic structure of the dash. Over time, cracks WILL develop at the drilling/securing points, which will result in further cracking throughout the structure, and ultimately a ruined dash. In short, do not screw or drill into the plastic of dash. Example pics: AGAIN, DO NOT DO THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -Gluing/epoxying the dash mounts: this method will only work well if you have zero cracks in the structure of the dash. As mentioned, 99% of you are going to have at least some minor cracking around the dash structure. Reinforcing the mounts is only a band aid fix. The fact that the structure is impaired means it cannot properly support the weight of the dash, or the force of bumps in the road, and it will deteriorate over time. Your mounts will eventually crack off of the dashboard and you’ll be left with a dashboard that “floats” in the cabin, moving around and rattling like crazy. -JB Weld: I used this on one of my dashboards to reinforce the mounts AND structure. I applied liberal amounts of JB weld on the dash mounts and structure, basically anywhere that looked like it could crack. It has held up for several years now, but I am not confident enough to say that it’s a permanent fix. I’ve seen JB weld crack in other applications, so it’s not the best solution. Permanent solution: fiberglass. Use fiberglass to reinforce the dash mounts and the structure of the dash. In essence, you’re building a dash within a dash (queue inception). The first two pictures are not mine, but they provide a good bird’s eye view of the areas you want to reinforce. I’ve inserted red arrows showing some of the areas you want to reinforce on the top of the dash. On the underside of the dash with the mounting tabs, it’s self explanatory. The remaining pics are from my repair. The first group of pictures shows the condition of the dash when I got it. The tabs were broken off, there were holes in the back of the dash, etc. Obviously, before fiberglassing anything, you’ll need to attach the mounting tabs to the dash. I used super glue. My go-to superglue is Loctite super glue “professional.” It’s the absolute strongest and quickest drying glue I’ve worked with. It’s awesome stuff, but it’s extremely strong, and very easy to accidentally glue your fingers, clothing, etc, so be careful. Once the mounting tabs are in place and everything is dry, you can move on to the fiberglass. You’ll want to use coarse sandpaper to rough up the areas you intend to fiberglass. This promotes adhesion. I didn’t sand the mounting tabs though, as they were too delicate. As seen in the pics, in addition to fiberglassing the dash structure and around the mounting tabs, I fiberglassed the mounting tabs themselves. The fronts, the sides, and the bottoms. The result is an extremely strong tab that will outlast the car. However, once the resin sets you’ll have to sand down and smooth out the mounting tabs. A dremel with a sanding wheel attachment works well for this. You’ll have to drill a hole in each tab for where the bolt goes through since fiberglass now covers the hole. Once you’ve smoothed out the tabs, make sure you test-fit the screw brackets that slide on to the tabs. You want to make sure the brackets fit firmly and the screw holes of the brackets lines up with the holes of the mounting tabs. Other areas you should reinforce include all of the mounting points between the dashboard and upper dash pad. I did not use fiberglass on these areas due to the shape of the mounting point, and also because I was concerned about adding too much thickness. If the reinforcement on the mounting point is too thick, you will end up with a gap between the dashboard and upper dash pad. You could use JB weld or other epoxy, but I used a product called plast-aid. Available on amazon. It’s the best plastic repair product I’ve tried – and I’ve tried many different products. I also used plast-aid to repair the upper dash plastic piece by the windshield – more on that below. Pics of the repair: Now, this last part is optional. I tried to repair the upper plastic part of the dash that sits against the windshield. I used plast-aid, which worked awesome. It was a huge amount of work, and you have to be very careful because the plastic is so thin and delicate. Unfortunately, it ended up being a huge waste of time, but I’ll get to that in a bit. My goal was to repair all of the cracks and holes in the plastic and end up with a smooth part that looked new. I almost did it. You can see my progress in the pics. It was looking pretty good… Obviously, the first step is super gluing any pieces that cracked off Now to the bad part :( . I sprayed the plastic piece with a coat of black SEM interior paint. For some reason, the repaired portions of the plastic stood out like a sore thumb. My next idea was to try and cover up these imperfections with some textured paint. So I sanded the area down, and sprayed the plastic with some rustoleum black textured paint. As soon as the paint hit the plastic, I heard loud cracks, looked down, and saw that some of the thinner cracking I had repaired was now re-cracked!!! I don’t know if there was a chemical reaction between the paint and plast-aid, or if the cold aerosol spray reacted with the plastic, or what, but the point is, it cracked. At that point, I was completely fed up with the repair, and decided to give up and simply use the extra dash cover trim plate I had purchased in a VS group buy a while ago. Maybe the result would have been different if I hand-painted the piece, but I guess we won’t know unless someone else tries it. Thanks for looking.

In my experience, the recipient of the package has to pay an import fee/tax based on the value of the package. Usually when shipping or receiving over-seas packages, it's best to state that the item is a gift and provide a low value in order to keep the tax low.

So basically, if we do not have COP compatibility, the defloater can be disabled with an on/off switch. If we have COP compatibility, the defloater cannot be disabled without unplugging it from the IAC. If that's the case, I'd like my defloater to be COP compatible, just in case I decide to change things up in the future :)

What's the downside of having a switchable unit that works with COP? Just wondering why you don't make all of the units switchable by default