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Earlier Boost With Me7 Lpt?


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Hello,

I have searched on this with no real success, so here goes. I have a 2000 S70 AWD, LPT of course, with 122k miles. All stock, except for boost gauge and K&N. Car has fresh silicone vacuum lines and brand new OEM TCV. My question is, does anyone else with an ME7 LPT car have a hard time getting into boost? Granted, if I punch it, it gets right to 6 psi or so and stays there. However, in normal driving, it will kick-down on a hill before any real boost is made. Boost also is erratic under part-throttle (fades if throttle is steady). I know 6 psi is a little low for this model, that doesn't really concern me anymore (I've been through all of the paces; even Lucky @ ipd is out of ideas). No DTC's or MIL. My main goal is to get early and steady boost; not really worried about maximum boost pressure. Car has plenty of power for me, I just hate seeing erratic readings on the gauge. I assume all intercooler hoses are good, as I have no fuel trim DTC's or lean codes (I know, I shouldn't assume :)). Any ideas? I considered the Delco TCV, but the concensus seemed to be that it isn't remarkably better than a new OEM, just a tired unit. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

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Have you checked the wastegate tension? My dad's 01 S60 T5 had a similar issue when he got it, although its a HPT model, the boost was quite erratic until we found that the wastegate was shot. Replaced it with a 19T actuator and the boost comes in strong and holds well.

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Have you checked the wastegate tension? My dad's 01 S60 T5 had a similar issue when he got it, although its a HPT model, the boost was quite erratic until we found that the wastegate was shot. Replaced it with a 19T actuator and the boost comes in strong and holds well.

Hello,

Thanks for the reply. You know, I've thought about that. How do you accurately check it? You may be on to something...

Thanks,

Joe

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You can check it a few ways.

1. Pull the pin that holds the wastegate rod to the flapper, then check the tension by giving it a few light pulls, if you can easily move the wastegate then i'd suggest replacing it. It should take a good amount of force to pull the arm.

2. Another way of checking would be to apply light pressure to the vac port on the wastegate. You can do this by attaching a bicycle pump with some type of low pressure gauge and giving it a few pumps, apply pressure until the arm fully opens and then wait and see if the pressure leaks and the arm moves back. If the diaphragm of the wastegate is damaged in any way, the arm will move back closed as pressure leaks. If the diaphragm holds the pressure, you may just need to adjust the tension by loosening the lock nut and turning the rod end a couple of threads tighter.

When tightening the wastegate tension, make sure that you don't tighten past the point of dropping the arm straight down onto the flapper, if you've got to force the arm back down onto the flapper, it's too tight. This should give you earlier boost.

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