Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

[lookforjoe]

Getting the 15psi tune sorted out... problem with running with the Apexi turned off is this...

... boost spikes in every gear. So, now I need to turn it back on & adjust the duty cycle accordingly. I'll keep it at 15psi until the revised TT comes out.

[ozzimark]

Do you have any wastegates sitting around that have a lower base pressure setting, and will work with the 20G? I'm personally not a fan of running such a high pressure actuator, and think that something like 10psi would be much better suited for the final pressure levels you are looking for.

[lookforjoe]

Do you have any wastegates sitting around that have a lower base pressure setting, and will work with the 20G? I'm personally not a fan of running such a high pressure actuator, and think that something like 10psi would be much better suited for the final pressure levels you are looking for.

I have the original 10psi actuator. It's no good for 20psi, the actuator was too "soft" for the Apexi solenoid duty cycle to modulate properly.

[ozzimark]

I have the original 10psi actuator. It's no good for 20psi, the actuator was too "soft" for the Apexi solenoid duty cycle to modulate properly.

Aha. I should have known there was a legitimate reason you went up to such a stiff actuator No amount of messing with the gain or other settings fixed the issue?

[mdlimy]

so you are getting your entire tune setup correctly for 15psi before turning up the boost? what kind of horsepower does that yeild you? im assuming about 300...?

[lookforjoe]

Aha. I should have known there was a legitimate reason you went up to such a stiff actuator No amount of messing with the gain or other settings fixed the issue?

No. Even with the 15psi actuator, the Apexi boost duty cycle is only around 30% for 18psi. You can't set the feedback duty low enough to compensate for the weaker actuator.

[lookforjoe]

so you are getting your entire tune setup correctly for 15psi before turning up the boost? what kind of horsepower does that yeild you? im assuming about 300...?

Not really..... I'm doing it more so because TT Map Trace Record is not available yet, and Adam (and Kenny) suggested I try it in an earlier post to see what the timing does. I guess I may have to settle for somewhere about 20psi when it's all said & done, since I seem to get heavy timing pull once I get up to 23psi. Maybe it's just the crap 92-93 octane

Based on my 60-100 times, I doubt it's 300. I got 282WHP last summer @ around 17psi, so this has to be less.

[Captain Bondo]

Hopefully they fix TT so you can actually control the timing while running higher boost levels. You shouldn't be limited to 20psi on a system that is in theory freely adjustable.

That said, with everything set up right you should be able to do close to 350whp on 20psi. Over 300 for sure.

[klr142]

Supposedly there's going to be a way to see what the ignition timing is doing on this next revision(due in about a week). Nick's car on the dyno appears to have been detonating judging by the up and down nature of things, and on the second and third pulls(once warmed up) detonating hard enough to go rich and pull further timing. This was at ~15psi! And, the new plugs did solve the spark blow-out we were experiencing when the boost would rise to ~20+psi.

[JCviggen]

Hopefully they fix TT so you can actually control the timing while running higher boost levels.

TT lets you adjust the mapping. How ME 4.3/4.4 interprets that map is still the same as ever obviously and not a flaw as you suggest. Its still the Bosch ECU. There is no way to "force" the timing unless you want to disable knock control. If he's getting the timing pulled it's happening for a reason and that needs to be adressed first. Forcing the timing and melting a piston wouldn't do him much good at this point!

Edited March 30, 2010 by JCviggen

[Captain Bondo]

Kyle what do you mean appears to have been detonating? None of you guys at the dyno had any form of det cans? I always scratch my head when I hear about people doing dyno pulls without some type of det can setup. Most dyno shops have electronic ones you can clip to the block. Scary, man.

JC I know what you're saying, but with no way to actually log knock events or play with the knock sensing routines or get any feedback from the engine with respect to what it is doing to the map, it's hard to see what is happening.

The bottom line is the car is down on power to the sum of probably 100whp, and the logged timing and fuel values don't seem to correspond to those in the map, and there's no real indication as to why. That is a fault and should be fixed IMO otherwise the tune is by all accounts, useless. You can buy a too-rich, way under timed map off the shelf and put no time into it.

[JCviggen]

Well at least he can log timing, that's more than most of us can do I don't have a clue what timing is actually being used on my engine, but it flies regardless. Most cars are tuned without ever knowing the actual ignition advance values. People just go off what works with these older cars. Now when something should work, but doesn't, that's when it gets complicated and can take a while to find the culprit.

[klr142]

Kyle what do you mean appears to have been detonating? None of you guys at the dyno had any form of det cans? I always scratch my head when I hear about people doing dyno pulls without some type of det can setup. Most dyno shops have electronic ones you can clip to the block. Scary, man.

On the two latter pulls it dropped power sharply at one point and richened up at the same time, not because of the way we had it tuned. With the waviness of the graph the dyno operator mentioned that sign is usually indicative in his Mitsu and Subaru tuning world of detonation. I retarded timing a little bit but not very much and it made no difference. Then again, it was getting hotter. The fact that TT is relatively young and about to be revised further reduced our wanting to mess with it too much right now until we are better able to see what is actually going on and get some SOLID boost control.

JC I know what you're saying, but with no way to actually log knock events or play with the knock sensing routines or get any feedback from the engine with respect to what it is doing to the map, it's hard to see what is happening.

Seriously.

The bottom line is the car is down on power to the sum of probably 100whp, and the logged timing and fuel values don't seem to correspond to those in the map, and there's no real indication as to why. That is a fault and should be fixed IMO otherwise the tune is by all accounts, useless. You can buy a too-rich, way under timed map off the shelf and put no time into it.

See the bold above. Some of the tuning/smoothing out that I want to do happens in between adjustable bins. I haven't tried playing with moving the RPMs that the bins are at so that I have better resolution and less below idle speed, but that's one of the things that I want to try next.

Well at least he can log timing, that's more than most of us can do I don't have a clue what timing is actually being used on my engine, but it flies regardless. Most cars are tuned without ever knowing the actual ignition advance values. People just go off what works with these older cars. Now when something should work, but doesn't, that's when it gets complicated and can take a while to find the culprit.

So, your car makes power? Haha, what's your setup?

[Captain Bondo]

What were the numbers like on Nick's car? I am guessing less than what was hoped, given that no one has been terribly forthcoming with them?

I disagree that most cars are tuned without knowing the actual timing. Most tuning systems I know, be they standalones or chip tuners like Hondata, Crome, KPro, DSMlink, etc, allow you to actually command timing values. And any knock controls are adjustable or at the very least knock events can be datalogged with the software.

Hopefully this newer TT will allow datalogging as well - if the software can do a map trace it can essentially make a datalog, it's not a major addition in that sense.

[bum2kev]

See the bold above. Some of the tuning/smoothing out that I want to do happens in between adjustable bins. I haven't tried playing with moving the RPMs that the bins are at so that I have better resolution and less below idle speed, but that's one of the things that I want to try next.

So, your car makes power? Haha, what's your setup?

JC is running around 450hp

check out his links below his sig for youtube videos...its pretty insane how fast his car is.

ENGINE MODS (bolt-ons)

_______________________

- Garrett GT2871R T3 56trim .63 A/R turbine

- V-band 3" wastegate ATP

- Forge DV

- 3" compressor inlet pipe

- 3" MAF housing

- Big generic cone filter

- Siemens 630cc fuel injectors

- Walbro 255lph fuel pump

- Mazda RX7 style aftermarket V-mount intercooler

- "R" type exhaust manifold

- Apex'i AVC-R boost controller

- Turbo-tuner USB programmable ECU

- DIY 2.5" IC piping

- Ferrita 3" downpipe

- JT 3" exhaust

- UR underdrive pulley

ENGINE REBUILD

_________________

OEM Volvo OS1 pistons (not mahle)

LGspeed.se forged conrods

Glyco "sputter" conrod bearings

OEM volvo main bearings

Headwork (enlarged ports, enlarged valve seats, valve job)

N/A exhaust cam (5° advance)

OEM head bolts

Elring head gasket

OTHER

_______

AP Racing big brake kit w/ Pagid RS-15 pads

KW V2 coilovers

M56H 4.45 final w/ Quaife ATB LSD

Stripped interior, 2x Sparco pro 2000 seat

5 point harnass

17x8 Team Dynamics PR 1.2 w/ Toyo R888

Techedge wideband AFR

Solid shifter bushings

Poly control arm bushings

QBM endlinks

Edited March 30, 2010 by Hanks