Bazarvospeed Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Getting my plans together with doing the timing belt. Whatelse should I do while im at it? My list - The timing Belt , & tensioner. should i get the water pump replaced as well? whatelse? also I'm most likely going at this myself....anything I should be advised about other than keeping the lines ( intake & exhuast cams lined up ) .... what about the crank? I dont have any volvo tools , is any specifically needed? Also how do i get the belt off ? do i need to loosen the belt? on the write up its pretty much telling me that " finger work is required " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoodleKnight Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 How many miles are on the waterpump? If it's well over 120k you might want to replace it just to be on the safe side. No volvo tools are needed for t-belt replacing, the crank can be turned by a very large socket (can't remember the size off the top of my head, probably around 30mm or so). I used a super huge crescent wrench for this.It'll help to have a 3/4" drive breaker bar or socket wrench to remove the serp belt. That or you can use a 1/2" breaker bar and some pennies like I did:EDIT: Getting the serp belt off is easy, you just need to sort of maneuver it around once you get it loose. The timing belt is much harder, you need to remove a cover that shields the crank pulley (I think its 2x 10mm bolts) then you just need to push it about... there is a way out and it's not easy. Might help to remove the passenger side wheel and try doing the bottom part of the t-belt from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonutsDemise Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 30mm socket for the crank. I would replace the idler pulley, tensioner, and tensioner pulley as well as the water pump. what I do is I count the teeth between the two cam sprockets and also between the intake cam sprocket and the the crank pulley before the old belt is taken off and after the new belt is on. then hand crank it two complete revolutions to make sure everything is lined up still. get the auto hydraulic tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 How many miles on the motor?Serpentine belt, since you have to remove it anyway. T/belt idler if the mileage is up there... front seals if there's any sign of oil...I wouldn't do it without a cam locking tool, personally. I borrow one, not worth buying.The crank gear has notches in two teeth - you align the crank cover notch between these, You'll see them when you set the engine @ TDC.30mm socket for crank nut, you need to be able the turn the engine by hand at least 2 revolutions to check clearance/gear alignment and belt tension. Allen key (6mm?) to set the manual tensioner, if you have the manual version.EDIT: beat me to it... I wouldn't switch from the manual version, though - it's easy to set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonutsDemise Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 I wouldn't do it without a cam locking tool, personally. I borrow one, not worth buying.i didn't use one. the cams won't move if you don't push them. if you do move them and you used my counting method you can just move them back. and of course there are the marks on the cam sprockets, tb cover and the crank pulley and the a line where it should match up to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzyjeff Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 i didn't use one. the cams won't move if you don't push them. if you do move them and you used my counting method you can just move them back. and of course there are the marks on the cam sprockets, tb cover and the crank pulley and the a line where it should match up to.I did it without one too but it was a pain. The timing belt had worn a groove through the cover and took off the part that has the alignment marks (I'm lucky I heard the grinding noise or else I would have been FUBARed)... hahaha. And there wasnt a damn way for me to take off the old belt so I just cut it. (It was easier however getting the new belt put on.) I tried to line up everything as best I could. I didnt think the crank had moved so I put it all back together and cranked her up and the idle automatically went up to like 3k. So I shut it down and had to realign everything all over again. Then I was still off by a tooth so I had to do it again...hahaha It was a mess. But other than that, the job was really straight forward. I used the bay-13 write up and it helped a ton! I did the tensioner, pulley, belt and water pump. Car's been running great for almost 10k now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jippi 855 GLT Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Getting my plans together with doing the timing belt. Whatelse should I do while im at it? My list - The timing Belt , & tensioner. should i get the water pump replaced as well? whatelse? also I'm most likely going at this myself....anything I should be advised about other than keeping the lines ( intake & exhuast cams lined up ) .... what about the crank? I dont have any volvo tools , is any specifically needed? Also how do i get the belt off ? do i need to loosen the belt? on the write up its pretty much telling me that " finger work is required "is your cam seals leaking?? might want to replace those while you are there. water pump tensioner and idler pulley dealer pricing is pretty cheap. if you need help lmk. ive done it too many times.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 replace the cam seals its like 30 bucks in seals, then you wont have to take the timing belt off again when they do start leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 I wouldn't do it without a cam locking tool, personally. I borrow one, not worth buying.Would you mind sharing your reason for using one? I'm going to be doing this soon and have never changed one before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Would you mind sharing your reason for using one? I'm going to be doing this soon and have never changed one before.It takes the worry out of one of the cams moving when you force the belt back over them - it's usually tight (slack is on the exhaust side, since that's where the tensioner operates), and I don't like to do things over unnecessarily. It's true that the cams won't usually move, but they can shift a tooth when you're pulling the belt over. Basically piece of mind.Either way, you need to rotate the motor at least 2 revolutions to confirm your marks before starting the engine, unless you like living dangerously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 It takes the worry out of one of the cams moving when you force the belt back over them - it's usually tight (slack is on the exhaust side, since that's where the tensioner operates), and I don't like to do things over unnecessarily. It's true that the cams won't usually move, but they can shift a tooth when you're pulling the belt over. Basically piece of mind.Either way, you need to rotate the motor at least 2 revolutions to confirm your marks before starting the engine, unless you like living dangerously.+1More so if this is your 1st time.The bungee cord trick in Bay 13 write-up is a cool trick, you can do the couple of rotation as suggested WITHOUT releasing the pin of the tensioner (applies to auto-tensioner), taking the trial and error out the equation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jippi 855 GLT Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 +1More so if this is your 1st time.The bungee cord trick in Bay 13 write-up is a cool trick, you can do the couple of rotation as suggested WITHOUT releasing the pin of the tensioner (applies to auto-tensioner), taking the trial and error out the equation.i have a cam locker but yea i take the plugs out and check after rotating it 3-4 revs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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