Simply Volvo Posted May 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 Continuing to push on through COVID... Got the FWD stuff out in the rear and finalized my angle gear case and got it out to manufacturing (received the first part last Friday) ... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Nice work! Looking really good so far. I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky, in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore. with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 On 5/6/2020 at 8:07 AM, lookforjoe said: Nice work! Looking really good so far. I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky, in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore. with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted June 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed... Edited June 5, 2020 by Simply Volvo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 5, 2020 Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted June 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said: That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter? Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds. Edited June 5, 2020 by Simply Volvo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Projects been a little slow waiting on parts, but still going!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 (edited) On 7/2/2020 at 8:21 AM, lookforjoe said: Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first! Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through. Edited July 3, 2020 by Simply Volvo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmdubya1198 Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Yeah, I'm gonna be sure to keep a closer eye on my HF 20 ton press from now on. That must have been scary! Wish I could find a face shield, but those are unobtainium these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Put the motor back together after a little refresh. Switched from ARP studs (which can cause the water jacket to crack and leak) to VW PD150 grade 12.9 head bolts. Volvo are 10.9 for reference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 On 6/5/2020 at 9:49 AM, Simply Volvo said: Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed... I’m a bit late to ask, but do the CV adapter flanges you designed for the rear diff accomplish the same thing as these flanges Ben sells? https://www.bneshop.com/collections/1995-1998-960-s90-v90/products/700-900-irs-mki-mkii-27-spline-axle-adapter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, andyb5 said: I’m a bit late to ask, but do the CV adapter flanges you designed for the rear diff accomplish the same thing as these flanges Ben sells? https://www.bneshop.com/collections/1995-1998-960-s90-v90/products/700-900-irs-mki-mkii-27-spline-axle-adapter Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site. Edited July 27, 2020 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 On 7/27/2020 at 4:11 PM, Simply Volvo said: Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site. Hmm, yeah that’s weird. Thanks for the explanation Matt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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