Tightmopedman9 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I took a look at your log. I think you took too much fuel out of the VE map at midrange, your averaged AFR in some areas is 17. I think you need to add more fuel at the higher load areas; you don't go below 12AFR until after 6ms of load. I always figure that anything above 4ms of load means you want power, therefore anything above 4ms I have set to target ~12.5AFR. Lack of timing retard looks good, you could get more aggressive with your timing for sure. What is the problem with the hesitation? Is it only on throttle tip in? To me it seems you need to increase the values in your acceleration tables. Try a 15% bump in the 80C and 110C across the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Got the WBO2 hooked up & the formula set (thanks Matt) - so if the weather is accommodating, I will be able to send you a log to review tomorrow . Thanks again for all your help with everything! Could you expand on your exact Pinouts for wideband logging. Currently trying to get my AEM wideband connected, I tried using the stock harness and aem 0-5v analog output but maybe I should just go directly to the ecu pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I took a look at your log. I think you took too much fuel out of the VE map at midrange, your averaged AFR in some areas is 17. I think you need to add more fuel at the higher load areas; you don't go below 12AFR until after 6ms of load. I always figure that anything above 4ms of load means you want power, therefore anything above 4ms I have set to target ~12.5AFR. Lack of timing retard looks good, you could get more aggressive with your timing for sure. What is the problem with the hesitation? Is it only on throttle tip in? To me it seems you need to increase the values in your acceleration tables. Try a 15% bump in the 80C and 110C across the board.Thanks Aaron The hesitation is gone - none in those logs at all. Leaning out the VE map in the 4-8ms range fixed it (feb 02 post) When you say averaged AFR of 17 - I'm not clear how valid that is since any and all decel raises AFR to the ceiling.... I spent a fair bit lingering in the light/part throttle areas to see if I still got the over rich condition - it's better But still there. I have to look at the CSV log to see it. Judging from the soot under part load, it's still too rich, not lean, so maybe I either need to further tweak the formula or try to find and move the AEM controller ground to the common ECU ground. Can I set up other mapping tables that will focus on say mid to full load only? It would make it easier to evaluate with all the idle/cruise parts of the log removed. I haven't touched the accel tables at all so far - only the WOT settings. I found that since I hit 90-100% load at such light throttle (AWD weight and M66 gearing contributing here), the VE map needs to be as lean as possible. I'm also going to say that I think the readings are a tad lean under load - I'm going to need to do a log in logworks to compare , since the only difference between the two is that the signal ground in logworks is at the ECU ground point, along with all the other logging sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Could you expand on your exact Pinouts for wideband logging. Currently trying to get my AEM wideband connected, I tried using the stock harness and aem 0-5v analog output but maybe I should just go directly to the ecu pins.Once you have the AEM controller / gauge and the sensor installed, connect the white 0-5v wire to the brown wire at the rear O2 harness - I did it with a "t" in other words don't cut the rear o2 wire, just bare it and wrap & solder the white wire to it. Then you need the ADX (if the standard one doesn't have it) with the WB02 in the menu - edit ADX/ values/ AFR tab. I can link you to my ADX since it already has the formula (with adjustment) for variance due to ground circuit. I can add a screenshot later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
div4scpro Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I know this is late in the sequence of your project, but. Doing the oil pan and oil cooler upgrade to a 98 V70XC. It's already been converted to FWD, bevel gear removed, auto trans bell housing converted, etc. What year or models water distribution pipe would work best for the cooler conversion. Is the feed pipe pictured a modification necessary for the cooler or other mods you have done? If I need all the parts in addition to the water pipe is VIVA's kit the best option? I don't have the same savvy as you when it comes to knowing where to look for individual pieces. Any input appreciated Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I know this is late in the sequence of your project, but. Doing the oil pan and oil cooler upgrade to a 98 V70XC. It's already been converted to FWD, bevel gear removed, auto trans bell housing converted, etc. What year or models water distribution pipe would work best for the cooler conversion. Is the feed pipe pictured a modification necessary for the cooler or other mods you have done? If I need all the parts in addition to the water pipe is VIVA's kit the best option? I don't have the same savvy as you when it comes to knowing where to look for individual pieces. Any input appreciated Andy For converting a '98, you want to use the water pipes & related hoses from a 99-00, along with the oil pressure feed line to the turbo, since that has to clear the water pipe extension to the oil cooler. '00 pipe is better than '99, simply because the pipe is longer / hose is shorter, and therefore further away from the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 A formula would be appreciated. I've connected everything as you stated. Rear 02 set to 1. I previously cut my rear o2 wires so reattached and spliced into the black wire(following the connecter it corresponded with the brown wire are the harness). Kinda hard to solder unless i remove the intake tube. I'll give my wiring a once over again but it doesn't seem to be working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 A formula would be appreciated. I've connected everything as you stated. Rear 02 set to 1. I previously cut my rear o2 wires so reattached and spliced into the black wire(following the connecter it corresponded with the brown wire are the harness). Kinda hard to solder unless i remove the intake tube. I'll give my wiring a once over again but it doesn't seem to be working. The problem with using the O2 sensor connector is that they develop resistance problems over time. It would be better to splice into the engine harness side. I had to remove all the inlet side piping to access it outside in the cold weather, so I feel you on that issue... This is the amended formula Matt helped me with - the initial formula definitely scaled the AFR to display leaner than actual. It may still be off a little, but pretty close and you will be erring on the safe side if you tune with the values it provides. AEM UEGO WBO2 Formula: (((X* 0.0196078) - 0.2)*2) + 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Awesome that did the trick! I did change the 10 to 12 which got it closer but i think I'll have to adjust the formula a lot more as its .5 ish off. I'm sure some math would make it so we could all get spot on numbers but not my strong suit.. thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Awesome that did the trick! I did change the 10 to 12 which got it closer but i think I'll have to adjust the formula a lot more as its .5 ish off. I'm sure some math would make it so we could all get spot on numbers but not my strong suit.. thank you!! Don't think it's that far off with the formula applied. From the log I ran yesterday AFR's look pretty damn close to what I see on the WB gauge. If it's off, it's maybe .01-02, and that's erring to displaying on the lean side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Edit: getting TunerPro logging to initiate is clearly a black art - even if I connect the vag com then open TunerPro, then turn the key & click the communication arrow, it STILL is a crap shoot as to whether it will connect. Sometimes shutting down & restarting/reconnecting does the trick, but I'm trying to get logs from initial cold startup. Since it likes to flood related easily, I'm hesitant to say the least to do 3-4 cold restarts to get TunerPro/ logging under way. EDIT: Use Hexeditor to change 07D22-25 from '20 F0 01 22' to '00 00 00 00'. For permanent logging. Keep separate bin with standard values for OBDII connectivity. See Aaron's post Feb/08 Log from today in Logworks to compare AFR recorded values 2nd 3rd -4th pull, 3rd 4th shown in the excel sheet. Still too rich at WOT in 4th by almost a full point, and 1 degree of pull 5.9-6.4k in 3rd and from 5.5-6K in 4th - I had raised value to 13.5, and get that in lower gears, so I'll leave it be, since that drop is for less than 1.5sec, and 1 degree off requested is certainly nothing to worry about, IMO. Need to reset the idle ignition by coolant temp - the values I inserted do not help at all! EDIT: Reset previously altered Ign idle map, Ign angle map, added a few degrees to the baseline timing map, and rescaled the MAF an additional 2%. Cold start (7 hours since last start - 9:40pm, 18 degrees F) - much better - no stumble and no need to compensate with throttle angle to prevent stalling/flooding during warmup. Tunerpro wouldn't connect for logging when cranking, so no log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 needs more Vems hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Second the black magic connect, turn key, connect, fire up. Usually works but sometimes it just won't do it and you ened up looking weird starting and restarting..... I also found that if i idle for say over 5min it will just drop connection, pretty sure just hitting reconnect it comes back no problem. Is there a reason your STFT moves during WOT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I enable persistent logging in all my .bins. If I need OBDII I'll just reflash a .bin without logging enabled. This allows me to leave the laptop recording and kill the car, restart it and tunerpro will pick up logging from where it left off. Don't have to worry about when to connect either, running or not it will always start. Use a hex editor and set 7D22-7D25 to 00. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 I enable persistent logging in all my .bins. If I need OBDII I'll just reflash a .bin without logging enabled. This allows me to leave the laptop recording and kill the car, restart it and tunerpro will pick up logging from where it left off. Don't have to worry about when to connect either, running or not it will always start. Use a hex editor and set 7D22-7D25 to 00. Sounds like a plan - I'll give that a try. Second the black magic connect, turn key, connect, fire up. Usually works but sometimes it just won't do it and you ened up looking weird starting and restarting..... I also found that if i idle for say over 5min it will just drop connection, pretty sure just hitting reconnect it comes back no problem. Is there a reason your STFT moves during WOT? I have to presume STFT is still active under WOT - that's pulled from the ECU via OBDII when I run logworks. needs more Vems hehe Maybe. If I get over 500AWHP with M4.4, I'm not sure I'll bother with the learning curve of another EMS.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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