Cal3thousand Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 Going through VADIS for the head reinstall, I noticed that there is a section about lining up the crank before installation. It says to remove this "blind cover" near the starter, then sticking this tool in there and rotating the crank counter-clockwise until it stops.My question is, since I can't find the markings on the crank sprocket, can I stick like the end of a wrench in there to find the right timing spot? (The pulley mark does not line up with #1 10 deg BTDC)Anyone else know anything about this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 theres a small chip in the one gear of the crank its really freaking tiny . that lines up with the mark on the block then put your cams at the half moon postiions then position the gears on the cams to the M arrow positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 theres a small chip in the one gear of the crank its really freaking tiny . that lines up with the mark on the block then put your cams at the half moon postiions then position the gears on the cams to the M arrow positions.I'm guessing I just need a HUGE flashlight. Cuz I can't see the mark(s) on the sprocket. I guess I shoud eyeball the right area, then shove my head in there. Ughh.? about the cam M arrow position? not exactly sure what you are talking about. BTW, I left the cam sprockets on, if that's what you meant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 I'm guessing I just need a HUGE flashlight. Cuz I can't see the mark(s) on the sprocket. I guess I shoud eyeball the right area, then shove my head in there. Ughh.? about the cam M arrow position? not exactly sure what you are talking about. BTW, I left the cam sprockets on, if that's what you meant.yes there is a small small notch on one of the gears and eye ball that with the mark on the blockyes if the sprockets were left on then make sure your cams are half mood there opisits just not sure off the top of there head wich one is supposed to be and wich one is down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 yes there is a small small notch on one of the gears and eye ball that with the mark on the blockyes if the sprockets were left on then make sure your cams are half mood there opisits just not sure off the top of there head wich one is supposed to be and wich one is downI also heard that you have done the top part of the head without the spark plug pull downs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 I also heard that you have done the top part of the head without the spark plug pull downs? explain lol confused what you mean more then likey yes but not sure on your termonilgy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 explain lol confused what you mean more then likey yes but not sure on your termonilgyTo pull the valve cover down onto the bottom part of the head. I heard from Dave that you just screwed it right down, but did it evenly? I just want to avoid making more tools unless absolutely necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 To pull the valve cover down onto the bottom part of the head. I heard from Dave that you just screwed it right down, but did it evenly? I just want to avoid making more tools unless absolutely necessary.start on the inside and go 1/4 turns moving outwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 Really appreciate both of you guys answering my questions. It seems like you guys either always chime in or someone is telling me: "ask Justin, he's done it before" Anyways, I'm attacking this tonight and should be finished tomorrow (hopefully). I'll fill fluids sunday and let er rip.BTW, this machine shop guy told me that since I have the lifters soaking in oil, I should wait a day after installing them before firing off. He says that I could get choppy performance until they have settled or something? Does this sound like anything you've heard of? Or should I just bolt everything up and then start up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 :lol: anyhow just take your time screwing the cover down dont go balls to the walls on one go evenly on all of them . Also before you fire it off unplug the spark plug wire from the inginiton coil to the rotor and turn the engine over a few times to get oil up on the head . Also is this a new head or a used head ? and why did you take it off. A rebuilt / new head will be a bit noisey for a while . used heads should be pretty quite since they have already been broken in. new head when it starts up will should like a bad lifter lol for alittle but then will go away in few hundred miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 anyhow just take your time screwing the cover down dont go balls to the walls on one go evenly on all of them . Also before you fire it off unplug the spark plug wire from the inginiton coil to the rotor and turn the engine over a few times to get oil up on the head . Also is this a new head or a used head ? and why did you take it off. A rebuilt / new head will be a bit noisey for a while . used heads should be pretty quite since they have already been broken in. new head when it starts up will should like a bad lifter lol for alittle but then will go away in few hundred miles.rebuilt. water pump kicked the bucket and the belt came off. Good to know about the lifter noise. So, prime the engine with the coil wire removed. I should remove the fuel relay too?No need to "wait a day" for the lifters to "settle"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 rebuilt. water pump kicked the bucket and the belt came off. Good to know about the lifter noise. So, prime the engine with the coil wire removed. I should remove the fuel relay too?No need to "wait a day" for the lifters to "settle"?where did you get your head from ? you can I didnt its up to you all your doing is wasting fuel if you dont lol not sure where there going to settle ? you can hand turn it a few times to make sure everythings in place before turn it over with the starterits a 36 mm socket , I use that and a breaker bar to turn the car 2 full revalutions . just kind of safe gard incase a lifter is in a wrong spot or easy to tell if everythings in place if its not it wont turn the whole way lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 where did you get your head from ? you can I didnt its up to you all your doing is wasting fuel if you dont lol not sure where there going to settle ? you can hand turn it a few times to make sure everythings in place before turn it over with the starterits a 36 mm socket , I use that and a breaker bar to turn the car 2 full revalutions . just kind of safe gard incase a lifter is in a wrong spot or easy to tell if everythings in place if its not it wont turn the whole way lolI took my head off and sent it to a shop with the parts. Cleaned and painted everything I took off.and I have a 30mm open end wrench that I'm using. SLOW, but it works.Found the mark on the sprocket. Super tiny, but what I didn't notice before, seems like there's a casting on the other side that marks the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 This is on an 01 80 series but it's about the same ...there is a reference to the t-belt in the R&M section herehttp://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?s...20&start=20http://volvospeed.com/repairs.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 Hooked everything back up, primed the car and it FIRED UP!.... then it died.But that was just a leak at the fuel rail (loose bolt). Fixed the idle issue at the same time and now I'm driving again! Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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