fischmama Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Per Alldata they are different. I.E. 32F - 5740Ohm (99) vs 7300Ohm (98) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Reuse the 98 t-stat housing. It has a handing for the additional coolant jacket to run through the PCV. Dan was awesome and helped me do mine. Just need an NPT tap and fitting. Here is Dan being awesome : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Unfortunately I don't have a '98 housing. I would have just drilled my '96, but it had no real provision for it. Per Alldata they are different. I.E. 32F - 5740Ohm (99) vs 7300Ohm (98) Damn... I could find a thread adapter, but I doubt locally. Maybe I'll talk to my machinist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I flushed a mixture of MMO and Kerosene through the oil channels to try and remove any particulate matter that may have gotten in when the head was off. I left the drain plug open and just let it run through. Based on the before and after it seemed to work pretty well. 1st flush : 2nd flush (used clean liquid again): 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I'm just about to throw on my cam cover and was wondering if I was doing this right. I have the cams sitting on the head and am just going to put the cam on and use the Volvo clamps while I put all the 10mm valve cover bolts on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Yes, need to put on the sealer on the top of the head, or on the top cover, and be sure to put start up lube on the cam lobes and the lifters, don't want them galling because you turned it over without any oil on it. Also need the Volvo tool eventually to set the cams to the right position when you are ready to put in on the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 cams should be aligned like this for install I put the sealant on the head, and the assembly lube in the bearing surfaces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Well, looks like I fucked up. The intake cam was 180° out when I tightened the valve cover. There is no way to turn the cam back to the correct position without taking off the valve cover, is there? Is there a possibility that I bent a valve by tightening the cover with the intake cam 180° out? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 just turn the cam....it does rotate inside the head ya know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 (edited) But wouldn't that force down a valve, possibly one that I don't want down and end up bending it? EDIT: Alright I just turned the cam to the correct position. I wasn't really sure if I could turn the camshaft without pushing down the wrong valve. I didn't run into any resistance while turning it so I guess it'll be alright. Edited January 22, 2013 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 But wouldn't that force down a valve, possibly one that I don't want down and end up bending it? EDIT: Alright I just turned the cam to the correct position. I wasn't really sure if I could turn the camshaft without pushing down the wrong valve. I didn't run into any resistance while turning it so I guess it'll be alright. Just so you know for future reference, if you rotated the cam and felt a valve kiss the piston, rotate the cam back slightly and turn the crank slightly, you can keep "shuffling" them until you get the cam in the position you want, you wont hurt a valve by turning the motor over by hand, as long as you go slow and feel for resistance you will be ok, if you really want to be safe just pull the spark plugs then there is no guessing wheather you are feeling compression or a valve, but honestly its kinda hard to NOT know when a valve hits the piston. btw, make sure you install the cvvt hubs properly, per the manual. They can be a real pooper sometimes =p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 So..... did you install the forward cam seals from the back end of the cam to avoid removing the hubs from the cams? I don't see the seals in the pic you posted. The reason Volvo set the crank marker where it is for t/belt install, is that you cannot hit the pistons with the valves through any part of their rotation, it's not even close to TDC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I removed the hubs to put the seals on. I got it timed up and rotated the crank a few times and everything was gravy. Hopefully I can turn the key tonight... Good to know about the crank position. I wasn't really sure if turning the cam without the crank could inadvertently bend a valve, but I'm sure I didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Well I stayed up late in the hopes that I could turn the key tonight, but found I had a big coolant leak. When I got the new head the lower coolant bolt was bent and had bunged up the first part of the threads. I cleaned it up with a tap and thought it would be fine. However, when I put on the bolt with the head on the car the bolt stripped. This is probably one of the worst positioned bolts on the whole engine to re-tap. I honestly don't think I could drill and re-tap it with the head on the engine or with the engine in the car. So I figure I have 3 options (from easiest to hardest): 1. Put the bolt in with a little JB weld, tighten it as much as I can and let it harden. After about 5 hours go back and re-tighten the bolt and see if I can get some extra torque on it. 2. Try and put a helicoil in, although I've never used one so I'm not sure if I'd have to re-drill the hole. 3. Get a right angle drill bit and tap for a larger bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 What length bolt did you use? That hole is tapped really deep - it's also M7, I believe, just with an M6 head (10mm hex) - did you put an M6 bolt in by mistake ( you may realize why I am saying this...) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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