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Motor Mount Nightmare


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Okay... So,

I removed all that need to come off. Took care of not to lift the engine too high while taking out the hydraulic mounts... I mean really took care not to hyper extend the axles. ( I knew this could happen, I didn't realize that my thought would become reality)

After reassembly of everything I moved the car 3 feet and heard SNAP!! Rolled it back in the garage and found this. The under Crank mount to be snapped and the CVD to be completely FUBAR!!! :angry:

Being so careful apparently didn't pay off this time. So I'm looking at a new axle, But.... How the heck do I take off the 36mm nut if the axle is free rotating.

Do I cut the nut? what about the Hub?

Do I try an impact gun? how do I hold the other side?

Help!!! Does anyone have some good advice where I can try and get this thing removed.

The other thing is... If i screw up the threads I don't know if Raxles will take it back for a core. I'm have to call Marty on Monday.

Sigh!!!

Pics of my unfortunate circumstances!!!! <_< <_<

brokenbitchwr8.jpg

takenutoffqo6.jpg

This was what was left of my rear mount. Talk about a leaky mess

fubargu1.jpg

Ideas on the nut removal?

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air tools

super bummer. do you think the motor was dropped back in a little crooked or something?

I don't know. For the life of me this shouldn't of happened. I'm pretty bent about the whole thing. I don't think I dropped it crooked. Everything lined up okay.

so air tools? how do I hold the other side?

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+1

Chock the wheels and /or have someone stand on the brakes. I went through an axle change yesterday working alone and I used an old steel wheel that had a large enough center to get the 36mm socket through - it won't go through the cap on my Persus wheels. Along with a 5' pipe and a 3/4" drive socket I got it to pop free.

It bent the crap out of the pipe.

...Lee

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The axle is splined where it goes through the hub - it can't spin. Just use impact or looong extension/breaker bar to break it free as suggested, then wail on the spindle to knock it out of the hub.

You will then need to unbolt the balljoint from the hub assy, you need to pull the hub outward once you get the replacement axle installed in the diff.

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Yes - the control arm needs to come loose but I removed the bolts from the frame through the bushings. I can't seem to remove the ball joint without destroying the rubber boot in the process. I did replace the bolts and nuts since they are angle tightened (My local stealership - frigging thieves - at Rick Hendrick Superior Volvo) only charged $28.00 for 4 bolts and 4 nuts. It was less than new control arms after I screwed up the ball joint though.

I am bummed about the URO mount. I put one on my son's N/A this spring and it looked to be of good quality and thus far it has held up well. They may go into the ScanTech category in my mind if others post similar failures.

...Lee

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Thanks Everyone,

Yea after last nights Fiasco, I couldn't think straight. Putting the tire on the ground and removing the hub insert and blowing off the nut like that worked like a charm. It took more time getting the air hose uncoiled than it did to remove the nut. DOH!!! :huh:

What really gets me BENT about it is, that the axle is only 5 months old! :o

All as I can figure is that I did raise the engine to high. That's the only possibility in this whole Fiasco. The rear mount didn't want to come out in one piece. <_< As you can see from the above picture.

Again thanks for smacking the Ideas across my way.

Cheers

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