Tightmopedman9 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 They could be going bad I guess. I have never heard any detonation out of the 150+ pulls I've done so far. How did you confirm that they were bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 I also never felt any misfire or detonation, or backfire or anything, but would get CELs for misfire, changed everything, including going to magnicore wires. For my tune and mods the performance just wasn't there. I changed out the knock sensors, and it's an entirely different running car. Picked up 5 mpg, and performance is spectacular. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiss4aFrog Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Word, that does sound like an easy solution. Unfortunately, I don't think there are any hydraulic shops in my small town, at least there aren't any listed. Some, not all of the auto parts stores have the equipment to fabricate hoses. You can call a couple and see who the closest store is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 (edited) Some, not all of the auto parts stores have the equipment to fabricate hoses. You can call a couple and see who the closest store is. Jesus, it was 3 months ago that I was looking for fuel hoses, and since then I posted how I figured it all out. A little late to bat there, man... Edited March 8, 2013 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 I was abroad for 4 months and have just recently be reunited with my lovely car. I've been fiddling a bit and figured I'd give this thread a nice little update. I got rid of my knock HKS SSQV. The response time was crap and I was constantly getting backfires and compressor stall. I decided to go with a Synapse Synchronic full VTA. Thanks Gary! The response is practically immediate, but since it is VTA I still occasionally get backfires. I integrated a boost sensor into my ECU with the help of Tuner Pro. I also used the read 02 wires to run the linear output of my wideband to the ECU. A sample of the values I use to tune: I also added a 3.25" ID aluminum MAF to give me a bit more headroom in load calculation. I'm still working on my TCV; for some reason it wants to stay fully closed no matter how I configure it. Right now I'm running just off of the wastegate, but its not a problem since I'm pretty much out of headroom with my greens. At 15psi I'm close to 95% duty. I just ordered some 650cc remanned injectors; hopefully I can get them working well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Nice work! I'd recommend getting a larger air filter on that intake - the KN Xtreme series allow air in the nose as well as around the circumference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martijn_B Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Exact same that I was thinking, the airfilter looks a bit small. What is the ECU doing with the boost signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Yeah, I really need to do something about that airfilter. Since the reducer from the filter to the MAF is so short the airfilter flange sits about an inch from the face of the MAF. I'm sure that's giving me some wonky flow numbers. At the moment the ECU doesn't do anything with the boost sensor. It's just there to correlate to the rest of the parameters my ECU is logging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 If you want you can go with Kingsborne wires (identical to iPd wires), but they tend to fall apart after a while. Ask me how I know I know this was from Feb but I want to point out that Kingsbourne and IPD wires are not the same. I disected both, IPD uses a single strand, Kingsbourne uses a double strand. My IPD's did fall apart after awhile. Kingsbournes are holding up so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Yeah, I really need to do something about that airfilter. Since the reducer from the filter to the MAF is so short the airfilter flange sits about an inch from the face of the MAF. I'm sure that's giving me some wonky flow numbers. I've used this size K&N (RX-4730 & 4730XD) since I had the 20g... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 I would love to see some videos!! Thing must haul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Great thread, I wanna do something very similar on my 98 AWD with a 2002 LPT motor. Did you get the new fuel injectors in or get the TCV working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 (edited) Turns out the TCV was actually plugged into the wrong connector. Since I moved the battery the TCV connector was on the opposite side of where I expected it to be. Turns out I was plugged into the PCV plug The long and short of the injectors I got is that they're shit. They came from a company called TLF performance parts. The voltage latency values he provided me were way off, when I asked him if the numbers were correct he just sent me the same numbers. After complaining a few more times the sent another set of values that were even lower than the first - the opposite direction of what would have been right. I did some playing around with to get them to drive well, but even at 14.7 they felt rough. I did some research on the company and came up with a lot of very bad reviews, and very little good ones. I think this video sums it up pretty well: I'm going to go with the Siemens Deka IV 630cc injectors. Unfortunately, they aren't linear below 1.3ms, although I hear people have had success down to 1.1ms. This means that I'll have to set my minimum injection time to 1.1-1.3ms which won't be a problem at idle, but will give me a rich condition in ultra light load situations. Edited March 2, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) Haven't updated this in a while... Figured I'd add a short video. This is running low boost, 18psi, since I'm getting spark blowout at anything much higher. I'll be getting Volvo 850 OEM plugs, currently on some shite autolites. I'll be going out to the boonies to do some tuning and hopefully turn the boost up tomorrow. Edited February 15, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) I asked a Volvo mechanic friend to bring over some OEM plugs, unfortunately he brought me some N/A plugs. Since they were free I decided to test them out. They never broke up, but they were way too hot of a plug; I was getting massive amounts of knock just part way into all my WOT runs. I stopped by a local autoparts store and picked up some BRK7E NGK coppers. With initial plug gap of ~.034 I couldn't make it past 8psi without breakup. I lowered the gap to .025" and was able to run 20psi from 3800RPM to redline with no knock or blowout. Unfortunately, while changing my plugs I discovered my #4 plug was black. While the rest of the plugs looked like this: A quick dry compression test showed even compression across all the cylinders, and the car runs smooth. I can't tell if the black is from running too rich or oil. I went up to the mountains today and noticed a large amount of white oil smoke while coasting and off idle; car still ran smooth and strong. At this point I'm thinking it's a bad injector causing #4 to run rich and bad turbo seals causing the oil smoke. Or bad valve seals. Or a combination of all. Tomorrow I'll pull the NGKs and do a dry/wet compression test for a bit more information. I'll also switch the #4 injector to another cylinder and see if the black is related to fueling. Edited February 19, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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