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4v Preouts


BenW

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As a relative noob to the wicked world of clean 4 volt preouts I have to say. darn. NICE. :D

Headunit in last car was 2V and the front channels drove the mid and tweet from the front channel on the amp.

Now, with the addition of another amp, and 4V preouts, the difference is palpable. The fronts still drive the mid and tweet (HORN), but these are amped separately.

Some of you may know this already. But to me, barely turning the gains on an amp to get the sound out is a totally new experience. A nice one at that.

And the sound is soooo clean and honey sweet smooth.

If you dont have 4V preouts, run, fast, to the store and buy a HU with them. You will not be let down, IMO.

Oh yeah, and i build a 0.6ft^3 box this weekend for my IDQ10 sub. The sound is sweet and the box fits really nicely up into the rear seat. Not stealth but quick and easy. Took me about 3 hours to build complete.

I have the dimensioned drawings if anyone wants them.

HU- Sony CDX-C90 - One Brother Bing's Recomemdation. This is a NO-FRILLS cd player and AM/FM reciever. It dont play MP3s. It dont get XM. It dont even have an internal amp. But it does put out 4v of clean 20bit DA sound. I cant describe the difference in sound, but I can sure as heck hear it.

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Speakers - anything from 1000Hz up is covered by those funky looking horn things above the pedals.

And the mids -from about 700 or so down to around 100 or a little less is coverd by the ID 2ohm drivers in these custom lower door pods. The front end is getting about 125 watts per side. The horn getting only 25 and the mid getting 100

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and

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Sub. a dual voice coil IDQ10 in a sealed 0.6ft^3 box. Simple, to the point. It gets about 200 from the amp.

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NOW, obviously the system isnt done. Things left to do.

1. Deaden the car. This only means, to me, the front doors and the rear hatch. I wont be tearing the floor up to add 50 lbs of asphalt.

2. Finish the sub box. This means grill & covering of some sort. In the end it will just look like a carpetted box, with no speaker.

3. Finish or redo the doors. This means, either finish off the door pods or start from scratch on new door panels. I'd like to do the latter and eliminate the speaker opening up top. I think that this will improve the up front midbass somewhat.

4. Get a turbo pocket for below the radio. looks kinda ghetto now with nothing there.

So there you have it. Another post may detail the amp setup. Its too complicated to explain right now.

Take care.

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I nearly bought an eclipse unit with 8V preouts. THis does it for me tho.

To think that the way i had it set up b4 i had the factory voltage out. I think it's about 1V or something. I had to turn the gains on the amp nearly ALL the way up, and it STILL wasnt as loud or clear as it is now.

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Looks like you didn't get the answer you wanted from the "speaker wires" thread..

Aren't the wires supposed to invisible? :D  Just givin you crap Ben...  4V outputs are the truth!

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no doubt Kevin. But you bet you tweeter that when i redo the doors, the wires are getting hidden..

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My headunit has 2 4v and 1 2v.  The 2v has the label "Sub-W"  and you can turn it on and off from the function menu, but I leave the RCAs in the 4v because it sounds better.

That doesn't make sense. Even when 4v headunits first came out, there were 2 2v outputs and 1 4v labeled for the sub. I never heard of a manufacturer that had 4v outputs for the fronts with a 2v output for the sub. You would want the 4v output for the sub more than the fronts.

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