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Trying To Remove A Driveshaft


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RE: a 1998 S70... Has anyone ever had trouble pushing/releasing the drive shaft from its spline? It's the passenger side halfshaft. I've removed the 36mm nut, tried tapping on the shaft with a hammer - no luck. I just tried a driveshaft/axle puller with my air gun - nothing. I've never had this much trouble getting one of these out before. I also sprayed penetrating oil (two-different types) as far in on the splines as I could.

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RE: a 1998 S70... Has anyone ever had trouble pushing/releasing the drive shaft from its spline? It's the passenger side halfshaft. I've removed the 36mm nut, tried tapping on the shaft with a hammer - no luck. I just tried a driveshaft/axle puller with my air gun - nothing. I've never had this much trouble getting one of these out before. I also sprayed penetrating oil (two-different types) as far in on the splines as I could.

Autozone loaner #27037, never failed me...

p9180129hb4.th.jpg

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Some of these axles can be really stubborn. I've destroyed more than one undersized press tool trying to get them out. Good thing there are warranties on those tools. If I'm not mistaken some axles in the x70 cars had loctite applied to the axle splines under warranty to eliminate a "ping" during acceleration. Get yourself a good press tool, as said below, get the loaner tool from autozone.

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1. Are you sure you disconnect the balljoint bolt/nut?

2. Spray the spline with WD-40 etc., let it sit for one hour. Re-install the 36-mm until it is flushed with the end of the shaft. Then hammer the nut. It should come out.

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Thanks for the input... The whole control arm is out of the underside, the block of wood isn't working - I even tried a 5 lb. sledge hammer. Screwing the 36mm nut back on and then hitting that with a hammer can easily damage the shaft's threads (don't ask me how I know), especially if you have to strike it with the force I have to. I also got the Auto Zone loaner tool and stripped the center bolt of its threads. This one definitely has loc-tite on it. I'm at wit's end (which is located in my garage).

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Thanks for the input... The whole control arm is out of the underside, the block of wood isn't working - I even tried a 5 lb. sledge hammer. Screwing the 36mm nut back on and then hitting that with a hammer can easily damage the shaft's threads (don't ask me how I know), especially if you have to strike it with the force I have to. I also got the Auto Zone loaner tool and stripped the center bolt of its threads. This one definitely has loc-tite on it. I'm at wit's end (which is located in my garage).

block of wood to protect the threads, hit it harder

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Re: Lock-Tite: this is one thing I never understands....this is NOT the place to apply lock-tite. Lock-tite is for other places. The axle spline: all you need is "anti-seize". It is the 36-mm NUT that holds it together, not lock-tite.

Yet mechanics still use locktite here for their cars!

Back to business:

- Make sure you spray both the OUER and INNER sides of the splines with WD-40.

- Use a bigger puller?

- In theory you can use a propane torch but I do NOT recommend it here because the heat will melt all the grease inside the wheel bearing.

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Re: Lock-Tite: this is one thing I never understands....this is NOT the place to apply lock-tite. Lock-tite is for other places. The axle spline: all you need is "anti-seize". It is the 36-mm NUT that holds it together, not lock-tite.

Yet mechanics still use locktite here for their cars!

It is volvo spec to use metal adhesive here on the splines, from the factory. I don't have VADIS but pretty sure it says to use metal adhesive on an axle change. The reason is because the splines may click or clunk upon accel or deceleration, but not if there is metal adhesive in there keeping the axle fixed to the hub. The clunk is due to rotational motion, the splines do not fit perfectly, does not matter how tight you make the axle nut (applies inward pressure will not stop rotational motion). So the reason mechanics do it, is because Volvo tells them to.

Don't get me wrong I used antiseize compound on my car, but this is why we run into this problem ...

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I use anti-seize (which is basically a grease) and get no clicking at all.

Remember the Splines are machined slightly larger than the hub for a tight fit.

So even with NOT Locktite, it will not be a problem.

Locktite is basically a metal adhesive used to prevent the bolt from working loose such as bolts in engine head etc.

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