Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

I'm Mad As Hell And I Can't Take It Anymore!


red c70

Recommended Posts

OK, first off, 99c70 hpt auto with 94k miles. I am cautious to post this on VolvoSpeed because most of the people on this forum are more concerned with why I didn't spend 454,274 hours searching for my own answers so I'm relying on someone's kind advise. I have had my car in the shop for some misc preventative maint things: ie. Timing belt/water pump/shocks/struts/front O2 sensor/end links/fuel filter/tranny flush/oil change/fuel system cleaner.

Problem #1 I can't go anymore than 20 miles of hwy driving without the ABS and STC light coming on (which also disables my cruise control.) I'm told this is because of excessive heat causing the ABS to trip or the actual ABS module is going out which costs $1300 to replace or $349 for IPD to rebuild. When I went to get this replaced, the tech at the dealership didn't have the part on hand so I held off, because I need a car to get to work. It turns out, that he didn't even take my car for a spin to diagnose it and as I got the car back from the shop, I took my front right tire off to reset the brake caliper (which was causing excessive heat, thus tripping the abs module!) :angry:

Problem #2 It seems as if the hand of God is holding my car back. No matter where I go, the car doesn't seem as "loose" as it was a year ago. I fixed the stuck right caliper and know of nothing else that would "hold" the car up but wtf???!!! It can't be bearings because that would make a noise no?

Problem #3 I've cleaned the MAF and replaced the front O2 sensor and I'm still getting no better than 19mpg HWY. Any suggestions?

Problem #4 Well it's not a problem but 2 days after I got my car back from the shop, I'm coming home from work (17mile commute) when the transmission hose clip explodes leaving me bone dry and half way home.

I really would appreciate some advise so I can stop taking this pos to the shop every month and for the love of God, please don't tell me to go search through this site to find it.

Otherwise, this car is going to be ran into a freakin wall. Anybody wanna buy it? 8000 obo. (Oh wait, I can't put a feeler in this forum. damn!)

Thanks! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ABS moduals can be repaired it just broken soider, I can't remeber the name of the company I had do mine I was in West Palm Beach FL. Cost $70, there are other that do them, you send them your modual for a couple days... I was down there on vacation and had them do it while I waited...

And you can't drive more then 20 miles because you don't have curise control? :huh: Or you don't want too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1: There are a few guys on the forums here that will repair your ABS module for less that 100$

2: Could be a cause from #3; Just no power. also if its holding back, is it decelerating quickly? can you coast without any problems?

3: Could be a cause from #2 if some IS holding you back then this would cause you get get less MPG

4: its recommended that when you mess with the tranny clips and they are taken off that they are put back on along with something wrapped around them. clamp, zip tie etc.

bad MPG could be many things from Leaks in the turbo system to friction problems with your braking system/axles. Maybe a fellow VS member could help you out, im sure there are a lot of them out in your area.

someone else chime in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#1 Hmm well your ABS line should go to the wheel speed sensor on the wheel bearing hub, not the caliper.. Kinda weird how the abs module gets excessive heat... Where is the abs module in your car (not fimilar with C70s layouts).. If its the module (sounds like you know already) then I would go with IPD, and replace my self

#2 Have you replaced:

Plugs or Coils?

TCV? (Probaly Bad, do you have a boost guage?)

CBV?

Hows the Idle? If its ruff then maybe ETM Clean

#3 Probaly TCV or Vaccuum Leak, Getting good vacuum is the secret to MPG

Also simple checks like Tire Pressure, Oil level once a week can help with MPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ABS moduals can be repaired it just broken soider, I can't remeber the name of the company I had do mine I was in West Palm Beach FL. Cost $70, there are other that do them, you send them your modual for a couple days... I was down there on vacation and had them do it while I waited...

And you can't drive more then 20 miles because you don't have curise control? :huh: Or you don't want too?

I can't drive more than 20 miles because that's when the abs trips and it knocks out the cruise control. But at the same time I'm afraid to drive any further so the darn car doesn't just blow up. I have another car that I use for longer trips. trust me, I'd love to drive this thing for as long as possible but I feel like it's just starting to nickel and dime ya know?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#1 Hmm well your ABS line should go to the wheel speed sensor on the wheel bearing hub, not the caliper.. Kinda weird how the abs module gets excessive heat... Where is the abs module in your car (not fimilar with C70s layouts).. If its the module (sounds like you know already) then I would go with IPD, and replace my self

#2 Have you replaced:

Plugs or Coils?

TCV? (Probaly Bad, do you have a boost guage?)

CBV?

Hows the Idle? If its ruff then maybe ETM Clean

#3 Probaly TCV or Vaccuum Leak, Getting good vacuum is the secret to MPG

Also simple checks like Tire Pressure, Oil level once a week can help with MPG

Plugs were replaced last summer, car has no coil. As the the heat, the friction from the caliper grabbing causes it and the abs module is by the firewall near the brake fluid res. The manual said it'll trip from excessive wheel heat. It idles just fine and I just checked the tires and oil this morning.

BTW thanks for responding so fast! :) I really do appreciate your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plugs were replaced last summer, car has no coil. As the the heat, the friction from the caliper grabbing causes it and the abs module is by the firewall near the brake fluid res. The manual said it'll trip from excessive wheel heat. It idles just fine and I just checked the tires and oil this morning.

BTW thanks for responding so fast! :) I really do appreciate your help.

Sounds like a bad sensor on that wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't give up yet, especially since you've replaced so many regular maintanance parts. I feel your pain, drove my car maybe 200 miles from Feb to June because of one problem after another.

One thing I can add is I cleaned my MAF and it helped and the codes went away but one day I unplugged the MAF altogether and all of a sudden the car pulled like no other, replaced the MAF and it has been great ever since. Went from 20mpg back up to 25mpg as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't give up yet, especially since you've replaced so many regular maintanance parts. I feel your pain, drove my car maybe 200 miles from Feb to June because of one problem after another.

One thing I can add is I cleaned my MAF and it helped and the codes went away but one day I unplugged the MAF altogether and all of a sudden the car pulled like no other, replaced the MAF and it has been great ever since. Went from 20mpg back up to 25mpg as well.

Agreed. While cleaning the MAF is definitely a good quick fix, if you can afford to buy a new one when it starts giving you troubles, then just buy a new one. Won't have to worry about it for a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ABS module is a common weak point, they go bad because of heat in the engine bay, its 4" above the trany, mine would trip once a month, I'd get ABS and STC ligts on the dash, I'd have to shut the car off and restart it and it would be fine, then it finally went. When it completely died restarting the car didn't work. It is hooked up into the speedo and crusie control, if you remove the module, you have no speedo, ABS, STC and no crusie control. When its repaired all they do is resolder the crack conections. All you need is a T-5 torks socket to remove it and then send it out, you can drive the car without it, it won't "blow up" :rolleyes:. You just have to be careful not to slam on the brakes to hard or you flat spot your tires...

Low MPG could be a number of things, I'd start by changing your vaccum lines, then try your boost solenoid. I was getting low MPG and after replacing those 2 things it went back up a little...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plugs were replaced last summer, car has no coil. As the the heat, the friction from the caliper grabbing causes it and the abs module is by the firewall near the brake fluid res. The manual said it'll trip from excessive wheel heat. It idles just fine and I just checked the tires and oil this morning.

BTW thanks for responding so fast! :) I really do appreciate your help.

The car has coils above each spark plug. the originals are known to be weak, but i don't think that is your problem unless the car is hesitating and sputtering when accelerating. when i had my C i replaced 3 calipers in a year because they were sticking. this would definitely hold your car back and produce the poor fuel mileage. the easiest way to tell is after a decent drive, get out and feel the center of the wheels. they might be a little warm, but if they are hot, that caliper is bad. otherwise jack up each corner individually and try to rotate the tire. they should spin relatively freely. send your ABS module to Victor Rocha. removal is easy, and you can drive your car will the module is out, you just won't have ABS, cruise, or a speedometer. don't give up yet, just get everything sorted out and you will love the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ABS module is a common weak point, they go bad because of heat in the engine bay, its 4" above the trany, mine would trip once a month, I'd get ABS and STC ligts on the dash, I'd have to shut the car off and restart it and it would be fine, then it finally went. When it completely died restarting the car didn't work. It is hooked up into the speedo and crusie control, if you remove the module, you have no speedo, ABS, STC and no crusie control. When its repaired all they do is resolder the crack conections. All you need is a T-5 torks socket to remove it and then send it out, you can drive the car without it, it won't "blow up" :rolleyes:. You just have to be careful not to slam on the brakes to hard or you flat spot your tires...

Low MPG could be a number of things, I'd start by changing your vaccum lines, then try your boost solenoid. I was getting low MPG and after replacing those 2 things it went back up a little...

I think I'm going to send the module to this Victor guy. Everyone talks about how good he is but, what's his number? And you're sure I can drive without it in the car eh? I've been on IPD and FCPgroton and can't find any pricing on vac lines, can anyone give me a link or a ballpark idea? Also I know that my ETS/M? is still under warranty so I'll have the dealer re-flash that.

What is TCV?

Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...